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Showing posts with label USA - Cali (North). Show all posts
Showing posts with label USA - Cali (North). Show all posts
Saison - San Francisco, CA
Dinner - Saturday, March 1, 2014
Saison's new digs are quite a sight to behold. The space is lush and inviting, with dark wood tables spaced generously like at an old tippling room. Polished copper pans and walls of stainless steel are juxtaposed against furs and stacked cords of wood - at once refined and rustic.
This was our first visit to Saison in over a year, and also our first time at the new location (we had planned a visit in February 2013, but teething problems closed the restaurant at the last moment - we went to Coi instead). The complimentary pours of Krug remain, as does the two-tier tasting menu - tonight, we opted for the lengthier "Discovery" menu.
This was our first visit to Saison in over a year, and also our first time at the new location (we had planned a visit in February 2013, but teething problems closed the restaurant at the last moment - we went to Coi instead). The complimentary pours of Krug remain, as does the two-tier tasting menu - tonight, we opted for the lengthier "Discovery" menu.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Thursday, February 27, 2014
Four meals in 13 months - that's saying something. And the crew at Aubergine keeps picking up awards - indeed, during our most recent visit in November, Justin Cogley was in Germany receiving a Grand Chef award from Relais & Châteaux. I also said at that time that I did not foresee a return in the first half of 2014 - I'm very glad I was wrong.
Four meals in 13 months - that's saying something. And the crew at Aubergine keeps picking up awards - indeed, during our most recent visit in November, Justin Cogley was in Germany receiving a Grand Chef award from Relais & Châteaux. I also said at that time that I did not foresee a return in the first half of 2014 - I'm very glad I was wrong.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Sunday, November 17, 2013
When traveling, it's unusual for us to visit an out-of-town restaurant more than once within a short time span - there're just so many places to try. Yet, this is our third meal at Aubergine this year - a testament to the house that Justin Cogley and Ron Mendoza have built. On this night, we shared our meal with two others who had each come long distances to dine here. Over four hours, we ate our way through 25 courses - an evening that will not soon be forgotten.
When traveling, it's unusual for us to visit an out-of-town restaurant more than once within a short time span - there're just so many places to try. Yet, this is our third meal at Aubergine this year - a testament to the house that Justin Cogley and Ron Mendoza have built. On this night, we shared our meal with two others who had each come long distances to dine here. Over four hours, we ate our way through 25 courses - an evening that will not soon be forgotten.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Saturday, August 31, 2013
So much can change in six months. Since our meal in February, Justin Cogley (deservedly and expectedly) received one of Food & Wine's Best New Chef awards, putting Aubergine on the map for a whole new segment of diners. Naturally, national recognition brings increased pressure, but the entire restaurant seems to be holding its own, and more.
We had planned a drive along Highway 1 for the Labor Day weekend, and a good meal is always the perfect way to end a long day on the road - what follows is an extended version of Aubergine's tasting menu.
So much can change in six months. Since our meal in February, Justin Cogley (deservedly and expectedly) received one of Food & Wine's Best New Chef awards, putting Aubergine on the map for a whole new segment of diners. Naturally, national recognition brings increased pressure, but the entire restaurant seems to be holding its own, and more.
We had planned a drive along Highway 1 for the Labor Day weekend, and a good meal is always the perfect way to end a long day on the road - what follows is an extended version of Aubergine's tasting menu.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Saturday, February 9, 2013
"The buildings have no street addresses here," said Nathaniel Munõz, sommelier and restaurant manager of Aubergine at L'Auberge Carmel. He was referring to the sleepy hamlet of Carmel-by-the-Sea, where many cottages have proper names and mail delivery is nonexistent. When night falls, the quiet village is plunged into an engulfing darkness - naturally, there are no street lights here either (indeed, we drove past the hotel's street twice before finding it).
Such is the setting for the twenty-room L'Auberge Carmel, a beautiful and historic inn, where Justin Cogley and Ron Mendoza just happen to be working magic in the kitchen. On this night, the main dining room was reserved for a private event, so we dined at a lone table in the privacy of the restaurant's wine cellar (making the experience all the more special), where the kitchen served us 22 courses over four hours.
NB: Due to the length of the menu, I have kept descriptions succinct. Suffice to say that no dish was less than good, and a few were exceptional. Wine pairings (on this night, completely from the Old World) were likewise inspired at points.
Such is the setting for the twenty-room L'Auberge Carmel, a beautiful and historic inn, where Justin Cogley and Ron Mendoza just happen to be working magic in the kitchen. On this night, the main dining room was reserved for a private event, so we dined at a lone table in the privacy of the restaurant's wine cellar (making the experience all the more special), where the kitchen served us 22 courses over four hours.
NB: Due to the length of the menu, I have kept descriptions succinct. Suffice to say that no dish was less than good, and a few were exceptional. Wine pairings (on this night, completely from the Old World) were likewise inspired at points.
Coi - San Francisco, CA
Dinner - Friday, February 8, 2013
This was supposed to be a meal at Saison's latest incarnation, but unexpected emergencies forced a weekend closure of their new space. Fortunately, their helpful front-of-house staff rebooked us at Coi for the evening - one can certainly think of worse contingencies.
We were seated in the dining area that occupies their (much-missed) former lounge, a strangely organic mix of dark wood and shag pillows. It is loud - the tables are spaced a little too closely for my linking, but c'est la vie. Choices were minimal - still or sparkling water, and would you like the wine pairing? We placed ourselves in their hands for the 11-course tasting menu. Sweet surrender.
We were seated in the dining area that occupies their (much-missed) former lounge, a strangely organic mix of dark wood and shag pillows. It is loud - the tables are spaced a little too closely for my linking, but c'est la vie. Choices were minimal - still or sparkling water, and would you like the wine pairing? We placed ourselves in their hands for the 11-course tasting menu. Sweet surrender.
The Chef's Counter at Saison - San Francisco, CA
Dinner - Saturday, November 17, 2012
Our last meal at Saison was over a year ago, when we shared the meal with Gary Fine in the dining room. I don't know why it took us so long, but we finally made it back.
With just the two of us this time, we made reservations for the chef's counter - somewhat fortuitous, since Saison announced their closure about a week after we secured our seats (if I recall correctly, the new space will not have a kitchen counter). We ended up sharing the counter with two solo reservations, both being gentlemen who work in the industry - a young bar manager from Seattle, and the seasoned director of operations at Delfina.
With just the two of us this time, we made reservations for the chef's counter - somewhat fortuitous, since Saison announced their closure about a week after we secured our seats (if I recall correctly, the new space will not have a kitchen counter). We ended up sharing the counter with two solo reservations, both being gentlemen who work in the industry - a young bar manager from Seattle, and the seasoned director of operations at Delfina.
The Restaurant at Meadowood - St. Helena, CA
Dinner - Saturday, June 16, 2012
We arrived at Meadowood with high expectations after a smashing dinner at Manresa the previous night. Since it's recent renovation, the restaurant has done away with fixed tasting menus (and also eliminated their shorter prix fixe option), and now "customizes" the meal to seat each table. As usual, we gave the kitchen free reign to design the progression as they saw fit.
We arrived at Meadowood with high expectations after a smashing dinner at Manresa the previous night. Since it's recent renovation, the restaurant has done away with fixed tasting menus (and also eliminated their shorter prix fixe option), and now "customizes" the meal to seat each table. As usual, we gave the kitchen free reign to design the progression as they saw fit.
Intermezzo 4 - Jacobsen's Farm
The media buzz about the French Laundry pop-up at Harrods brought to mind a recent visit to Jacobsen's Farm in Yountville. This tiny farm supplies exclusively to the TKRG properties, and as expected, the produce is superb. Our tour of the property revealed prime examples of many interesting plants, particularly chocolate mint, wild arugula, white Alpine strawberries, cardoons, wormwood (!), and the beautiful succulent pictured below (sadly, underused in this country).
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| Ficoïde glaciale - Jacobsen's Farm, Yountville, CA (2011) |
Ubuntu - Napa, CA
Dinner - Sunday, July 17, 2011
Having greatly enjoyed our meal under Aaron London's care on our previous visit, we decided that a return for dinner was necessary on this trip.
Given that we had just run the Napa-to-Sonoma race in the morning, we were starving way before our appointed reservation time (this despite some rather large burgers at Gott's and a nibbling tour of Jacobsen Orchards). The restaurant was bustling when we arrived at 7.00 in the evening. One thing I love about Ubuntu is the amount of natural light in the room, and the airiness of the space. Corny as it sounds, the open environment has a soothing, relaxing effect.
Given that we had just run the Napa-to-Sonoma race in the morning, we were starving way before our appointed reservation time (this despite some rather large burgers at Gott's and a nibbling tour of Jacobsen Orchards). The restaurant was bustling when we arrived at 7.00 in the evening. One thing I love about Ubuntu is the amount of natural light in the room, and the airiness of the space. Corny as it sounds, the open environment has a soothing, relaxing effect.
Saison - San Francisco, CA
Dinner - Friday, July 15, 2011
This was a meal shared with Gary of Veal Cheeks, our last before he ended his stay in the Bay Area. Saison has been on our to-visit list for a long time (since before it was a regular restaurant, if I recall correctly), and Gary has written favorably about his previous visit. As is our routine, we caught a late flight into town and rushed to make our 7.30 pm reservation, speeding through the light traffic on the road.
We (surprisingly) ended up being 10 minutes early, and were seated immediately. The environment at Saison is warm and inviting, bare and rustic but for a few flourishes - a large plant arrangement dominates the indoor seating area, whereas the oven and open hearth commands the attention of those seated in the outdoor section. Complimentary champagne was poured for the table, and after opting to order a single bottle of wine for the evening (a beautiful 2008 Meursault from Domaine Joseph Voillot), dinner commenced.
We (surprisingly) ended up being 10 minutes early, and were seated immediately. The environment at Saison is warm and inviting, bare and rustic but for a few flourishes - a large plant arrangement dominates the indoor seating area, whereas the oven and open hearth commands the attention of those seated in the outdoor section. Complimentary champagne was poured for the table, and after opting to order a single bottle of wine for the evening (a beautiful 2008 Meursault from Domaine Joseph Voillot), dinner commenced.
addendum at ad hoc - Yountville, CA
Lunch - Saturday, July 16, 2011
Thomas Keller has literally infiltrated every level of cuisine, from the ultra high-end (The French Laundry), to mid-level dining (Bouchon), to family-style dinners (ad hoc), and now take-out (addendum). Perhaps it is only a matter of time before he invades the local supermarket's frozen food department? Of course I jest, but it is fascinating to see how he has made his mark along each step of the rung. No place showcases this more than the town of Yountville, where Keller's establishments are incubated and where they naturally flourish.
addendum is a brilliant way to bring Keller to the masses, giving the customer a taste of one of America's most celebrated chefs for the lowly price of $16.50. It only serves lunch 3 days a week, and the food is parceled out on a first-come-first-serve basis, typically running out well before their stated closing time of 2.30 pm. On a hot Saturday afternoon, we decided to brave the legions and make a stop for a quick picnic lunch of fried chicken and barbecue.
addendum is a brilliant way to bring Keller to the masses, giving the customer a taste of one of America's most celebrated chefs for the lowly price of $16.50. It only serves lunch 3 days a week, and the food is parceled out on a first-come-first-serve basis, typically running out well before their stated closing time of 2.30 pm. On a hot Saturday afternoon, we decided to brave the legions and make a stop for a quick picnic lunch of fried chicken and barbecue.
Intermezzo 3 - Bouchon Bakery
I really like Bouchon Bakery - they produce some of the best French breads and pastries this side of the Atlantic. Thomas Keller's obsession with perfection is embodied in the precision and consistency of their baked goods. I never miss an opportunity to pick up something from the bakery, even if it's something as simple as a strawberry-rhubarb macaron (my favourite), a croissant, or an éclair (see below). The delicate puffiness of their choux pastry and flavour of the whipped cream literally make Bouchon Bakery's Chantilly éclairs the cream of the crop (pun intended).
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| Chantilly éclair - Bouchon Bakery, Yountville, CA (2011) |
Cyrus - Healdsburg, CA
Dinner - Monday, April 18, 2011
Cyrus seems to fly under the radar. Sure, it has a perennial 4-star review from Michael Bauer and it's one of only three 2-star Michelin restaurants in the Bay Area, but it generates very little buzz in the online world these days. We had been interested in visiting Cyrus since it first opened, but it's location in faraway Healdsburg and the wealth of other Bay Area dining options have constantly conspired against us actually making it there.
We had made reservations to try Chris Kostow's tasting menu at Meadowood, but changed our minds at the eleventh hour. Given that we would be visiting Napa again in July, we put off Meadowood until then, finally deciding to pay our dues and visit the old guard (Cyrus is a matronly 6 years old this year). I hastily contacted Douglas Keane to arrange an extended tasting, giving him carte blanche with the menu composition, and he promised to whip up an appropriate progression. The timing of our meal was especially opportune, as I was very curious about what he had learnt from his recent culinary fellowship in Japan. What followed was a veritable whirlwind of food and alcohol.
Cyrus seems to fly under the radar. Sure, it has a perennial 4-star review from Michael Bauer and it's one of only three 2-star Michelin restaurants in the Bay Area, but it generates very little buzz in the online world these days. We had been interested in visiting Cyrus since it first opened, but it's location in faraway Healdsburg and the wealth of other Bay Area dining options have constantly conspired against us actually making it there.
We had made reservations to try Chris Kostow's tasting menu at Meadowood, but changed our minds at the eleventh hour. Given that we would be visiting Napa again in July, we put off Meadowood until then, finally deciding to pay our dues and visit the old guard (Cyrus is a matronly 6 years old this year). I hastily contacted Douglas Keane to arrange an extended tasting, giving him carte blanche with the menu composition, and he promised to whip up an appropriate progression. The timing of our meal was especially opportune, as I was very curious about what he had learnt from his recent culinary fellowship in Japan. What followed was a veritable whirlwind of food and alcohol.
Poularde cuite en vessie at benu - San Francisco, CA
Dinner - Saturday, April 16, 2011
"Hi, this is Corey Lee, chef at benu," said the youthful voice on the other end of the phone. It was noon on the day of our scheduled meal, and he was calling to hash out the details of our dinner - a tasting menu incorporating the poularde cuite en vessie, which must be ordered at least two days in advance.
I had been impressed by Corey Lee's food during his time as chef de cuisine at The French Laundry, so when benu opened its doors, I knew that we had to visit. At his former position, he faithfully and purposefully executed Thomas Keller's vision - here, it would be solely his. I was curious to know how he would incorporate his Korean heritage into this new restaurant. In particular, would there be meaning to the liberal use of Asian ingredients?
I left the details of the menu to the chef, giving him free reign. Fast-forward 7 hours, and we were standing outside the restaurant, admiring benu's kitchen before dinner. Walking into the reception area, we noticed our dinner companion (the erudite Gary Fine of Veal Cheeks) already seated, and we promptly joined him. Gary is as engaging and convivial a dining partner as one could ever hope for, and four hours flew by like the blink of an eye.
I had been impressed by Corey Lee's food during his time as chef de cuisine at The French Laundry, so when benu opened its doors, I knew that we had to visit. At his former position, he faithfully and purposefully executed Thomas Keller's vision - here, it would be solely his. I was curious to know how he would incorporate his Korean heritage into this new restaurant. In particular, would there be meaning to the liberal use of Asian ingredients?
I left the details of the menu to the chef, giving him free reign. Fast-forward 7 hours, and we were standing outside the restaurant, admiring benu's kitchen before dinner. Walking into the reception area, we noticed our dinner companion (the erudite Gary Fine of Veal Cheeks) already seated, and we promptly joined him. Gary is as engaging and convivial a dining partner as one could ever hope for, and four hours flew by like the blink of an eye.
Ubuntu - Napa, CA
Lunch - Sunday, April 17, 2011
When Jeremy and Deanie Fox left Ubuntu last year, there was mild panic in the food world. The yoga-studio-cum-vegetarian-restaurant had achieved significant acclaim with them in the kitchen, and people wondered whether Ubuntu would ever be the same. Sous chef Aaron London was promoted to the top position, and there've been some conflicting reports about the food since he assumed the mantle. We made it a point to stop in for a quick bite, to see how the restaurant had evolved. To my surprise, I found the experience much more Fox-esque than I had anticipated.
When Jeremy and Deanie Fox left Ubuntu last year, there was mild panic in the food world. The yoga-studio-cum-vegetarian-restaurant had achieved significant acclaim with them in the kitchen, and people wondered whether Ubuntu would ever be the same. Sous chef Aaron London was promoted to the top position, and there've been some conflicting reports about the food since he assumed the mantle. We made it a point to stop in for a quick bite, to see how the restaurant had evolved. To my surprise, I found the experience much more Fox-esque than I had anticipated.
Intermezzo 2 - Ba gua (肉干)
Ba gua (肉干 - yoke gon in Cantonese; also known as long yoke in Malaysia) is a Chinese dried-meat product, traditionally made with minced pork that is shaped into thin slices and barbecued (although chicken and turkey versions are becoming increasingly common). Ba gua is popular in regions with a large Hokkien Chinese presence, and is especially sought after during
festive seasons like the Chinese New Year. In Malaysia, the good stuff runs $5-7/lb - I purchased the ba gua below at a whopping $25/lb from Little Red Dot Kitchen, a small operation based in Sunnyvale, CA.
At its best, ba gua has a perfect balance of sweet and salty, with a hint of smokiness - the overall flavour should appeal to ones senses on a primal level. The mouthfeel will be slightly oily (but never overly greasy - the sign of poor-quality ba gua), and you should be able to really discern the texture of the meat in your mouth. Like great barbecue, there should be some char on the surface of each slice, but nothing overly burnt - this can be assessed and appreciated visually as well.
So how did the Californian ba gua fare? Honestly, not bad. It scratched an itch, and it's actually a decent representation of ba gua for the uninitiated. Would I buy more? Perhaps - the price is exorbitant for what it is, but the product is unique. But really, what I need to do is take a crack at making my own.
At its best, ba gua has a perfect balance of sweet and salty, with a hint of smokiness - the overall flavour should appeal to ones senses on a primal level. The mouthfeel will be slightly oily (but never overly greasy - the sign of poor-quality ba gua), and you should be able to really discern the texture of the meat in your mouth. Like great barbecue, there should be some char on the surface of each slice, but nothing overly burnt - this can be assessed and appreciated visually as well.
So how did the Californian ba gua fare? Honestly, not bad. It scratched an itch, and it's actually a decent representation of ba gua for the uninitiated. Would I buy more? Perhaps - the price is exorbitant for what it is, but the product is unique. But really, what I need to do is take a crack at making my own.
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| Ba gua - Little Red Dot Kitchen, Sunnyvale, CA (2011) |
Commis - Oakland, CA
Dinner - Sunday, November 14, 2010
Commis is the brainchild of the young James Syhabout, formerly the chef de cuisine at Manresa (the man has also done stints at el Bulli, Mugaritz and The Fat Duck). His background clearly shows itself in the plating and flavour profiles of his dishes (see below).
The space is small - probably no more than 30-35 covers. This allows James and just 3 other chefs to comfortably handle the workload. The menu consists solely of a 4-course tasting menu ($68) that changes continuously. Each course presents two options, for a total of 8 dishes (9 including an optional cheese course) - two dishes are assigned to each chef.
Commis is the brainchild of the young James Syhabout, formerly the chef de cuisine at Manresa (the man has also done stints at el Bulli, Mugaritz and The Fat Duck). His background clearly shows itself in the plating and flavour profiles of his dishes (see below).
The space is small - probably no more than 30-35 covers. This allows James and just 3 other chefs to comfortably handle the workload. The menu consists solely of a 4-course tasting menu ($68) that changes continuously. Each course presents two options, for a total of 8 dishes (9 including an optional cheese course) - two dishes are assigned to each chef.
PassionFish - Pacific Grove, CA
Dinner - Saturday, November 13, 2010
Service was efficient and genial, and our server happily kept the excellent bread basket filled with warm baguettes after hearing about our upcoming race.
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