tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57281299341195237542024-02-19T06:45:17.784-08:00{Insert Food}Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-58599535510330761242015-01-20T20:05:00.000-08:002015-01-20T20:05:51.795-08:00One shyThis is post #99, which means I've averaged 1.9 posts/month over the 52-month life of this blog thus far.<br />
<br />
But, this is a new year, and 2015 brings (finally) a new home for this blog. While all posts from Oct 2010 - Jan 2015 will remain here, future content will appear on <a href="http://yaowong.com/">yaowong.com</a>. I'm hoping the new format will be more visually appealing and allow me to be more flexible with blog entries. See you all there!Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-4533417100737858522015-01-15T12:46:00.000-08:002015-01-15T12:46:48.729-08:00Taian - Osaka, Japan<b>Dinner - Saturday, December 27, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ewsRlEeFygk/VJ67ZFJMJvI/AAAAAAAAmAs/WinOkiD-Lf8/s1600/DSC_4307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ewsRlEeFygk/VJ67ZFJMJvI/AAAAAAAAmAs/WinOkiD-Lf8/s1600/DSC_4307.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Taian</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>My friends have mixed opinions about this place. Most of them, when asked, told me to "just go and see for yourself" - not particularly effusive, it would seem. However, at only 13000 yen for the sole dinner menu, it was a bet I was willing to take.<br />
<i>An interesting note - for the first time ever, I had to use my credit card concierge to make a reservation, because the restaurant would not accept a request from a local friend on my behalf.</i><br />
<br />
The interior is surprisingly spacious, with a long L-shaped counter and a single table, where our party of four was seated. The restaurant was full, and a party of boisterous (and strangely touchy-feely) middle-aged Japanese men (perhaps on a "boy's night out"?) provided our entertainment for the evening.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-39Cg0RTtB3I/VJ67Y7cVCeI/AAAAAAAAmAs/Zc_t3wlv5KA/s1600/DSC_4309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-39Cg0RTtB3I/VJ67Y7cVCeI/AAAAAAAAmAs/Zc_t3wlv5KA/s1600/DSC_4309.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Hassun</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Dinner led with the hassun platter, featuring <i>(clockwise from top left)</i>: yuba with wasabi; <i>konowata</i> (sea cucumber innards); scallop with shellfish sauce and seaweed; sweet potato chips; shiro-ebi with yamaimo and nori. The yuba was fantastically rich with soy flavour, and its creaminess was offset by the wasabi. Likewise, the tiny shiro-ebi were redolent of the sea, although I do not believe Winter is a customary season for them.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kjLNEruUJq4/VJ67YzzVSQI/AAAAAAAAmAs/MDi09XUuv1w/s1600/DSC_4310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kjLNEruUJq4/VJ67YzzVSQI/AAAAAAAAmAs/MDi09XUuv1w/s1600/DSC_4310.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Tsukune, shitake, daikon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A wonderfully clear shitake dashi (I don't think there was any seafood in the stock), warm and light in flavour. The translucent veil of simmered daikon hid a soft chicken meatball. Simple, delicious.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j3Bat3--Gw0/VJ67aJ8mFcI/AAAAAAAAmAs/rQNg07qVuNU/s1600/DSC_4314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j3Bat3--Gw0/VJ67aJ8mFcI/AAAAAAAAmAs/rQNg07qVuNU/s1600/DSC_4314.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fugu</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--INDNXZ0BZc/VJ67aTUWtBI/AAAAAAAAmAs/ObNvibU3628/s1600/DSC_4315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--INDNXZ0BZc/VJ67aTUWtBI/AAAAAAAAmAs/ObNvibU3628/s1600/DSC_4315.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Buri</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unexpectedly, this turned out to be the best piece of buri we ate on this trip. Well-marbled flesh with a firm texture that still yielded easily - a true exemplar of the species.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-88RCy7f_Xqg/VJ67ahjWFYI/AAAAAAAAmAs/7ET0lXZ6XWc/s1600/DSC_4316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-88RCy7f_Xqg/VJ67ahjWFYI/AAAAAAAAmAs/7ET0lXZ6XWc/s1600/DSC_4316.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Kumamoto wagyu</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Taian is known for its grilled items, and for good reason. This course is the only point during the dinner where deviations are allowed - each person is allowed to select one protein from a number of choices, including short ribs (very tender), chicken (smoky - excellent), fish, anago, and the wagyu above. The meats are served with spiced salt and sweet miso. The beef was perfectly cooked - rare interior, smoky and crusty exterior. Had we not enjoyed some superlative Hida-gyu in Takayama 2 days prior (which has set a new bar for me), it would've been the standout beef dish of the trip.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YdKpxQHHQyU/VJ67bdiniSI/AAAAAAAAmAs/FCHanMBO2Xw/s1600/DSC_4317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YdKpxQHHQyU/VJ67bdiniSI/AAAAAAAAmAs/FCHanMBO2Xw/s1600/DSC_4317.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Horsehair crab, ginger, hourensou</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Chilled crab, its natural sweetness brought into focus by the sharp ginger. Next to it, thick leaves of blanched <i>hourensou</i> (Japanese spinach). A great palate cleanser to follow the meat course.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zLD2Kqz4JmE/VJ67b6HSILI/AAAAAAAAmAs/uQPkf8jnU1w/s1600/DSC_4318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zLD2Kqz4JmE/VJ67b6HSILI/AAAAAAAAmAs/uQPkf8jnU1w/s1600/DSC_4318.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Shirako, daikon, gingko</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JmQKbNbg6fQ/VJ67cDRr56I/AAAAAAAAmAs/9nQXMtpLsMo/s1600/DSC_4321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JmQKbNbg6fQ/VJ67cDRr56I/AAAAAAAAmAs/9nQXMtpLsMo/s1600/DSC_4321.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Fugu ochazuke</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The rice course was served <i>ochazuke</i>-style, with a fugu broth poured tableside. A fried fugu "furikake", topped with wasabi, was crunchy and salty, like a refined Japanese take on bacon bits. Very clean flavours, very tasty.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rAKInpRr6E0/VJ67dflgZ6I/AAAAAAAAmAs/9Pm7fVFo234/s1600/DSC_4323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rAKInpRr6E0/VJ67dflgZ6I/AAAAAAAAmAs/9Pm7fVFo234/s1600/DSC_4323.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Strawberry, pear, persimmon, kuromame</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Dessert was <i>sweet</i> - fruits in a syrup, topped with a chunky pear sauce. On the side, we were each provided a vial of pear eau-de-vie to dispense to our heart's content. A liberal dose of the brandy worked wonders, taming the sugary fruit.<br />
<br />
The Michelin guide, I think, throw people off. Did I think this a meal worthy of 3 stars? To my mind, no. Fortunately, we were well-prepared and had no expectations going in. With that mindset, I found the meal quite excellent (the buri and the beef were top-class). Courses are simple - the food is not technique-driven. Ingredients were not rarified. Instead, we had a very good dinner for a very good price. I have no qualms recommending this place to others - perhaps with a disclaimer about the Michelin Man.<br />
<br />
<br />
Taian<br />
1-21-2 Shimanouchi<br />
Chuo-ku, Osaka 542-0082<br />
Japan<br />
Phone: (+81) 06-6120-0790Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-29269887320501016502015-01-02T12:29:00.000-08:002015-01-02T12:29:38.626-08:00Ginza Okamoto - Tokyo, Japan<b>Dinner - Monday, December 22, 2014</b><br />
<br />
Hidetsugu Okamoto opened his eponymous restaurant in the southern end of Ginza after serving as the right hand to Jun Yukimura at the 3-star Azabu Yukimura. Four chefs, eleven seats - a full-house this night. Our reservation was the last of the evening, and the kitchen was in full swing when we arrived. Okamoto is front and center, a blur of movement, talking little. There is only a single menu served - every diner is equal. A hot towel delivered, sake poured, and the meal begins.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-abLv5U4PwrQ/VJgkj8u9nzI/AAAAAAAAlec/KL07lrXQ8yg/s1600/DSC_4120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-abLv5U4PwrQ/VJgkj8u9nzI/AAAAAAAAlec/KL07lrXQ8yg/s1600/DSC_4120.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled scallop, pickled daikon, seaweed, shirako sauce</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By self-admission, the Japanese are obsessed with their seasonal ingredients - December means shirako and <i>zuwaigani</i> (snow crab). This was the first of the former on our trip - <i>every</i> subsequent restaurant meal would feature it in one form or another. Here, it was made into a creamy sauce that coated the scallop sandwich (is this a haute version of the KFC double-double?). The crunchy pickled daikon in the middle had wonderful texture and a sharp bite to balance the richness.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QgSxHgro7nk/VJgkj5eTroI/AAAAAAAAlec/9dJOIFfA02s/s1600/DSC_4121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QgSxHgro7nk/VJgkj5eTroI/AAAAAAAAlec/9dJOIFfA02s/s1600/DSC_4121.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Soba, toasted buckwheat seeds, grated karasumi</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our favourite dish of the evening. Chewy homemade soba (oh, that texture!) with crunchy seeds and flakes of grated mullet roe (I'm not sure why Okamoto's version is so yellow compared to previous versions I've tried, but the colour you see is a true representation). The salt in the roe, the roasted notes from the seeds - perfection.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DubXg7Pbupo/VJgkjim2-zI/AAAAAAAAlec/0minX5XFn1A/s1600/DSC_4122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DubXg7Pbupo/VJgkjim2-zI/AAAAAAAAlec/0minX5XFn1A/s1600/DSC_4122.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sabazushi</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A thick slice of mackerel, paired with an even thicker pickle wedge and wrapped in a sheet of nori. A deceivingly simple two-bite course - the slicing of the components was key to the excellent balance.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q5njj0tq9C0/VJgkmKo8sDI/AAAAAAAAlec/Uxpkw3bxaaA/s1600/DSC_4125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q5njj0tq9C0/VJgkmKo8sDI/AAAAAAAAlec/Uxpkw3bxaaA/s1600/DSC_4125.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Mizuna, chrysanthemum, ikura</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GfkLUE-vDog/VJgkmh0ZXfI/AAAAAAAAlec/e966xtFtKJc/s1600/DSC_4126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GfkLUE-vDog/VJgkmh0ZXfI/AAAAAAAAlec/e966xtFtKJc/s1600/DSC_4126.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">King crab, sudachi</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Claw meat and roe, with a sprinkle of salt crystals and a squeeze of sudachi. Again, ingredient quality carried the dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0mHIeznd6JE/VJgklPEbHzI/AAAAAAAAlec/ul8OgJvEvBA/s1600/DSC_4124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0mHIeznd6JE/VJgklPEbHzI/AAAAAAAAlec/ul8OgJvEvBA/s1600/DSC_4124.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fried yam, pickled fish, tarako, so, shirako mixed with sweetfish</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A fascinating assortment of tidbits to accompany the mizuna and crab dishes. The <i>tarako </i>(in this case, true cod roe) was deep-fried into a crispy baton - I loved the saltiness, but question the one-dimensional texture from frying. On its right, a creamy block of home-made <i>so</i>, a traditional Japanese fermented dairy product akin to cheese (I had an online reference for this, but lost it - my apologies).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iZyRwVOh6NM/VJgkou9tsPI/AAAAAAAAlec/NUceyZA7nIA/s1600/DSC_4127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iZyRwVOh6NM/VJgkou9tsPI/AAAAAAAAlec/NUceyZA7nIA/s1600/DSC_4127.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Steamed yuba, grilled amadai</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
First, a fillet of tilefish was grilled over coal to crisp it up, bringing out the flavours of the fat under its skin. The fish was then wrapped in yuba and steamed, finally settling into a gelatinous dashi broth (thickened with mountain yam?). The fish skin maintained its texture despite all the moisture, and the smokiness was obvious. The creamy yuba was a perfect counterpoint, and the clean soup was redolent of the sea. A really fantastic dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sbM-jAzLEq4/VJgkoHQFxNI/AAAAAAAAlec/WKbPCOru7P4/s1600/DSC_4128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sbM-jAzLEq4/VJgkoHQFxNI/AAAAAAAAlec/WKbPCOru7P4/s1600/DSC_4128.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sawara, grated karami-daikon, vinegar sauce</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zjVYnk5-tN0/VJgkorqoAPI/AAAAAAAAlec/hyu3VOmNrak/s1600/DSC_4129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zjVYnk5-tN0/VJgkorqoAPI/AAAAAAAAlec/hyu3VOmNrak/s1600/DSC_4129.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Snow crab (round 1)</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFWi69TPeuc/VJgkqICM-QI/AAAAAAAAlec/Q-cnZSzadiM/s1600/DSC_4131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFWi69TPeuc/VJgkqICM-QI/AAAAAAAAlec/Q-cnZSzadiM/s1600/DSC_4131.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Snow crab (round 2)</span></i> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsMhhJNFz3c/VJgkq4k6L-I/AAAAAAAAlec/c-EjENQVOSw/s1600/DSC_4132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsMhhJNFz3c/VJgkq4k6L-I/AAAAAAAAlec/c-EjENQVOSw/s1600/DSC_4132.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Snow crab (round 3)</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were served two rounds of <i>zuwaigani </i>meat, grilled over binchotan right in front of us - objectively very good, but crab will never drive me into paroxysms. Round three was, as one of the friendly assistant chefs described it, "chips and guacamole" - arrowroot chips with a puree of crab tomalley. <i>This</i> was excellent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TECnmwvmyF0/VJgkriib31I/AAAAAAAAlec/OSvfzJN8QB8/s1600/DSC_4134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TECnmwvmyF0/VJgkriib31I/AAAAAAAAlec/OSvfzJN8QB8/s1600/DSC_4134.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Seaweed, grated mountain yam, egg yolk, wasabi</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--y4juMPnoms/VJgksWIqqtI/AAAAAAAAlec/WR472MqxCy8/s1600/DSC_4135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--y4juMPnoms/VJgksWIqqtI/AAAAAAAAlec/WR472MqxCy8/s1600/DSC_4135.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Daikon noodles, shirako soup</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A <i>very</i> filling course of daikon noodles (still firm), scallions and other vegetables in a slightly sweet, slightly salty <i>soup</i> of shirako - milt overload. I could not finish mine, delicious as it was. The texture of the slippery noodles was amazing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9QHsku0Qh-I/VJgktGU_f9I/AAAAAAAAlec/3wKopzPErg8/s1600/DSC_4136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9QHsku0Qh-I/VJgktGU_f9I/AAAAAAAAlec/3wKopzPErg8/s1600/DSC_4136.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Steamed rice, chestnuts, maitake</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gCqUIsCmy5s/VJgktlGmxOI/AAAAAAAAlec/1Ke3RPr_iHg/s1600/DSC_4137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gCqUIsCmy5s/VJgktlGmxOI/AAAAAAAAlec/1Ke3RPr_iHg/s1600/DSC_4137.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Rice, pickles, miso soup</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Excellent</i> rice, and the sparse vegetable toppings served to accentuate rather than hide its flavour (I am not a big fan of meat with the rice course). Of course, at this point, we were only able to eat a bowl each, and ended up with a ridiculous amount to take home.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0fhHTgPqHOQ/VJgkuGQkwfI/AAAAAAAAlec/hqqUAxBTlI0/s1600/DSC_4138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0fhHTgPqHOQ/VJgkuGQkwfI/AAAAAAAAlec/hqqUAxBTlI0/s1600/DSC_4138.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Yogurt sorbet, strawberry jam, anko</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I quite liked the tart sorbet - it paired very well with with the red bean paste, which I typically find too sweet. The jam, with only partially cooked strawberries, helped bridge the other two components.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K2sLlyAaWyU/VJgkvJkpCII/AAAAAAAAlec/yi7yqfi0aFM/s1600/DSC_4140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K2sLlyAaWyU/VJgkvJkpCII/AAAAAAAAlec/yi7yqfi0aFM/s1600/DSC_4140.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ginger warabi-mochi</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our first dinner of the trip set the bar high - in particular, the soba, yuba and daikon noodle courses were superlative. We have not yet eaten at his former restaurant, but based on what I've seen, he seems to have stayed true to his roots. We really enjoyed Okamoto's slightly modern interpretation of kaiseki, and of course the gentleman is beyond humble. Worthy of a return meal (high praise in a city with as many options as Tokyo).<br />
<br />
<br />
Ginza Okamoto<br />
5F, Daini Ginza Column Building<br />
8-3-12 Ginza<br />
Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061<br />
Japan<br />
Phone: (+81) 03-3571-5110Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-52028278888232081352014-12-10T16:04:00.000-08:002014-12-10T16:04:11.697-08:00Serpico - Philadelphia, PA<b>Dinner - Sunday, December 7, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4YObxj4PnIA/VIUiynGP5tI/AAAAAAAAlKg/2LxnIm_tZ6Q/s1600/DSC_4053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4YObxj4PnIA/VIUiynGP5tI/AAAAAAAAlKg/2LxnIm_tZ6Q/s1600/DSC_4053.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a name='more'></a>I have a confession to make - I've never eaten at any of David Chang's restaurants. I've read the cookbook, browsed the magazines, watched the interviews - but no dice on the food. Why then, would I venture to eat in the restaurant of <a href="http://twitter.com/serpico_p">Peter Serpico</a>, his former right hand? Perhaps it was the rare event of dining alone in a new city, or curiosity finally getting the better of me, or just a trick of the (cold) weather. In any case, I found myself at the end of the long L-shaped kitchen counter, within his eponymous restaurant. It was a Sunday, and the place was abuzz. The locals, it seem, love it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkujXu0MGeU/VIUigFq6Q_I/AAAAAAAAlKg/XReQS5uAYFc/s1600/DSC_4039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkujXu0MGeU/VIUigFq6Q_I/AAAAAAAAlKg/XReQS5uAYFc/s1600/DSC_4039.jpg" height="" width="690" /></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Vegetable amuses</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The meal started strongly. On the left, a thick, smoked potato chip dressed in chive aioli - delicious. This was accompanied by a warm potato consomme, light but also very flavourful. To its right, a nod towards dim sum - fried turnip cake topped with cobia. Finally, a wedge of eggplant, wrapped in nori, topped with grilled miso.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lGnohxUfqnU/VIUif-6IrLI/AAAAAAAAlKg/ZJVBjTwlrcY/s1600/DSC_4040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lGnohxUfqnU/VIUif-6IrLI/AAAAAAAAlKg/ZJVBjTwlrcY/s1600/DSC_4040.jpg" height="" width="690" /></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Warm mushroom salad</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tender mushrooms in a rich sauce, interspersed with some <i>crunchy</i> deep-fried lily bulbs. In the middle, a lump of cold, grated daikon. The salt and umami in this dish were terrific. The textures of the mushrooms and lily bulbs, the temperature contrast provided by the daikon - excellent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GVrivT-yDEY/VIUifbyF4_I/AAAAAAAAlKg/qgPKUi6loSQ/s1600/DSC_4041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img 690="" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GVrivT-yDEY/VIUifbyF4_I/AAAAAAAAlKg/qgPKUi6loSQ/s1600/DSC_4041.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Brussel sprouts tartine</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyPgqUUCx7vX_922jgRtCmHBxdCkwZ-iadZ66GwbGhd2URaBlZVgaDvyvQunC7H7qf1sz7jcYoOJ456ws3FmIS9ntMF-eTGr3wcBRMyA0HazHQKo5KFn2rsP4ytLvm6yHBkpMJ7inPnkPV/s1600/DSC_4043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyPgqUUCx7vX_922jgRtCmHBxdCkwZ-iadZ66GwbGhd2URaBlZVgaDvyvQunC7H7qf1sz7jcYoOJ456ws3FmIS9ntMF-eTGr3wcBRMyA0HazHQKo5KFn2rsP4ytLvm6yHBkpMJ7inPnkPV/s1600/DSC_4043.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Shaved foie gras<br />
Thai basil, chia seeds, peanuts</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLR20hnO78olZ_Atx9YDyJg5aLGSHN0nBM31QDhjkLFaYKE1hhkeKuWktXvCkhRHLCDqeQbMOGrEHnmAae4mH-NVxjqPmGWSICNAZztf8vHT03fmbB1aG4nlv3TT8aroCx7KuBk6JUuAnz/s1600/DSC_4044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLR20hnO78olZ_Atx9YDyJg5aLGSHN0nBM31QDhjkLFaYKE1hhkeKuWktXvCkhRHLCDqeQbMOGrEHnmAae4mH-NVxjqPmGWSICNAZztf8vHT03fmbB1aG4nlv3TT8aroCx7KuBk6JUuAnz/s1600/DSC_4044.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Caviar and egg<br />
Crispy potatoes, chicken broth, cauliflower mushrooms</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The egg came in the form of silky chawanmushi, topped with a dollop of briny caviar. The potato crumble added a nice, earthy crunch, but the star of the show was the cauliflower mushroom - slick surface giving way to toothsome bite (very much like wood ear mushrooms). The balance of sweet and salty was just right throughout - my favourite dish of the night.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sj3mdnv3PpY/VIUijcg06vI/AAAAAAAAlKg/NyG74HgXqBM/s1600/DSC_4045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sj3mdnv3PpY/VIUijcg06vI/AAAAAAAAlKg/NyG74HgXqBM/s1600/DSC_4045.jpg" height="" width="690" /></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Clams, celery dashi, chive purée</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jeqn1TIC-io/VIUikLlNxVI/AAAAAAAAlKg/UWzkJ7dyGUY/s1600/DSC_4046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jeqn1TIC-io/VIUikLlNxVI/AAAAAAAAlKg/UWzkJ7dyGUY/s1600/DSC_4046.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Shaved pig's head over rice</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Clams and rice were served together. The rice, essentialy a piece of <i>nigirizushi</i>, was boldly seasoned - a common theme throughout the meal (subtlety was not the order of the day). It's saltiness was balanced by the refreshing celery dashi, bright and clean, with a vegetal hint from the chives.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7PGLzTJqr18/VIUir0oIviI/AAAAAAAAlKg/gC_-5o4tbog/s1600/DSC_4047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7PGLzTJqr18/VIUir0oIviI/AAAAAAAAlKg/gC_-5o4tbog/s1600/DSC_4047.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Agnolotti<br />
Nori, pork belly, pork-kimchi soup</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The pasta were a little too thick, but they were merely conduits to channel the killer broth - it was hot and spicy, sour and rich all at the same time. I wanted a bowlful of it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoU2ZOYkvCpHBixjmIDgxXuw7n4HJlRyw37GXn63EvRMWY4zxotEDhs5a_HLUoz5cAnm34HVGnFqRrDBe_F5iPofprSpV1rCFJ0_ryn1cdQ2VfXaTE-pcBk3UraIl22NhnuvkEe1TBrRb/s1600/DSC_4048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoU2ZOYkvCpHBixjmIDgxXuw7n4HJlRyw37GXn63EvRMWY4zxotEDhs5a_HLUoz5cAnm34HVGnFqRrDBe_F5iPofprSpV1rCFJ0_ryn1cdQ2VfXaTE-pcBk3UraIl22NhnuvkEe1TBrRb/s1600/DSC_4048.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Scallops, vadouvan, brown butter</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndlNUk-989D0iXzHnuYX7FpL7vArgqotgViLiM7jxQmdxyrX1C_7yQM1WA_5RL17kfNrAskOTDfeqQpuK4fUut45vMVelkAop4VGfa9rpVq2q5LaVvAxRchJpE3KcH1i5a9lA9pkKvn8U/s1600/DSC_4049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndlNUk-989D0iXzHnuYX7FpL7vArgqotgViLiM7jxQmdxyrX1C_7yQM1WA_5RL17kfNrAskOTDfeqQpuK4fUut45vMVelkAop4VGfa9rpVq2q5LaVvAxRchJpE3KcH1i5a9lA9pkKvn8U/s1600/DSC_4049.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pork neck roulade<br />
Charred Napa cabbage and its purée</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tender pork neck, wrapped in thick-cut bacon, was perfectly cooked. By itself, the richness would have been overkill, but again there was a strong counterpoint in the slightly bitter charred Napa (which tasted like it may have been fermented). Just a few components in the dish, but execution was on-point, and this was a great way to elevate a humble cut.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U0sNoMOmiiI/VIUixLoXyZI/AAAAAAAAlKg/XyS3tGHsOSM/s1600/DSC_4050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img 690="" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U0sNoMOmiiI/VIUixLoXyZI/AAAAAAAAlKg/XyS3tGHsOSM/s1600/DSC_4050.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ribeye cap, seaweed, garlic oil</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQsq_kuIMyk/VIUiw44Jb2I/AAAAAAAAlKg/qv7myLoXw6s/s1600/DSC_4051.jpg" height="" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="690" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Coconut sorbet<br />
Grapefruit vinaigrette, crispy rice pearls</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M48CiC47n5k/VIUiw2OKdvI/AAAAAAAAlKg/feyukv4AKOM/s1600/DSC_4052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M48CiC47n5k/VIUiw2OKdvI/AAAAAAAAlKg/feyukv4AKOM/s1600/DSC_4052.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Chocolate-coffee ganache, sunflower milk</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The food at Serpico is a no-holds-barred assault on the senses - stoner food with a sense of dignity. At the $85 price point, it is a steal (and indeed, notably stronger than a meal I had a few nights before for twice the price). Does this make me one to visit one of David Chang's restaurants? Actually, yes - this dinner was <i>fun. </i>I'm quite interested in tracing this back to its roots - perhaps I will find some perspective on how the master and student have diverged (or have they...?)<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.serpicoonsouth.com/">Serpico</a><br />
604 South Street<br />
Philadelphia, PA 19147<br />
Phone: (215) 925-3001Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-49693419526785175602014-11-27T21:49:00.000-08:002014-11-27T21:49:32.324-08:00Intermezzo 7 - XurrosWe had our fair share of churros (Catalan: <i>xurros</i>) on our recent trip down the east coast of Spain - from convenience stores, to fast food chains, to dedicated churrerias run by aged members of the <i>Gremi de Artesans Xurrers de Catalonia </i>(yes, it exists). Our favourite rendition was served at a small storefront in Barcelona's El Born district - a friendly and unassuming husband-and-wife team with more than 40 years of experience run Xurreria Layetana.<br />
<br />
Locals drift in and out for coffee, hot chocolate, or piping hot churros. Freshness counts - the old man was continuously frying up small batches of churros and <i>porras</i> (a larger, yeastier cousin). The texture of the churros here was remarkable - lighter than every other place we tried. No need for sugar on these - the light sweetness of the dough suffices. And that chocolate... nearly thick enough to hold a spoon upright. The damage? €3 - a steal for a breakfast of this quality.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IQqrwPNj6V4/VDFtgqYkocI/AAAAAAAAkU4/Kqfv7GdlPxY/s1600/DSC_3764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IQqrwPNj6V4/VDFtgqYkocI/AAAAAAAAkU4/Kqfv7GdlPxY/s1600/DSC_3764.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Xocolata amb xurros - Xurreria Layetana, Barcelona, Spain (2014)</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-55412403585196833662014-10-19T10:52:00.000-07:002014-10-19T10:52:01.616-07:00Quique Dacosta - Dénia, Spain<b>Lunch - Wednesday, October 8, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bLMLre1i8hQ/VDXBmHul6wI/AAAAAAAAko0/uoEI5j4qdxs/s1600/DSC_3880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bLMLre1i8hQ/VDXBmHul6wI/AAAAAAAAko0/uoEI5j4qdxs/s1600/DSC_3880.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
Quique Dacosta (the man) exudes an air of derring-do. He's a rakish charmer, a raconteur. But that concentration - his thoughtful, serious side surfaces quickly and we are plunged deep into a discussion about his cuisine and its place in the web of things.<br />
<br />
Quique Dacosta (the restaurant) is a reflection of its patron. Four hours from Barcelona in the holiday town of Dénia, it is a disarming space - modern yet rooted in history (it was previously owned by his father-in-law). The servers are relaxed, and it is their consummate professionalism that sets diners at ease (the GM, Didier, gets a special mention for being a true credit to his profession).<br />
<br />
Our party of five arrived at the restaurant for a 1.30pm appointment - the first of the day. The shaded patio was inviting in the heat of the Spanish afternoon - our meal, the "Tomorrowland" menu, began there.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<i>NB: Because of the extensive number of courses, I will keep descriptions to a minimum in this post. Suffice to say, it was the best food and service we received during our time in Portugal and Spain. Indeed, this was an all-time top 10 meal.</i><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 1 - Snacks</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PijMPnCPEPM/VDXByq-zdkI/AAAAAAAAko0/N5--_9LmbfU/s1600/DSC_3884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PijMPnCPEPM/VDXByq-zdkI/AAAAAAAAko0/N5--_9LmbfU/s1600/DSC_3884.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Gintonic of apple, petals of roses</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A sweet beginning - the faux inner petals of the flower were juicy strips of apple infused with rose syrup. This was paired with an apple-infused <i>gintonic </i>(yes, one word), a perennial favourite hereabouts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J--vs_RmKiI/VDXB81NOm6I/AAAAAAAAko0/Lqt-ubxFlQU/s1600/DSC_3887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J--vs_RmKiI/VDXB81NOm6I/AAAAAAAAko0/Lqt-ubxFlQU/s1600/DSC_3887.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Dry leaves, roots of boletus</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Two different leaves - sweet corn, and herbs in vinegar (the latter being especially good). The roots were made of rice flour mixed with mushroom powder - quite addictive.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1VoQ7qb3E4/VDXBxZ8Y2aI/AAAAAAAAko0/q_i3uyFd3dg/s1600/DSC_3886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1VoQ7qb3E4/VDXBxZ8Y2aI/AAAAAAAAko0/q_i3uyFd3dg/s1600/DSC_3886.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Stones of Parmesan cheese</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We've had our fair share of edible "stones", but these jet-black specimens were a standout - pungent, salty, cheesy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1TeDE9v4wp4/VDXB89ALZ6I/AAAAAAAAko0/VI6Fki0M65w/s1600/DSC_3888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1TeDE9v4wp4/VDXB89ALZ6I/AAAAAAAAko0/VI6Fki0M65w/s1600/DSC_3888.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Tomatoes in vinegar</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-987G6qvcEms/VDXB93bASOI/AAAAAAAAko0/IVlPLkh5dok/s1600/DSC_3890.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-987G6qvcEms/VDXB93bASOI/AAAAAAAAko0/IVlPLkh5dok/s1600/DSC_3890.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Spaghetti puttanesca"</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lAkc6PrxhQU/VDXCJT6FWeI/AAAAAAAAko0/WyXRwnmQ6Xg/s1600/DSC_3891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lAkc6PrxhQU/VDXCJT6FWeI/AAAAAAAAko0/WyXRwnmQ6Xg/s1600/DSC_3891.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Raïm del pastor</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A medicinal plant found throughout the area around Valencia, the <i>raïm del pastor</i> (Cat's Claw) was pickled before serving. The leaves were succulent, but I found the stem and root too fibrous.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 2 - Pickled</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IuGKVBaP8eY/VDXCIswxl2I/AAAAAAAAko0/mc_fO2PEkTE/s1600/DSC_3894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IuGKVBaP8eY/VDXCIswxl2I/AAAAAAAAko0/mc_fO2PEkTE/s1600/DSC_3894.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mullet roe</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UVMmFs_mZqs/VDXCKbqBVnI/AAAAAAAAko0/rJ0R_I5a2-Q/s1600/DSC_3895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UVMmFs_mZqs/VDXCKbqBVnI/AAAAAAAAko0/rJ0R_I5a2-Q/s1600/DSC_3895.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Octopus</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Octopus was air-dried, then seared over an open flame before being simply dressed with olive oil and salt. The texture was remarkable - chewy in the best possible way.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mvHZLShQ_ms/VDXCPoBvamI/AAAAAAAAko0/Vul1Wi11bw8/s1600/DSC_3896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mvHZLShQ_ms/VDXCPoBvamI/AAAAAAAAko0/Vul1Wi11bw8/s1600/DSC_3896.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Olives and its stones"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Olive ice cream and anchovy "pits" were set atop an olive oil gel - I loved the interplay of salt and fruitiness.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qGmAWV98C5M/VDXCQgxCAzI/AAAAAAAAko0/FFkx-M26-P0/s1600/DSC_3897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qGmAWV98C5M/VDXCQgxCAzI/AAAAAAAAko0/FFkx-M26-P0/s1600/DSC_3897.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ajoblanco and almonds</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The ajoblanco liquid was encapsulated within a thin shell. Again, the olive oil really shone here, highlighting the flavours of almond and garlic.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 3 - Tapas</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HnLV62bjVNg/VDXCSDGRObI/AAAAAAAAko0/f90hikZAEGU/s1600/DSC_3898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HnLV62bjVNg/VDXCSDGRObI/AAAAAAAAko0/f90hikZAEGU/s1600/DSC_3898.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Tobacco leaf" and toro</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The faux leaf was made of crispy seaweed - an ideal pairing with the luscious (and very generous) slices of toro. There was almost too much of this course... almost.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--vved8kA9QA/VDXCZy7KQcI/AAAAAAAAko0/bwR_ZBIiY3c/s1600/DSC_3899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--vved8kA9QA/VDXCZy7KQcI/AAAAAAAAko0/bwR_ZBIiY3c/s1600/DSC_3899.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Bacalao beignet</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lcuw6NiAlDA/VDXCgO2Fs9I/AAAAAAAAko0/4zYc75mEH7M/s1600/DSC_3900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lcuw6NiAlDA/VDXCgO2Fs9I/AAAAAAAAko0/4zYc75mEH7M/s1600/DSC_3900.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Socarrat" of shrimp and aioli</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The shell that held the aioli mimicked the <i>socarrat</i> crust that forms under the rice in properly-cooked paella - it was thin, crispy and tasted of the sea. Atop this cylinder sat a barely-cooked shrimp - <i>so</i> good.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yM-TAhRMfGA/VDXCfSH5r0I/AAAAAAAAko0/_KbhnF6BZ8Q/s1600/DSC_3903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yM-TAhRMfGA/VDXCfSH5r0I/AAAAAAAAko0/_KbhnF6BZ8Q/s1600/DSC_3903.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Razor clam, ginger</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A braid of raw razor clam kissed with ginger - a bold demonstration of local product quality. Excellent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o3lQV9N0YgA/VDXCjvvl9BI/AAAAAAAAko0/bSpKH6evQpk/s1600/DSC_3904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o3lQV9N0YgA/VDXCjvvl9BI/AAAAAAAAko0/bSpKH6evQpk/s1600/DSC_3904.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Razor clam tartare<br />
Mint, lemon balm, gojuchang, coconut</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b8Lu1YoCnOc/VDXCbPx7-xI/AAAAAAAAko0/DV38RFOwhak/s1600/DSC_3902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b8Lu1YoCnOc/VDXCbPx7-xI/AAAAAAAAko0/DV38RFOwhak/s1600/DSC_3902.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Smoked seaweed and plankton</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fcuj_8yeb80/VDXCrpyTWxI/AAAAAAAAko0/B8hR3kFzsa8/s1600/DSC_3905.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fcuj_8yeb80/VDXCrpyTWxI/AAAAAAAAko0/B8hR3kFzsa8/s1600/DSC_3905.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Natural sea urchin"</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This was anything but natural - the thin nori shell (with additional nori "spines") held a creamy center of local uni. One of the best bites of the day.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sSN2fwfZsRk/VDXCsrrmQ0I/AAAAAAAAko0/r1T_PHqKSkQ/s1600/DSC_3907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sSN2fwfZsRk/VDXCsrrmQ0I/AAAAAAAAko0/r1T_PHqKSkQ/s1600/DSC_3907.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled scallop, cilantro</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vYlxdSzvMI0/VDXC1xaCx9I/AAAAAAAAko0/4Mlb3EeZzXg/s1600/DSC_3909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vYlxdSzvMI0/VDXC1xaCx9I/AAAAAAAAko0/4Mlb3EeZzXg/s1600/DSC_3909.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mochi of black truffle and "torta de la Serena"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Wow</i>. The mochi skin was a bag of wonders - creamy <i>La Serena</i> cheese (an aged sheep's milk product) and black truffle essence. Taste-wise, it triggered memories of Alinea's "hot potato, cold potato", although it was texturally distinct.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LD6QOByLNoE/VDXCvPUoJwI/AAAAAAAAko0/yGuQu3rxdGQ/s1600/DSC_3908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LD6QOByLNoE/VDXCvPUoJwI/AAAAAAAAko0/yGuQu3rxdGQ/s1600/DSC_3908.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Jerusalem trunk"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
False sunchokes composed of a sunchoke shell holding a filling of creamed sunchoke - this was, to me, a rare instance of the creation being better than the original ingredient.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 4 - Mains</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNTEGYMzdH4/VDXC3_3zSBI/AAAAAAAAko0/GztlTBz7RtA/s1600/DSC_3912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNTEGYMzdH4/VDXC3_3zSBI/AAAAAAAAko0/GztlTBz7RtA/s1600/DSC_3912.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Oysters, raw and fried<br />
Crispy shell of oyster water</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9e8WHJi06lQ/VDXC9AspqaI/AAAAAAAAko0/nsm61sssQBU/s1600/DSC_3916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9e8WHJi06lQ/VDXC9AspqaI/AAAAAAAAko0/nsm61sssQBU/s1600/DSC_3916.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Red king prawn from Dénia</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This prawn, blanched in seawater, was the closest any preparation has come to the superlative grilled Palamos shrimp at Etxebarri - <i>no mean feat</i>. It was served with a warm, thick "tea" of its innards - heavenly. I would happily eat through an identical menu just to have another of these prawns.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zfkNTiCVo3Q/VDXDDdDwngI/AAAAAAAAko0/IMmSRjid1nc/s1600/DSC_3921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zfkNTiCVo3Q/VDXDDdDwngI/AAAAAAAAko0/IMmSRjid1nc/s1600/DSC_3921.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Rice of peas and cuttlefish eggs</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAbVIK9hNb8/VDXDCcpoNfI/AAAAAAAAko0/i95pD5Y2AZ4/s1600/DSC_3922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAbVIK9hNb8/VDXDCcpoNfI/AAAAAAAAko0/i95pD5Y2AZ4/s1600/DSC_3922.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sturgeon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The fish was served three ways - crispy skin as a base, holding cubes of cooked flesh, topped with its eggs. Simply conceived, masterfully prepared.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jS6tp8iD108/VDXDF4wxeRI/AAAAAAAAko0/yy_yUeg2T20/s1600/DSC_3923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jS6tp8iD108/VDXDF4wxeRI/AAAAAAAAko0/yy_yUeg2T20/s1600/DSC_3923.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Mediterranean taco"</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The monkfish filling of the taco was <i>en adobo</i> - deep red and smoky with a touch of heat. A particularly delicious bite.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 5 - Meats</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4OlGVaezDYA/VDXDL3JHv5I/AAAAAAAAko0/l3M5ls2cIao/s1600/DSC_3925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4OlGVaezDYA/VDXDL3JHv5I/AAAAAAAAko0/l3M5ls2cIao/s1600/DSC_3925.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Tendon, "horchata" and black truffle</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Stewed tendon, all sticky and gooey, drizzled with a thick purée of <i>chufa</i> (tiger nuts, the primary ingredient in Spanish horchata). Over the top, shavings of black truffle from Valencia - I did not know these existed. A rich, mouth-coating dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CCysJSpY3s/VDXDOGMIbAI/AAAAAAAAko0/Si7G07HWGOU/s1600/DSC_3929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CCysJSpY3s/VDXDOGMIbAI/AAAAAAAAko0/Si7G07HWGOU/s1600/DSC_3929.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pigeon and its jus<br />
Malt spaghetti, watercress</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 6 - Desserts</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g6IVtHTHdF4/VDXDOFQoH3I/AAAAAAAAko0/GbbzaJQYCuk/s1600/DSC_3931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g6IVtHTHdF4/VDXDOFQoH3I/AAAAAAAAko0/GbbzaJQYCuk/s1600/DSC_3931.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Mojito" of cucumber and seaweed</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Challenging, but strangely addictive. The seaweed, in the form of a mint-infused chip, was <i>not</i> subtle. Yet, it's brininess worked well with the sweet mango pearls underneath, and a strong note of lemon (in the liquid?) somehow balanced out the marine flavours.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0jMCOn9MCl8/VDXDSVe0EnI/AAAAAAAAko0/F3kkTpYskH8/s1600/DSC_3932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0jMCOn9MCl8/VDXDSVe0EnI/AAAAAAAAko0/F3kkTpYskH8/s1600/DSC_3932.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Black forest cake</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A lighter take on the classic - shards of dark chocolate piled atop the aerated cake, studded with stewed cherries.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UntFs5ra90/VDXDaRGFQEI/AAAAAAAAko0/_p_siXAHSsE/s1600/DSC_3934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UntFs5ra90/VDXDaRGFQEI/AAAAAAAAko0/_p_siXAHSsE/s1600/DSC_3934.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cinnamon branch, spherified prunes</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Act 7 - Sweets</span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RK4TXrkRFLg/VDXDa15ck9I/AAAAAAAAko0/_QGMlw-pMxQ/s1600/DSC_3936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RK4TXrkRFLg/VDXDa15ck9I/AAAAAAAAko0/_QGMlw-pMxQ/s1600/DSC_3936.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Dove nests"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ds0WBbELZ2A/VDXDiLWt-4I/AAAAAAAAko0/o3h3P4p7Q60/s1600/DSC_3938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ds0WBbELZ2A/VDXDiLWt-4I/AAAAAAAAko0/o3h3P4p7Q60/s1600/DSC_3938.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Raspberry-yogurt paper</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bnS7omBdtio/VDXDjDTeOGI/AAAAAAAAko0/C4vukhmwF7k/s1600/DSC_3939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bnS7omBdtio/VDXDjDTeOGI/AAAAAAAAko0/C4vukhmwF7k/s1600/DSC_3939.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cocoa paper</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bVpmkKvrIq0/VDXDcAflJkI/AAAAAAAAko0/OEg_kdo1e44/s1600/DSC_3937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bVpmkKvrIq0/VDXDcAflJkI/AAAAAAAAko0/OEg_kdo1e44/s1600/DSC_3937.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Almond "stones", gold "nuggets", truffles, macarons</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On a Wednesday afternoon in early October, with Quique Dacosta (the man) on premises, the restaurant served a total of <i>eight</i> guests. Essentially, we enjoyed a private lunch cooked by one of the best chefs in the world.<br />
<br />
Why aren't the gastro-tourists pounding at the door for reservations - surely it's not just the location? They are missing out. This was a special meal (as mentioned at the beginning, I think this cracks my all-time top 10) - modern but drawing on tradition, simultaneously global and hyper-local. The Michelin man gets it right - 3 stars, without a doubt. My biggest regret is not being able to taste his other menu, the "Universo Local", a collection of greatest hits developed over a decade. But, we will return, sooner or later. We must - Quique Dacosta (the man, the restaurant) deserves no less.<br />
<b><br /><br />
</b> <a href="http://www.quiquedacosta.es/">Quique Dacosta</a><br />
Carretera de las Marinas km 3<br />
Carrer Rascassa 1<br />
Urb. El Poblet 03700 Dénia<br />
Spain<br />
Phone: +34 (965) 784 179<br />
<br />Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-38422172086824165562014-10-12T10:39:00.000-07:002014-10-12T10:39:57.385-07:00Assinatura - Lisbon, Portugal<b>Dinner - Friday, October 3, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qXrBsgIVkPY/VC8oYr1gxnI/AAAAAAAAj88/9YuK7ho9mgI/s1600/DSC_3672.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qXrBsgIVkPY/VC8oYr1gxnI/AAAAAAAAj88/9YuK7ho9mgI/s1600/DSC_3672.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
By and large, the food we ate in Lisbon was cheap, but not particularly great. For example, a meal at the lauded <a href="http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt/">Cervejaria Ramiro</a> was only ~120 Euros (for 5!) and certainly better than anything we might get in San Diego, but it paled in comparison to seafood spots in Barcelona (is this just a cultural preference on our part?)<br />
<br />
Our luck improved on our last night, with dinner at the fancifully decorated Restaurante Assinatura. I happened across it as a one-time mention on Chowhound, and it is evidently not on the Michelin Man's radar - too bad for them. Melodramatic waiter aside (and he was charming in his own peculiar way), this was a very enjoyable dinner.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eUhwf2G-OAw/VC8oTzTcMdI/AAAAAAAAj80/HAhEy7S3g2g/s1600/DSC_3674.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eUhwf2G-OAw/VC8oTzTcMdI/AAAAAAAAj80/HAhEy7S3g2g/s1600/DSC_3674.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pork crackling, crab salad</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MV8W0SMRWm8/VC8oQbhE9UI/AAAAAAAAj8s/gLIyajUal7M/s1600/DSC_3676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img 690="" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MV8W0SMRWm8/VC8oQbhE9UI/AAAAAAAAj8s/gLIyajUal7M/s1600/DSC_3676.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Local oysters<br />
Iberian pork cream, Aveiro seaweed</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n2YUHmD4vyE/VC8ofMnn0NI/AAAAAAAAj9E/46Jwt9NayEQ/s1600/DSC_3677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n2YUHmD4vyE/VC8ofMnn0NI/AAAAAAAAj9E/46Jwt9NayEQ/s1600/DSC_3677.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled boleta, braised chard, nasturtium</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Foraged porcini, expertly grilled, was pleasantly smoky. The chard was cooked to the point of melting - delicious. The raw slices were puzzling - I can probably count the number of times I have enjoyed raw mushrooms on one hand.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zMl4AgGAwN8/VC8ohhpvyDI/AAAAAAAAj9M/NU_NDpzxhmM/s1600/DSC_3679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zMl4AgGAwN8/VC8ohhpvyDI/AAAAAAAAj9M/NU_NDpzxhmM/s1600/DSC_3679.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Black pudding, pear, onion</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A <i>serious</i> hunk of black pudding was beautifully charred and caramelized on the exterior, yet soft on the inside - like a savory, mineral canelé. The pickled onion and sweet pear were essential to stave off palate fatigue.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_VuAlbs1Y-A/VC8onR1NUEI/AAAAAAAAj9U/puqHX2FcyvI/s1600/DSC_3680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_VuAlbs1Y-A/VC8onR1NUEI/AAAAAAAAj9U/puqHX2FcyvI/s1600/DSC_3680.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Atlantic snapper<br />
Massa souvada, parsnip, peperoncini</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Given the curl of the snapper, I was worried that it was grossly overcooked when it arrived. No need to worry - it was excellent. An interesting accompaniment was the toasted batons of <i>massa souvada</i> - egg and potato bread with cinnamon. The small amount of spice worked surprisingly well with the white fish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/----BNNtHBUI/VC8otBFC6jI/AAAAAAAAj9c/CNVlVt1yVDc/s1600/DSC_3681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/----BNNtHBUI/VC8otBFC6jI/AAAAAAAAj9c/CNVlVt1yVDc/s1600/DSC_3681.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled Iberian pork shoulder and its jus<br />
Charred leek puree, honey-glazed pears, rosemary</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Damn, this was good. Compositionally, not particularly creative, but the pork was downright <i>fantastic</i>. Based on the meat alone, this was one of the best pieces of pork I have ever had - it caught everyone at the table completely unawares. Thickness, temperature, texture, flavour - everything was just right (down to the creamy fatcap).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pyXCSl4fgic/VC8ovgbSc-I/AAAAAAAAj9k/QUMKY0Wu9eg/s1600/DSC_3682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pyXCSl4fgic/VC8ovgbSc-I/AAAAAAAAj9k/QUMKY0Wu9eg/s1600/DSC_3682.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Smoked goat cheese, persimmon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PZ48lMddR7A/VC8ox-SVjLI/AAAAAAAAj9s/dap7xdLOg4s/s1600/DSC_3684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PZ48lMddR7A/VC8ox-SVjLI/AAAAAAAAj9s/dap7xdLOg4s/s1600/DSC_3684.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Peach sorbet, poached peach, almond ganache</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At 8pm on a Friday evening, we were the first customers of the night. By the time we left at 11pm, I counted 4 seated tables. I <i>hope</i> this was an unusual day - this restaurant deserves better. The Portuguese dining scene may not be as evolved as its next-door neighbour's, but Assinatura would be a good pick in any city.<br />
<br />
<b><br />
</b> <a href="http://www.assinatura.com.pt/">Assinatura</a><br />
Rua do Vale Pereiro 19<br />
1250-270 Lisboa<br />
Portugal<br />
Phone: +351 (21) 386-7696Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-89534605760681562502014-10-05T07:58:00.000-07:002014-10-05T07:58:26.047-07:00The Ledbury - London, UK<b>Dinner - Monday, September 29, 2014</b><br />
<br />
Over a decade since I was last in London, and only one night (a Monday, at that) to take in its burgeoning dining scene. I have been keeping my eye on The Ledbury for some time - chef-patron Brett Graham has a cooking voice that resonates with me. We had to visit. We made the short trek from our hotel by Paddington station to sleepy Notting Hill in the dark of a chilly Autumn night - what we ate certainly warmed our cockles.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bbOP3DJpE3Q/VCsvC7i4PKI/AAAAAAAAjY8/7PJvJBFRMiU/s1600/DSC_3424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bbOP3DJpE3Q/VCsvC7i4PKI/AAAAAAAAjY8/7PJvJBFRMiU/s1600/DSC_3424.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Prawn crackers</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wonderfully delicate texture (a filigree, if you will), yet <i>so</i> intense. A powerful, shrimpy first bite. I can imagine this being too much for some diners.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruXmEqeGHk8/VCsvP5ZyIuI/AAAAAAAAjZM/YaAZ3kYBHuM/s1600/DSC_3428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruXmEqeGHk8/VCsvP5ZyIuI/AAAAAAAAjZM/YaAZ3kYBHuM/s1600/DSC_3428.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sunflower crisp, artichoke purée</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XEM-7yn1fYU/VCsvA91XqMI/AAAAAAAAjY0/WKfjUayVnMI/s1600/DSC_3426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XEM-7yn1fYU/VCsvA91XqMI/AAAAAAAAjY0/WKfjUayVnMI/s1600/DSC_3426.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Foie gras puff, meat jelly</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvImUXNsaGE/VCsvFEjDblI/AAAAAAAAjZE/enKfNEgNLxw/s1600/DSC_3427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvImUXNsaGE/VCsvFEjDblI/AAAAAAAAjZE/enKfNEgNLxw/s1600/DSC_3427.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Steamed brioche, onion</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The last snack was quite a highlight - soft, moist brioche topped with salty onions and cheese. Like a fine-dining amalgamation of myriad guilty pleasures.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2xdt3_ULhg/VCsvRqz5BZI/AAAAAAAAjZU/vADcOWt3T6c/s1600/DSC_3429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2xdt3_ULhg/VCsvRqz5BZI/AAAAAAAAjZU/vADcOWt3T6c/s1600/DSC_3429.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Artichoke salad<br />
Muscat grapes, hazelnut, grated foie gras</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It is apparently possible to make foie gras powder taste good - I have always been disappointed, until this dish. A few buds of sorrel kept the palate entertained in between the creamy bites of artichoke and foie. A really well thought-out dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KjEaIuyeoh0/VCsvePlpkvI/AAAAAAAAjZc/IA4YEinjM0k/s1600/DSC_3430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KjEaIuyeoh0/VCsvePlpkvI/AAAAAAAAjZc/IA4YEinjM0k/s1600/DSC_3430.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Flame-grilled mackerel<br />
Pickled cucumber, Celtic mustard, shiso</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Wow</i>. The mackerel (sourced locally, I assume) was fantastic - clearly oily but not unpleasantly fishy as they can get when grilled this way. To contrast, a "dumpling" of mackerel tartare paired with Celtic mustard was clean and of excellent quality. A smear of avocado puree modulated the textures of the fish, and cucumber provided snap.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c0UDQB_KZyE/VCsvoLd3A3I/AAAAAAAAjZk/QzCqiVMxp08/s1600/DSC_3431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c0UDQB_KZyE/VCsvoLd3A3I/AAAAAAAAjZk/QzCqiVMxp08/s1600/DSC_3431.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Hampshire buffalo milk curd<br />
Wild mushrooms, broth of grilled onions</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3-y6YPTbXsU/VCsvq9m1gqI/AAAAAAAAjZs/gIXeb2bl9yI/s1600/DSC_3433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3-y6YPTbXsU/VCsvq9m1gqI/AAAAAAAAjZs/gIXeb2bl9yI/s1600/DSC_3433.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Poilane bread, St. Nectaire, truffles</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Almost like a chawanmushi, the curd was surprisingly mild, becoming a textural component in the face of the heady onion broth. We were instructed to dip the toasted bread into the soup - cheese on cheese, with a dressing of Australian truffle. Umami, umami, umami. Easy to go overboard, but it did not feel so - our dish of the night.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zi3U_UV3lwI/VCsv4FpHVtI/AAAAAAAAjZ0/FnHQJImwCxc/s1600/DSC_3436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zi3U_UV3lwI/VCsv4FpHVtI/AAAAAAAAjZ0/FnHQJImwCxc/s1600/DSC_3436.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cornish turbot, brassicas<br />
Sake veloute, chopped oyster, green olive</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PfTavXEn1Q4/VCsv7gPu4rI/AAAAAAAAjZ8/PROI9eM1Zw0/s1600/DSC_3439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PfTavXEn1Q4/VCsv7gPu4rI/AAAAAAAAjZ8/PROI9eM1Zw0/s1600/DSC_3439.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Aged pigeon, confit leg<br />
Dried blackcurrant, treviso, beet</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The restaurant is supposed to do meat and game quite well, and this course validated that. The minerality of the medium-rare pigeon breast was something else (although the skin was a little flaccid). The surprise, however, was the wedge of beet - somehow, some way, it is <i>the</i> best beet we've ever eaten. A very, <i>very</i> good dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GztHPVYgkmI/VCsv86D9JcI/AAAAAAAAjaE/onGEo0IL1wk/s1600/DSC_3441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GztHPVYgkmI/VCsv86D9JcI/AAAAAAAAjaE/onGEo0IL1wk/s1600/DSC_3441.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dexter beef, slow-cooked shortrib<br />
Marrow, salt-baked turnips, padron</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BurrOzASuTk/VCswO5F90YI/AAAAAAAAjaU/PT0GMelvj68/s1600/DSC_3442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BurrOzASuTk/VCswO5F90YI/AAAAAAAAjaU/PT0GMelvj68/s1600/DSC_3442.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A selection of English cheese with London honey</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b-HYrORwruU/VCswODT19xI/AAAAAAAAjaM/iqvoOWICHrk/s1600/DSC_3444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b-HYrORwruU/VCswODT19xI/AAAAAAAAjaM/iqvoOWICHrk/s1600/DSC_3444.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Sweet clove custard, frozen plum, crushed meringue</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tart and spicy, but offset by the light yet creamy custard - the perfect palate cleanser.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XG_L1Tz3Gvo/VCswP3NJ5sI/AAAAAAAAjac/uWaym1cIEdU/s1600/DSC_3445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XG_L1Tz3Gvo/VCswP3NJ5sI/AAAAAAAAjac/uWaym1cIEdU/s1600/DSC_3445.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Blackberry tartlet<br />
Star anise cream, lovage ice cream, Muscat grape sorbet</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A delicate, <i>pretty</i> dish. The cream did not overpower, yielding only a hint of anise to match the sweet blackberries. The lovage ice cream, in particular, was excellent - obvious but not overly vegetal. Again, mastery of balance here.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CWtRIQ3BxVE/VCswX3wNBhI/AAAAAAAAjak/sjGmHt58piA/s1600/DSC_3446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CWtRIQ3BxVE/VCswX3wNBhI/AAAAAAAAjak/sjGmHt58piA/s1600/DSC_3446.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Cocoa-rolled coconut ice cream, gin/lime/juniper bark, hazelnut-cocoa bonbon</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This meal was <i>on point</i>. A thoughtfully curated menu (the menu changes slowly, with the mackerel and buffalo milk curd being signature dishes), great product and careful cooking combine to put The Ledbury solidly in 2-star territory. In some sense, it felt slightly conservative compared to equivalent restaurants stateside, but those establishments would be hard-pressed to match the consistency of this kitchen (<i>why</i> is that such a problem?). We would happily return.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.theledbury.com/">The Ledbury</a><br />
127 Ledbury Road<br />
Notting Hill, London<br />
United Kingdom W11 2AQ<br />
Phone: +44 (0) 20-7792-9090Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-21538054897683515302014-09-02T22:56:00.000-07:002014-09-02T22:56:14.734-07:00Camino - Oakland, CA<b>Dinner - Friday, August 29, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CTTDtfOh7js/VAFcZrp10QI/AAAAAAAAjH4/OlHJjyG3hOM/s1600/DSC_3351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CTTDtfOh7js/VAFcZrp10QI/AAAAAAAAjH4/OlHJjyG3hOM/s1600/DSC_3351.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fire</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>The heat of the blazing fire is palpable from across the pass. It's amazing how the kitchen stands by it all night, feeding it and feeding off it. This is Camino, where Russell Moore brings the full force of <i>two decades</i> at Chez Panisse to bear. Camino is six years old in 2014. Six years for us to have our first meal here - unforgivable.<br />
<br />
The menu is small, focused and ever-changing - less than a dozen savoury dishes, and a few desserts. We managed to sample about half the offerings tonight, and I wish we had room for all of it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qSk27PEbZ0M/VAFcQ8aSndI/AAAAAAAAjH0/l9sHJ5R3uro/s1600/DSC_3335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qSk27PEbZ0M/VAFcQ8aSndI/AAAAAAAAjH0/l9sHJ5R3uro/s1600/DSC_3335.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fried local anchovies, maitake mushrooms and sweet peppers with yogurt</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The batter was ethereal - like eating clouds. I would put these up against the upper echelons of tempura mastery (although the textures are altogether different). A side of cumin-spiked yogurt was a spicy, tangy bath for the various fried items - a <i>very</i> impressive start.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5lhKKKQaGBo/VAFcQ8U-OcI/AAAAAAAAjH0/MZkmlZqsELk/s1600/DSC_3336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5lhKKKQaGBo/VAFcQ8U-OcI/AAAAAAAAjH0/MZkmlZqsELk/s1600/DSC_3336.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Tomato and herb salad, grilled summer squash, crème fraîche, sesame</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YkLrJOGR2aw/VAFcRAgbT7I/AAAAAAAAjH0/7TsQ96HaiaM/s1600/DSC_3339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YkLrJOGR2aw/VAFcRAgbT7I/AAAAAAAAjH0/7TsQ96HaiaM/s1600/DSC_3339.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled local squid, smoky eggplant, beets, almond, lovage</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tender squid, its tentacles charred and kissed with smoke. The chunky "gremolata" of almonds and lovage put this one over the top - probably a tie with the duck <i>(see below)</i> for my favourite of the night.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIzMy5qjtuA/VAFcUXK44UI/AAAAAAAAjH0/0iR7H9N1Is0/s1600/DSC_3340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIzMy5qjtuA/VAFcUXK44UI/AAAAAAAAjH0/0iR7H9N1Is0/s1600/DSC_3340.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">King trumpet mushrooms, new potatoes, tomato confit</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The mushrooms were cooked in a parcel by the fire. We emptied the parcel, juice and all, over the crispy potatoes and blistered tomato. A generous glug of good olive oil tied the ingredients together - satisfying.<br />
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AUxdzN5ovsM/VAFcVqnma6I/AAAAAAAAjH0/_0hD7pxaEzo/s1600/DSC_3344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AUxdzN5ovsM/VAFcVqnma6I/AAAAAAAAjH0/_0hD7pxaEzo/s1600/DSC_3344.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Peperonata, romano beans, polenta, wild nettles, olives, fire-cooked egg</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E1EqYbAdHNc/VAFcVCNWZJI/AAAAAAAAjH0/Kfga0vdh1iA/s1600/DSC_3343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E1EqYbAdHNc/VAFcVCNWZJI/AAAAAAAAjH0/Kfga0vdh1iA/s1600/DSC_3343.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled duck breast and slow-cooked leg<br />
Red lentils, black kale, cucumbers, preserved lemon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Crispy skin and well-rendered fat - things that so many places seem unable to get right. This breast was perfection, matched only by the equally delicious, fall-apart drumstick. The hefty portion of meat was piled atop a rather spicy lentil purée, whose heat was softened by the raw cucumber. <i>Wonderful</i>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kMHgoz9Cpu0/VAFcY_-14HI/AAAAAAAAjH0/EEl3agJ7rkM/s1600/DSC_3348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kMHgoz9Cpu0/VAFcY_-14HI/AAAAAAAAjH0/EEl3agJ7rkM/s1600/DSC_3348.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Peach cobbler with cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uneDufgIxV8/VAFcWXv44pI/AAAAAAAAjH0/E-XRE_57xX0/s1600/DSC_3346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uneDufgIxV8/VAFcWXv44pI/AAAAAAAAjH0/E-XRE_57xX0/s1600/DSC_3346.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Poached quince, jaggery ice cream, benne seed wafers</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The slightly tart quince, its flesh still firm, offset the <i>sweet</i> jaggery ice cream. Toasted sesame crisps added crunch. Three components - the whole greater than the sum of its parts.<br />
<br />
This is<i> not</i> simple food (I dislike it when people use the term like some sort of throwaway) - every ingredient is thoughtfully considered, every component prepared with precision. I was quite startled by how much intensity there was in every dish - almost a little overwhelming. Yet, there is subtlety in the careful blending of strong flavours (the duck, kale, lentils and preserved lemon comes to mind immediately). The Cal-Mediterranean flavour profile is not something that entices me on a regular basis, but when I'm in the mood, this is where I'd go.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.caminorestaurant.com/">Camino</a><br />
3917 Grand Ave.<br />
Oakland, CA 94610<br />
Phone: (510) 547-5035<br />
<br /></div>
Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-75460979822333228222014-08-27T08:21:00.000-07:002014-08-27T08:21:06.113-07:00The Chef's Tasting at Cowboy Star - San Diego, CA<b>Dinner - Sunday, August 24, 2014</b><br />
<br />
Our third tasting menu at The Cowboy Star brought a number of changes, the most significant of which is that <a href="https://twitter.com/chfosborneknife">Chris Osborne</a> is no longer solely in charge from start to finish. He's relinquished some control, and other cooks are now involved in developing and plating courses.<br />
<br />
<i>NB: Lighting, as usual, was challenging, so I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos.</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCyQwK-jgSI/U_uC-JA8ShI/AAAAAAAAjFY/du_esoHzLvA/s1600/DSC_3311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCyQwK-jgSI/U_uC-JA8ShI/AAAAAAAAjFY/du_esoHzLvA/s1600/DSC_3311.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Concord Cooler"<br />
Concord grape pudding, melon, oyster, Tajin</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Quite an unexpected combination, and a smashing success. A shucked oyster (North Point, I believe) pressed against a neon purple grape pudding, topped with frozen melon rind and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj%C3%ADn_(seasoning)">Tajin seasoning</a>. A bright lemon oil was drizzled over all of this, bridging the sweet and the briny. I definitely did not expect to be wowed by this, but I was.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSlVPJk3tykDCektZXrkDZ8jYXpcf7p00iKcbWDVRZrQKf9k1o7wwuv4vhLtX0dAmGmDJudgjnriDGXReRnXf-bvYwqR-SL1naZ9ARdsB0uYkn60utC00YR92DoUtRg_X0K0dOFVgjJpeZ/s1600/DSC_3314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSlVPJk3tykDCektZXrkDZ8jYXpcf7p00iKcbWDVRZrQKf9k1o7wwuv4vhLtX0dAmGmDJudgjnriDGXReRnXf-bvYwqR-SL1naZ9ARdsB0uYkn60utC00YR92DoUtRg_X0K0dOFVgjJpeZ/s1600/DSC_3314.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Root Candy"<br />
Textures of carrot, blackberry, flaxseed, ricotta, purslane</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QImf8tkOu2M/U_uC-IDtJGI/AAAAAAAAjFY/MRl8Ywgk6Ik/s1600/DSC_3316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QImf8tkOu2M/U_uC-IDtJGI/AAAAAAAAjFY/MRl8Ywgk6Ik/s1600/DSC_3316.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Love Note"<br />
Wagyu carpaccio, Granny Smith apple, toasted milk, saltwort</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Shavings of A5 wagyu nestled against tart apple slices, garnished with saltwort from the coast. At the center of the tent, a quail egg yolk, ready to burst over its support of toasted, powdered milk (which tasted like a Graham cracker crust). With the garnish of finger lime, this dish walked a fine line between sweet and savoury - excellent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yZ2NWHIhfKo/U_uC-w2_7UI/AAAAAAAAjFY/qjJe_IW5rPo/s1600/DSC_3318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yZ2NWHIhfKo/U_uC-w2_7UI/AAAAAAAAjFY/qjJe_IW5rPo/s1600/DSC_3318.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Shell Shock"<br />
Brown butter crab, crab gelée, pickled onion, wild celery</span></i> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdhE_MosrrZsyMl8dk_6h7fA-cmWa8ix_SdTbkXdGGV0IPbnAk0lE7y4Mr3Eux1ARAdOmZ84-sgRSTOG7ZAp7dWnze6GCWKl-eAUD6kEuTAApY158hy2hIvrYQRgf2aVYQdXSTU5G5FfYl/s1600/DSC_3319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdhE_MosrrZsyMl8dk_6h7fA-cmWa8ix_SdTbkXdGGV0IPbnAk0lE7y4Mr3Eux1ARAdOmZ84-sgRSTOG7ZAp7dWnze6GCWKl-eAUD6kEuTAApY158hy2hIvrYQRgf2aVYQdXSTU5G5FfYl/s1600/DSC_3319.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Hawaiian BBQ"<br />
Beef buttercream, rice cake, soy gel, fermented yuzu, fried onions</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k_dXHQDrXqg/U_uC_rMMksI/AAAAAAAAjFY/DrW9DD3koz0/s1600/DSC_3321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k_dXHQDrXqg/U_uC_rMMksI/AAAAAAAAjFY/DrW9DD3koz0/s1600/DSC_3321.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Campground Slumber Party"<br />
Guinea hen, fig, corn</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Oh my, this dish stole our hearts tonight. Grilled breast of guinea hen, accompanied by the deboned thigh, braised with <i>popcorn</i>. The duo of meats sat atop a dab of corn purée - sweet, silky, luxurious. But, the shards of crispy corn meringue are what really made the dish - the closest analog I can think of are sweet prawn crackers, but so much better. Well conceived, very nicely executed - a standout.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-em2xDmuYDv4/U_uDADL8ToI/AAAAAAAAjFY/vS8sCDkKVhk/s1600/DSC_3324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-em2xDmuYDv4/U_uDADL8ToI/AAAAAAAAjFY/vS8sCDkKVhk/s1600/DSC_3324.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Liquid Smoke"<br />
Chickpeas, bacon, tamarind, bonito, preserved lemon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I have a huge weakness for fresh chickpeas. These freshly shucked specimens swam in a warm consommé of bacon, tamarind and bonito - liquid smoke, indeed. Crystals of smoked salt pushed the boundary further, but the preserved lemon kept everything just in check. Great contrasts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lLMbmKXJIAs/U_uDAb5F8TI/AAAAAAAAjFY/QQhSz88nztk/s1600/DSC_3325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lLMbmKXJIAs/U_uDAb5F8TI/AAAAAAAAjFY/QQhSz88nztk/s1600/DSC_3325.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"A Gift from the Kitchen"<br />
Levain, foie gras butter</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhjklUSbcYM/U_uDBYbeiXI/AAAAAAAAjFY/bmgvObEXbiA/s1600/DSC_3328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhjklUSbcYM/U_uDBYbeiXI/AAAAAAAAjFY/bmgvObEXbiA/s1600/DSC_3328.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Parisian in Tokyo"<br />
Yakitori wagyu, sauce hussarde, pickled salad</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wagyu strip, slowly grilled over a shichirin, absorbing the wonderful smoke as we watched intently. Kyoto-style pickles of carrot and watermelon radish on the side, to balance the richness of the meat. And as a base, a <i>classic</i> sauce hussarde, horseradish and prosciutto included - Escoffier would have been proud.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zTWJ0OAhbrs/U_uDCKcw7RI/AAAAAAAAjFY/VNupWKTNehI/s1600/DSC_3329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zTWJ0OAhbrs/U_uDCKcw7RI/AAAAAAAAjFY/VNupWKTNehI/s1600/DSC_3329.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Ice Cream Truck"<br />
Cherry pineapple sherbet, white chocolate, dehydrated pineapple</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1BZdVwkqZs/U_uDCing36I/AAAAAAAAjFY/BQC0wYgOtKI/s1600/DSC_3330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1BZdVwkqZs/U_uDCing36I/AAAAAAAAjFY/BQC0wYgOtKI/s1600/DSC_3330.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Nectarine<br />
Sweet tea granita, oat brittle, mint, lemon curd</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our final dessert was not named - a spontaneous gift from the kitchen. Nectarine sorbet, melting and melding with a sweet tea granita - an age-old pairing. A warming oat brittle lent texture and earthiness to complement the colder ingredients. A perfect finisher.<br />
<br />
The end result of more hands - a tasting menu that trades some cohesiveness for a more free-wheeling, whimsical approach. I particularly enjoyed the offerings from the chef who has taken over dessert duties, though I suspect I don't follow all her cultural references. At $150 per person, this was not a cheap meal, but it's nice to see (and support) cooking of this level in San Diego. We anticipate a return in the colder months, when game will make an appearance on the menu.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.thecowboystar.com/">Cowboy Star</a><br />
640 10th Ave.<br />
San Diego, CA 92101<br />
Phone: (619) 450-5880Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-59424270797267882962014-07-27T16:59:00.000-07:002014-07-27T16:59:10.525-07:00Taco Maria - Costa Mesa, CA<b>Dinner - Friday, July 25, 2014</b><br />
<b><br />
</b> When <a href="https://twitter.com/c_salgado">Carlos Salgado</a> decamped from Oakland's <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2010/11/commis-oakland-ca.html">Commis</a> some years ago, it made me sad - this was a man who was responsible for one of my favourite desserts of 2010. Then I heard he was moving to Southern California to run a food truck, and hope returned. Yet, as with many things, I never found the time. Indeed, it took four years, the opening of Salgado's brick-and-mortar location, and some pictures from <a href="http://instagram.com/treyfoshee">Trey Foshee</a> to prod me into action.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
We stopped for dinner on the way up to LA. The small restaurant offers a 4-course prix fixe, with two choices per course. We ordered one of each, covering the whole menu. All I can say is, I am <i>so glad</i> that we finally managed to visit.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r_SSrBBYnVk/U9NLFX9ZViI/AAAAAAAAi_I/DUQASIr8KbI/s1600/DSC_3275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r_SSrBBYnVk/U9NLFX9ZViI/AAAAAAAAi_I/DUQASIr8KbI/s1600/DSC_3275.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Guacamole in the Japanese style"<br />
Furikake, garlic chives, shiso</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In lieu of bread, the kitchen sends out chips and dip - here, thick corn chips dusted with seaweed, served with a thick guacamole <i>a la Japonais</i>. Furikake is good on everything, so why not? The combination was fun and delicious (really, it's too bad they don't offer unlimited refills).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tezSWGFDOuE/U9NLFtynkAI/AAAAAAAAi_I/YpHhfjMQmgg/s1600/DSC_3278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tezSWGFDOuE/U9NLFtynkAI/AAAAAAAAi_I/YpHhfjMQmgg/s1600/DSC_3278.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Carne Apache"<br />
Serrano, lime, crisp rice, egg yolk</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finely minced beef heart tartare, spread thin. Great, beefy taste balanced by the equally bold acid and heat. Relatively simple, but a very nicely seasoned dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NZ268pH1FOg/U9NLDy61s3I/AAAAAAAAi_I/F6GODY58GeI/s1600/DSC_3279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NZ268pH1FOg/U9NLDy61s3I/AAAAAAAAi_I/F6GODY58GeI/s1600/DSC_3279.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Papalos"<br />
Harry's tomatoes, queso fresco, avocado</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Beautiful</i>. Bright papalo (butterfly herb) leaves, flitting about a garden of baby tomatoes and avocado mousse. The herb has a peppery, punchy flavour - I've heard it can be challenging to some, but I've seen it used fairly liberally in tacos or sandwiches. The tomatoes were the best I've had this summer, just bursting with sweetness. Beneath the garden lay a mound of creamy queso fresco - I suppose that makes this a Chicano caprese.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrHyk7mzqhuiH_pxtrrl2sZmcUOWVauCJdT1-soT8yqsiRV7aKyxrnwmLpsn7qNIQzn2OE_n90s9uUfG7DiNVqNyM7kOHl81FIOK51ENln4VYtCNXfV__PNuxHL-SOu0x9Cs8iKytBBzN/s1600/DSC_3281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrHyk7mzqhuiH_pxtrrl2sZmcUOWVauCJdT1-soT8yqsiRV7aKyxrnwmLpsn7qNIQzn2OE_n90s9uUfG7DiNVqNyM7kOHl81FIOK51ENln4VYtCNXfV__PNuxHL-SOu0x9Cs8iKytBBzN/s1600/DSC_3281.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Gazpacho verde"<br />
Cucumber, avocado, fennel, hyssop, blueberry</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NGP1c77kpC4/U9NLbyxgonI/AAAAAAAAi_I/sv3CUIyT7_Y/s1600/DSC_3280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NGP1c77kpC4/U9NLbyxgonI/AAAAAAAAi_I/sv3CUIyT7_Y/s1600/DSC_3280.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Taco de Calemares"<br />
Local squid, spot prawn, peanuts, chile-lime, purslane</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The squid ink tortilla was expertly made - supple, flavourful, <i>sturdy</i>. Still, the fillings made for a few messy, but delicious bites. The contrast between the fleshy purslane, crunchy peanuts and seafood was especially delightful.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0GPzG1ZpYFk/U9NLiwrlBxI/AAAAAAAAi_I/-ZXa6GyhNSE/s1600/DSC_3284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0GPzG1ZpYFk/U9NLiwrlBxI/AAAAAAAAi_I/-ZXa6GyhNSE/s1600/DSC_3284.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Pescado al Pastor"<br />
White sea bass, citrus, braised lettuce, squash blossoms, tomatillos</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8w14HvveXtE/U9NL3xGwJUI/AAAAAAAAi_I/mftu384n8P0/s1600/DSC_3285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8w14HvveXtE/U9NL3xGwJUI/AAAAAAAAi_I/mftu384n8P0/s1600/DSC_3285.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Tomatillos fritos"<br />
Fried tomatillos, cotija, chipil</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kYSIMKqCCVA/U9NL6_c4TkI/AAAAAAAAi_I/c9totBCkN2A/s1600/DSC_3286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kYSIMKqCCVA/U9NL6_c4TkI/AAAAAAAAi_I/c9totBCkN2A/s1600/DSC_3286.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Lomo de Puerco"<br />
Shelling beans, lavender, quelites</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the cooks spent the evening devotedly grilling pork loins to perfection in front of our eyes - note the slight rosiness of the meat. <i>Quelites</i> is an umbrella term for a number of Mexican greens - tonight, I actually believe we were served radishes. The tender beans soaked up the porky (but light) broth - indeed, the whole dish was bright and refreshing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CLbHZN9FtMQ/U9NL6bLGSUI/AAAAAAAAi_I/oBUIB5-Abxw/s1600/DSC_3287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CLbHZN9FtMQ/U9NL6bLGSUI/AAAAAAAAi_I/oBUIB5-Abxw/s1600/DSC_3287.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Mole de Pintada"<br />
Carrots, fig, nasturtium</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Ah, the <i>pièce de résistance</i>! Roasted guinea hen, crisp skin and all, atop a deep, earthy, thick mole. The mole was <i>so good</i> - a touch of heat, just enough to tantalize, with a panoply of spices lurking below the surface, none able to dominate the others. For sweetness, there were dried, wizened carrots - concentrated essence. A great meat course.<br />
<br />
And with the delivery of some poppy seed brittle, the meal was over. No desserts from the humble Mr. Salgado these days, although there is hardly space for pastry, with just 3 or 4 cooks slinging dishes in the small kitchen - I loved the bare-bones cooking. No fuss or pretension - this is Costa Mesa, after all. A better deal would be hard to find. I hope to make it back here in short order.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://tacomaria.com/">Taco Maria</a><br />
3313 Hyland Ave.<br />
Costa Mesa, CA 92626<br />
Phone: (714) 538-8444<br />
<br />Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-53221952755653391892014-06-01T10:14:00.000-07:002014-06-01T10:14:33.035-07:00Central - Lima, Peru<b>Dinner - Friday, May 9, 2014</b><br />
<br />
Rarely, a meal changes the way you think about food. For me, the most recent place that has succeeded in this regard was Saison (ca. 2011). And now, <a href="https://twitter.com/VirgilioCentral">Virgilio Martinez</a> has done it. This was a truly fantastic meal - every aspect carefully considered, every bite delicious. Central was, far and away, the best meal we had in Peru.<br />
<br />
Like many of the modern high-end kitchens, Central has a research team - here, it is the <i>Mater Iniciativa </i>(read their blog/field notes <a href="http://www.materiniciativa.com/en/field-notes/">here</a>), devoted to rediscovering the ingredients of Peru and "linking the cultural and biological diversity of Peru with the culinary experience". It is the Mater's discoveries that drive Martinez's sophisticated, thoughtful cuisine. Tonight, the theme of our menu was <i>Elevations</i> - each dish a slice of Peru's many ecosystems, spanning the waters of the Pacific coast to the snow-capped Andean peaks.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZFAXgn_AEE/U261i8RIcmI/AAAAAAAAilc/pHcDDiDIj90/s1600/DSC_3102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZFAXgn_AEE/U261i8RIcmI/AAAAAAAAilc/pHcDDiDIj90/s1600/DSC_3102.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"The Sixty-mile Fish" (-5 m)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;">Squid, huarango, clam</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The huarango tree, native to the dry southern regions of Peru, produces a sweet maple-like sap. Here, it accented the natural sweetness of the raw seafood with some earthiness - a great start.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mR8pLG7foEM/U261ls84gTI/AAAAAAAAilc/rOmgM6nlbFg/s1600/DSC_3105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mR8pLG7foEM/U261ls84gTI/AAAAAAAAilc/rOmgM6nlbFg/s1600/DSC_3105.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Orchard of Mala" (290 m)<br />
Radish, sacha inchi leche de tigre</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
An exquisite radish from the gardens of Mala (just south of Lima) sat in a shotglass of leche de tigre infused with <i>sacha inchi </i>seeds, which lent a nutty, slightly roasty flavour. The acidity of the lime in the tiger's milk was bracing - an interesting contrast with the sweetness of the previous course.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oleT2OwPtv8/U261k49lSiI/AAAAAAAAilc/FYlMPG3QCAc/s1600/DSC_3106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oleT2OwPtv8/U261k49lSiI/AAAAAAAAilc/FYlMPG3QCAc/s1600/DSC_3106.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Dry Andes" (3200 m)<br />
Chaco clay, citrus flower</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now this was <i>fascinating</i> - edible clay from the plains of Chaco, served cold. It was sweet (I was assured this is natural), slightly gritty (as one might expect) and tasted of black sesame. Certainly the first time I've been so happy to eat dirt.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AX_Z7UdJudw/U262FzzmliI/AAAAAAAAilc/_XO_qO5AkBw/s1600/DSC_3108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AX_Z7UdJudw/U262FzzmliI/AAAAAAAAilc/_XO_qO5AkBw/s1600/DSC_3108.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Four-month Tuber" (120 m)<br />Sweet potato, chamomile petal</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To contrast the Chaco clay, <i>hot</i> cubes of a native potato variety, dried in the kitchen for 4 months before roasting - very creamy, with a concentrated yam-like flavour.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yWNv1WdrBnA/U262OX63FJI/AAAAAAAAilc/WoZdyQaPcH0/s1600/DSC_3111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yWNv1WdrBnA/U262OX63FJI/AAAAAAAAilc/WoZdyQaPcH0/s1600/DSC_3111.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Diversity of Corn" (1800 m)<br />
Four corns, three textures</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gzFNellsKMQ/U262IElVDCI/AAAAAAAAilc/VSGj9O4dU2M/s1600/DSC_3110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gzFNellsKMQ/U262IElVDCI/AAAAAAAAilc/VSGj9O4dU2M/s1600/DSC_3110.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Moraya of Paucartambo" (3900 m)<br />
Wild muña, veal heart</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Imagine the most intense mint you've ever tasted. Now, triple that and you may approximate our encounter with muña. This potent herb, innocently dubbed "Andean mint", was remarkably balanced by shavings of dried veal heart.<br />
<br />
<i>NB: the name of the dish refers to the white "rocks" underneath, which are actually tubers. The indigenous people of Paucartambo subject these tubers to repeated day-night cycles of freeze-thawing to break down the bitter glycoalkaloids within. Alternately placing them in an icy river, then allowing them to dry/thaw in sunlight results in dehydration and sun-bleaching, producing the bone-white appearance of the moraya. The samples here were not edible.</i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SPLSL99buMM/U2624uawBdI/AAAAAAAAilc/dbrzPPCIbSA/s1600/DSC_3114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SPLSL99buMM/U2624uawBdI/AAAAAAAAilc/dbrzPPCIbSA/s1600/DSC_3114.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"High Jungle" (1250 m)<br />
Yacon, egg yolk, coffee</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Coffee crisps were embedded in a rich egg yolk cream - almost a dessert. These were accompanied by cubes of yacon, a jicama-like root vegetable with a more complex, estery flavour. Pure Amazonian ingredients.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eJ_5ivBVEmo/U2622UeGmTI/AAAAAAAAilc/Y5-BlpbnOCA/s1600/DSC_3112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eJ_5ivBVEmo/U2622UeGmTI/AAAAAAAAilc/Y5-BlpbnOCA/s1600/DSC_3112.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Tree Root and Leaf" (450 m)<br />
Hearts of palm, macambo</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zX16ziKmEA8/U263cdEXPVI/AAAAAAAAilc/Nk5s2lSVSPw/s1600/DSC_3122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zX16ziKmEA8/U263cdEXPVI/AAAAAAAAilc/Nk5s2lSVSPw/s1600/DSC_3122.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Harvest of Scallops" (0 m)<br />
Kañihua, tumbo, starflower</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Local scallops, coated in crunchy kañihua (a grain from the quinoa family), were very similar to bay scallops - I generally prefer their larger cousins. These were accompanied by a floral sauce made from tumbo, the banana passionfruit.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zImEbyPcrGg/U2629AcgGeI/AAAAAAAAilc/DIDq3M8A4xE/s1600/DSC_3115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zImEbyPcrGg/U2629AcgGeI/AAAAAAAAilc/DIDq3M8A4xE/s1600/DSC_3115.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Coca leaf bread, toasted butter</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MZYm-ZlDLOs/U263boqDuwI/AAAAAAAAilc/NHnFT8PbbSk/s1600/DSC_3116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MZYm-ZlDLOs/U263boqDuwI/AAAAAAAAilc/NHnFT8PbbSk/s1600/DSC_3116.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Potato bread</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v09chjIFxqA/U263jvJuiqI/AAAAAAAAilc/mzeWaamWZAc/s1600/DSC_3117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v09chjIFxqA/U263jvJuiqI/AAAAAAAAilc/mzeWaamWZAc/s1600/DSC_3117.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Airampo bread</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I only mention bread service when it's very good, and these breads were excellent. All three types were served together, with a side of creamy <i>browned butter </i>(it was amazing - why haven't more restaurants picked up on this?). The <i>airampo</i> (prickly purple pear) bread elicited comparisons to cranberry, but the herbal coca bread was our favourite - a thin, crispy crust that cracked to yield a moist, still-steaming interior.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9mEprz0xC_o/U264B_P4FOI/AAAAAAAAilc/QO3hTNEZH3w/s1600/DSC_3125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9mEprz0xC_o/U264B_P4FOI/AAAAAAAAilc/QO3hTNEZH3w/s1600/DSC_3125.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Red Amazon" (148 m)<br />
Arapaima, huito, airampo</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Arapaima</i> (a freshwater fish better known to us North Americans as paiche) was marinated in purple-red <i>airampo</i> juice and dressed with a hearts of palm cream - nicely balanced. The jet-black sauce is the oxidized juice of the <i>huito</i> fruit, produced by wrapping and cooking it in banana leaf.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2yGNiTQap24/U264IKSkoYI/AAAAAAAAilc/Q7xl3gxaYcc/s1600/DSC_3132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2yGNiTQap24/U264IKSkoYI/AAAAAAAAilc/Q7xl3gxaYcc/s1600/DSC_3132.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Valley Between the Andes" (2750 m)<br />
Avocado, tree tomato, kiwicha, beet powder</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pY8n0nUJI3g/U264RIfD4dI/AAAAAAAAilc/C6mUfAEFkRo/s1600/DSC_3136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pY8n0nUJI3g/U264RIfD4dI/AAAAAAAAilc/C6mUfAEFkRo/s1600/DSC_3136.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Coastal proximity" (0 m)<br />
Octopus, purple corn, limo chili</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CSyyLFfkMlM/U264qicBMXI/AAAAAAAAilc/Zm2JHbSxtRQ/s1600/DSC_3137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CSyyLFfkMlM/U264qicBMXI/AAAAAAAAilc/Zm2JHbSxtRQ/s1600/DSC_3137.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Purple corn broth</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Really</i> great octopus - a hard sear accenting the slightly toothsome meat. A disc of mashed corn was sweet, contrasting the more sour sauce. The warm broth had a touch of heat from the chili - damn good with the components on the plate.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2PRjTPkqmus/U2642kAmfzI/AAAAAAAAilc/vkRnKlpHAYk/s1600/DSC_3145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2PRjTPkqmus/U2642kAmfzI/AAAAAAAAilc/vkRnKlpHAYk/s1600/DSC_3145.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Extreme altitude" (4100 m)<br />
Frozen potato, cushuro, mullaca, chincho</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A ridiculously thick potato purée was topped with pearls of <i><a href="http://www.materiniciativa.com/en/the-bacteria-of-our-altitude/">cushuro</a></i> - each sphere is a colony of cyanobacteria, which grow at high altitude (above 10,000 feet) in springs and pools. They tasted quite neutral, although the "pop" of each ball was fun. The punchiness in the dish came from the medicinal <i>mullaca</i> powder and bright green aromatic <i>chincho</i> leaves. A little goes a <i>long</i> way with these native herbs.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0tvzj7rCLo/U2645jqIIfI/AAAAAAAAilc/NE_EZeuG9cI/s1600/DSC_3148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0tvzj7rCLo/U2645jqIIfI/AAAAAAAAilc/NE_EZeuG9cI/s1600/DSC_3148.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Altiplano and Lakes" (3900 m)<br />
Lamb, wild mustard, black quinoa</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tender, gamey lamb, peeking out from under shards of crisp lamb's milk skin - about as good as it gets when it comes to meat courses. The adjacent pool comprised firm black quinoa grains, and a sauce of their greens - a great counterpoint to the rich, meaty side of the plate.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KjfghvQFgAs/U265T1FVHsI/AAAAAAAAilc/KYXMQRUK2kk/s1600/DSC_3152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KjfghvQFgAs/U265T1FVHsI/AAAAAAAAilc/KYXMQRUK2kk/s1600/DSC_3152.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Untamed Jungle" (145 m)<br />
Bahuaja nut, camu camu, huampo</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Cubes of ice cream made from toasted Brazil nuts (<i>Bahuaja</i> refers to the Bahuaja Sonene National Park, which yields nuts of particularly high quality) had a mysterious but very alluring flavour. Crisps of burnt Brazil nut chips covered some tangy <i>camu camu</i> (famous among health food advocates for having a super-high Vitamin C content). The most intriguing part of the dish was the green sorbet, made tableside by <i>scraping</i> the frozen bark of the huampo plant - again, the flavour was entirely unfamiliar and best described as "medicinal".<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5FWNyFe12yA/U265cBhfgsI/AAAAAAAAilc/PPb9JiQBcrc/s1600/DSC_3155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5FWNyFe12yA/U265cBhfgsI/AAAAAAAAilc/PPb9JiQBcrc/s1600/DSC_3155.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Coca Forest" (845 m)<br />
Cherimoya, coca leaf, theobromas</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9UXoXCg-PSk/U265aAI62_I/AAAAAAAAilc/8afErx1ndqk/s1600/DSC_3157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9UXoXCg-PSk/U265aAI62_I/AAAAAAAAilc/8afErx1ndqk/s1600/DSC_3157.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cold-brewed coffee</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-25pLbyOAJh0/U2650Ea3h8I/AAAAAAAAilc/Ve_xke79qQg/s1600/DSC_3158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-25pLbyOAJh0/U2650Ea3h8I/AAAAAAAAilc/Ve_xke79qQg/s1600/DSC_3158.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Cacao Solar Infusion" (450 m)<br />
Stevia, culen, sisal</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The restaurant is quite proud of its rooftop reverse osmosis water filtration system (I'm not sure I recall any other place that charges as much as Central for house water, which peeved me a bit). The infusion tasted predominantly like a chocolate tea (which seems to be quite popular here, based on the number of places we saw it), made by steeping cacao shells in water. I couldn't discern the other herbs clearly, since I have not had <i>culen</i> or <i>sisal </i>in isolation.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L5h1jPj-_d4/U266S4Fj_QI/AAAAAAAAilc/c66Yb0qDXts/s1600/DSC_3161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L5h1jPj-_d4/U266S4Fj_QI/AAAAAAAAilc/c66Yb0qDXts/s1600/DSC_3161.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Algarrobina bonbon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A very popular flavouring agent in Peru, <i>algarrobina</i> (black carob syrup) is evidently commonly used as a chocolate substitute, although they do not taste alike to me. Actually, this bonbon was better than the vast majority of chocolate-based versions I've had - great texture and a more complex sweetness.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ob-KzjKGhGY/U26536laJaI/AAAAAAAAilc/hK2an-vEeqo/s1600/DSC_3160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ob-KzjKGhGY/U26536laJaI/AAAAAAAAilc/hK2an-vEeqo/s1600/DSC_3160.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Pisco sour jelly</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FlVlxg1pSjU/U266HEQ5QTI/AAAAAAAAilc/I6h3DJmff4Q/s1600/DSC_3159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FlVlxg1pSjU/U266HEQ5QTI/AAAAAAAAilc/I6h3DJmff4Q/s1600/DSC_3159.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Cocoa</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a5l9epBVJ_A/U266neXkcdI/AAAAAAAAilc/gcB1hLFPTMw/s1600/DSC_3163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a5l9epBVJ_A/U266neXkcdI/AAAAAAAAilc/gcB1hLFPTMw/s1600/DSC_3163.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">The rooftop garden</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We received a tour of the rooftop garden and kitchen after dinner, meeting Virgilio Martinez and part of the Mater team (according to the kitchen crew, Martinez practically lives at the restaurant). It's hard not to be enamored with what they're doing - the passion, curiosity and pride in this kitchen is palpable. Others have undoubtedly paved the way for them, but I suspect the team at Central is now leading the charge of modern Peruvian cuisine. I wish these guys the very best - this was a meal that will be engraved in my memory for a long time to come.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://centralrestaurante.com.pe/">Central</a><br />
Ca. Santa Isabel 376<br />
Miraflores, Lima<br />
Peru<br />
Phone: +51 (1) 242-8515Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-30668824683023257112014-05-21T09:33:00.000-07:002014-05-21T09:33:35.630-07:00Virú at Astrid & Gastón - Lima, Peru<b>Lunch - Saturday, May 10, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fpglb1EVjoU/U26_M52EBJI/AAAAAAAAimw/uH5XnNbvU0g/s1600/DSC_3168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fpglb1EVjoU/U26_M52EBJI/AAAAAAAAimw/uH5XnNbvU0g/s1600/DSC_3168.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
2014 marks the twentieth anniversary of Astrid & Gastón - the first child in what is now a globe-spanning empire. The restaurant, formerly situtated in Lima's Miraflores neighborhood, recently completed a move to the Casa Moreyra, a grand 300-year old house in the neighbouring (and equally upscale) San Isidro district.<br />
<br />
To mark this new beginning, Virú is the theme of the restaurant's first tasting menu at Casa Moreyra - a journey through the five macroclimates of Peru in 26 courses. Gastón Acurio <i>was</i> overseeing the kitchen on this day - I gather this is fairly rare, and primarily due to the temporary absence of Diego Munoz.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nf3wZgeoonM/U26-6vjEh0I/AAAAAAAAimY/slz3MR0h5BA/s1600/DSC_3185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nf3wZgeoonM/U26-6vjEh0I/AAAAAAAAimY/slz3MR0h5BA/s1600/DSC_3185.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A dedicated kitchen that prepares the Virú menu</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
Casa Moreyra is elegant and minimalist, all shades of white and grey, punctuated by polished wood and the bright greens of the kitchen garden. The property has multiple independent kitchens, one of which serves the current tasting menu. Our meal began with snacks on the patio, and then transitioned indoors.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Casa Hacienda Moreyra</b><br />
<b><br />
</b></div>
</div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xM92yCGt8kw/U3BUslrOeMI/AAAAAAAAivE/yRUBf9OGDNw/s1600/DSC_3173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xM92yCGt8kw/U3BUslrOeMI/AAAAAAAAivE/yRUBf9OGDNw/s1600/DSC_3173.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Spirit"<br />
Whiskey, Grand Marnier, Drambuie, Cynar</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K4HyyFxEXJw/U3BUtWXUoWI/AAAAAAAAivE/1bWeDHZELpE/s1600/DSC_3176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K4HyyFxEXJw/U3BUtWXUoWI/AAAAAAAAivE/1bWeDHZELpE/s1600/DSC_3176.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Roots and herbs"<br />
Herb crisps, tomato butter, charred tomato skin</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uKbRnEjNmy4/U3BUu7Q0dMI/AAAAAAAAivE/hPn1QoFzTek/s1600/DSC_3179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uKbRnEjNmy4/U3BUu7Q0dMI/AAAAAAAAivE/hPn1QoFzTek/s1600/DSC_3179.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Carrots, ink</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Charred baby carrots set on top of a thick, peaty, squid ink sauce. Simple, but excellent flavours.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kpyfg_hwMlI/U3BUvtiN9CI/AAAAAAAAivE/nGSKWDlXhls/s1600/DSC_3180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kpyfg_hwMlI/U3BUvtiN9CI/AAAAAAAAivE/nGSKWDlXhls/s1600/DSC_3180.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Fried black olives, chili, pickled onion</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t7rjKnr9sG0/U3BUvkCughI/AAAAAAAAivE/_n-FfOcJ9uk/s1600/DSC_3181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t7rjKnr9sG0/U3BUvkCughI/AAAAAAAAivE/_n-FfOcJ9uk/s1600/DSC_3181.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Anticucheras skins"<br />
Chicken, pork, fish</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Each delicate wafer was topped with two sauces - roasted chili, and a buttery, garlicky potato cream. Not even the slightest hint of grease - all three skins were crispy and very, <i>very</i> good.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>The Pacific Ocean</b><br />
<b><br />
</b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wSpbQVFOPWo/U3BUyUR54FI/AAAAAAAAivE/VTT4xogn6VI/s1600/DSC_3189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wSpbQVFOPWo/U3BUyUR54FI/AAAAAAAAivE/VTT4xogn6VI/s1600/DSC_3189.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Seaweed, sea prawn, anchovy</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A pleasant trio of savory bites. First, a crispy tangle of seaweed topped with peach cream. Then, a tartare of sea prawn topped with some sort of pickled vegetable. Finally, my favourite, an anchovy <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfajor">alfajor</a> - intensely salty and sweet.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RuM8FPkK1Ek/U3BUyry6NgI/AAAAAAAAivE/bbeKXEzIQnw/s1600/DSC_3190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RuM8FPkK1Ek/U3BUyry6NgI/AAAAAAAAivE/bbeKXEzIQnw/s1600/DSC_3190.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Melon, uni, clam</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KpHXy_2y_0s/U3BUy0BuE0I/AAAAAAAAivE/1yhX0rHM9gw/s1600/DSC_3191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KpHXy_2y_0s/U3BUy0BuE0I/AAAAAAAAivE/1yhX0rHM9gw/s1600/DSC_3191.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Pisco beach"<br />
Scallops, chili, yogurt, coffee</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Covered by a shower of "sandy" breadcrumbs, the raw scallops went nicely with the spicy chili and roasted coffee. To my surprise, the dry/wet ratio of the ingredients was actually quite well calibrated - a considerable textural achievement.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ut8BAFHIlzg/U3BUz3z2L2I/AAAAAAAAivE/5lJg0ndXkgQ/s1600/DSC_3192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ut8BAFHIlzg/U3BUz3z2L2I/AAAAAAAAivE/5lJg0ndXkgQ/s1600/DSC_3192.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Lobster, pacae, maca</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sweet raw lobster, paired with a mayonnaise of its roe - very tasty. A sprinkle of togarashi and red oxalis provided contrast to the marine flavours. A tuile of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lepidium_meyenii" style="font-style: italic;">maca</a>, a native Peruvian radish-like vegetable was spongy rather than crisp - I found this a little disconcerting. My favorite element was the fluffy white balls of <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inga_feuilleei">pacae</a></i>, a sweet legume also known as the "ice cream bean" - the essence of the tropics.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>The Desert</b></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gLhg5mWL-m0/U3BU1NUANOI/AAAAAAAAivE/__61W93_rPY/s1600/DSC_3194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gLhg5mWL-m0/U3BU1NUANOI/AAAAAAAAivE/__61W93_rPY/s1600/DSC_3194.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Memories of Cantalloc"</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Pisco, pumpkin, coca leaf, cotton candy</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The aqueducts of Cantalloc are a relic of the Nazca civilization - over 1500 years old, and many still in working condition today. Our spiral serving vessels are a mirror image of the ancient stone wells used to access these water sources (note the deep blue at the bottom of the bowl). Diluted pisco was poured into the groove, melting a cloud of cotton candy and carrying the sweetened liquid down, down, down into the pool of fruits and herbs. We were given a spoon to eat the solids, and a straw to finish up - delicious and rather cute.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbZBmZgNvpA/U3BU1eMRnfI/AAAAAAAAivE/R7BTARJfCqE/s1600/DSC_3199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbZBmZgNvpA/U3BU1eMRnfI/AAAAAAAAivE/R7BTARJfCqE/s1600/DSC_3199.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Southern asparagus"<br />
Asparagus, parmesan, frozen egg yolk</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Asparagus is a hardy plant and fares quite well under arid conditions - these specimens were from the coastal deserts in the south of Peru. A tried-and-true combination of flavours, although I felt that the frozen egg yolk missed the mark.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Em_TD6kIVLU/U3BU162YkeI/AAAAAAAAivE/dDcW6sVPZ_w/s1600/DSC_3202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Em_TD6kIVLU/U3BU162YkeI/AAAAAAAAivE/dDcW6sVPZ_w/s1600/DSC_3202.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mackerel escabeche<br />
Tomato, seaweed, onion</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The fish was <i>fantastic</i> - supple flesh packed with an <i>incredible</i> amount of flavour, heightened by the sweet and sour of the tomato. Crisp wafers of seaweed provided a nice foil to the soft mackerel, while the thick and very umami onion gel added an otherworldly unctuousness (yes, I used that word).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-82EFHLV2bQ8/U3BU3rQjO5I/AAAAAAAAivE/Xi9nWBX6v7k/s1600/DSC_3204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-82EFHLV2bQ8/U3BU3rQjO5I/AAAAAAAAivE/Xi9nWBX6v7k/s1600/DSC_3204.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Crab, stinging nettle, rice, coconut milk</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b>The Andes</b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lnqm7-tVT7g/U3BU4E0hA8I/AAAAAAAAivE/-vbs7rxxz5I/s1600/DSC_3205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lnqm7-tVT7g/U3BU4E0hA8I/AAAAAAAAivE/-vbs7rxxz5I/s1600/DSC_3205.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Andean cheese, corn silk, rocoto chili crisp</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CXO93Z2fJSY/U3BU4ZEKmiI/AAAAAAAAivE/6PkmEqtcLHc/s1600/DSC_3206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CXO93Z2fJSY/U3BU4ZEKmiI/AAAAAAAAivE/6PkmEqtcLHc/s1600/DSC_3206.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Butter-poached purple potato, torched hollandaise</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ccE6GSwPViU/U3BU6ukC5vI/AAAAAAAAivE/FqXHfR_mnpk/s1600/DSC_3209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ccE6GSwPViU/U3BU6ukC5vI/AAAAAAAAivE/FqXHfR_mnpk/s1600/DSC_3209.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>"Sacred coca"</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pachamanca"><i>Pachamanca</i></a> is a Quechua word that refers to both a traditional Andean dish, and the celebration that typically revolves around it. During a Pachamanca (and indeed, on many other occasions), Peruvians chew coca leaves as part of the festivities. To bring some of this old ritual into the dining room, we were each presented with a single dried, sweetened coca leaf, and instructed to eat it while our server prepared the Pachamanca tableside.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dUvUBygmplI/U3BVAHGhzuI/AAAAAAAAivE/a8YWQSuP22Q/s1600/DSC_3207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dUvUBygmplI/U3BVAHGhzuI/AAAAAAAAivE/a8YWQSuP22Q/s1600/DSC_3207.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Opening the huatia</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--WBEwJBXaWg/U3BU7SO3_VI/AAAAAAAAivE/lypNDo6zAwk/s1600/DSC_3210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--WBEwJBXaWg/U3BU7SO3_VI/AAAAAAAAivE/lypNDo6zAwk/s1600/DSC_3210.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Potatoes baked in a huatia</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DY8gprS2-NM/U3BU6P1iw2I/AAAAAAAAivE/TXh3SnoFEN8/s1600/DSC_3208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DY8gprS2-NM/U3BU6P1iw2I/AAAAAAAAivE/TXh3SnoFEN8/s1600/DSC_3208.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Cuy, potato, alpaca, chaco, Andean cheese</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Pachamanca was prepared in a dirt oven called a <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huatia">huatia</a> </i>- inside, baby potatoes, oiled and salted. To accompany the potatoes, we were served five bites arranged on a red tile <i>(clockwise from bottom-left)</i> - fried alpaca skin on chaco, roasted <i>cuy </i>(guinea pig), crispy potato skin on mushroom sauce, fresh cheese with green onions, and fresh cheese with rocoto. At this point in the trip, I had tired of cuy, but enjoyed the salty alpaca skin and the sharpness of the cheeses.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGthumjWZCs/U3BU8eMtHbI/AAAAAAAAivE/kzxvGRL3sWk/s1600/DSC_3214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGthumjWZCs/U3BU8eMtHbI/AAAAAAAAivE/kzxvGRL3sWk/s1600/DSC_3214.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Frutillada, molle</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A classic drink in Cusco and its surroundings, frutillada tastes of lightly fermented corn (<i>chica</i>), the effervescence blending with the pop of fresh strawberries. In Cusco, we had it in <i>giant</i> mugs, easily enough for three. At Astrid & Gastón, this was elegantly recapitulated with our shaven glass. The concentrated, frothy frutillada was spiked with <i>molle</i> (commonly called pink peppercorns, although not a true pepper), giving it a rather pleasant zing.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>The Altiplano</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--WE2Vz1xfSc/U3BU9SfnznI/AAAAAAAAivE/uBlRZ55T_yM/s1600/DSC_3215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--WE2Vz1xfSc/U3BU9SfnznI/AAAAAAAAivE/uBlRZ55T_yM/s1600/DSC_3215.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Quinoa sprouts and leaves<br />
Chili, mushrooms</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgGw565m2X4/U3BU90GcGHI/AAAAAAAAivE/JAEwEmVkz7I/s1600/DSC_3217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgGw565m2X4/U3BU90GcGHI/AAAAAAAAivE/JAEwEmVkz7I/s1600/DSC_3217.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Trout, cherimoya, duck sauce</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Other examples of cooked river trout we'd eaten so far in Peru have had an unpleasant hint of muddiness - not so here. The fish was fantastic, and the combination with the rich duck jus and the floral cherimoya, inspired.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t5JZLCI3Rp8/U3BU-vgHb5I/AAAAAAAAivE/lYYoA-f92XE/s1600/DSC_3219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t5JZLCI3Rp8/U3BU-vgHb5I/AAAAAAAAivE/lYYoA-f92XE/s1600/DSC_3219.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Beef shank</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Bone marrow, watercress, mustard seed</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfdpcJ5Jp7I/U3BU_qb6_AI/AAAAAAAAivE/nH0gx5ltzp0/s1600/DSC_3221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfdpcJ5Jp7I/U3BU_qb6_AI/AAAAAAAAivE/nH0gx5ltzp0/s1600/DSC_3221.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lamb, sage, oca</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>The Amazon</b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c2yC2ZjOX14/U3BVAlB_yDI/AAAAAAAAivE/35Z5SJzxUwE/s1600/DSC_3222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c2yC2ZjOX14/U3BVAlB_yDI/AAAAAAAAivE/35Z5SJzxUwE/s1600/DSC_3222.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Toasted pig jowl, sachaculantro, charapita</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The best of the meat courses. The caramelized pig jowl played well with vanilla-dusted fava beans - something that could easily be overdone, but executed perfectly here. A spicy brunoise of charapita chilis helped balance the fat from the pork. Finally, a surprising element - an herbacious sachaculantro ice cream, redolent of cilantro without the undertones of soapiness. <i>NB: apparently in Peru, "cilantro" is called "culantro", hence true "culantro" is known as "sachaculantro".</i></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U1pRdwj02aE/U3BVBgSlY1I/AAAAAAAAivE/_LXFg12ys6A/s1600/DSC_3223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U1pRdwj02aE/U3BVBgSlY1I/AAAAAAAAivE/_LXFg12ys6A/s1600/DSC_3223.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Cocoa bonbon</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZniisFDZxA/U3BVCwahbTI/AAAAAAAAivE/Dl1JBrWusJ8/s1600/DSC_3227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZniisFDZxA/U3BVCwahbTI/AAAAAAAAivE/Dl1JBrWusJ8/s1600/DSC_3227.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Aguaje, lucuma, purple corn</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
A showcase of Amazonian fruits, this dessert really constrasted the firm <i>aguaje</i> (which reminded me of a sweetened carrot) and custardy, caramel-tasting <i>lucuma </i>(hugely popular in Peru). The fruits were covered in a shower of frozen purple corn, by now a flavour quite familiar to us. Excellent.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_O0ld_cS_wg/U3BVDvZ7sgI/AAAAAAAAivE/2jPpFoqSmNE/s1600/DSC_3228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_O0ld_cS_wg/U3BVDvZ7sgI/AAAAAAAAivE/2jPpFoqSmNE/s1600/DSC_3228.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Zapote, lima, ginger ice cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>See You Soon!</b><br />
<b><br />
</b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TQ323c6XlA/U3BVEHvRdpI/AAAAAAAAivE/wWtjRwRDHbk/s1600/DSC_3229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TQ323c6XlA/U3BVEHvRdpI/AAAAAAAAivE/wWtjRwRDHbk/s1600/DSC_3229.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">La Tasta Cafe Finca, chocolate coins</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Cold-brewed Peruvian coffee to end the meal - nutty and very smooth. This was served with four different (and very sweet) chocolate coins - pineapple and passionfruit, yellow chili, Maras salt, and toasted cereal.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
How to sum up this epic journey through time and space? Certainly, the whole was greater than the sum of its parts - no single dish <i>completely</i> blew us away, but each course told a story, and collectively, a cohesive anthology. I am <i>very</i> happy this was one of our last meals in Peru - thought I'm sure a significant amount of context was lost, the limited taste memories we gathered from our short time in the country made parts of this lunch feel <i>familiar</i> - perhaps as close to nostalgia as a tourist can get.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Virú is a birds-eye view of Peruvian cuisine - a grand survey of the landscape, limited by its scope to a relatively superficial exploration of the environments. I wonder, will the next tasting menu delve deeper, immersing us thoroughly in the richness of each locale? I really hope so - there is <i>so</i> much to learn.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://astridygaston.com/">Astrid & Gastón</a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Av. Pas Soldan 290</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
San Isidro, Lima</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Peru</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Phone: +51 (1) 442-2775</div>
Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-89458090642500902252014-05-10T20:37:00.001-07:002014-05-10T20:38:35.410-07:00ámaz - Lima, Peru<b>Dinner - Saturday, May 3, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PH0E6xE7VXw/U2W2iUiYt8I/AAAAAAAAhqg/C81URQqqWvM/s1600/DSC_2737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PH0E6xE7VXw/U2W2iUiYt8I/AAAAAAAAhqg/C81URQqqWvM/s1600/DSC_2737.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>Pedro Miguel Schiaffino is a pretty big deal in Lima. Trained in the USA and Europe in the 90s, Schiaffino returned to Peru in 2002. Two years later, he opened <a href="http://malabar.com.pe/">Malabar</a>, which has received a fair amount of acclaim in the past few years. Known as a champion of "jungle cuisine", his newest venture is <a href="http://amaz.com.pe/">ámaz</a>, where he has gone all-in with the ingredients from the Amazon. Not since our meal at <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2012/10/attica-ripponlea-australia.html">Attica</a> 2 years ago have I encountered so many new ingredients - I can readily say that Amazonian flora are much more palatable than their Australian counterparts. <i>(NB: as it turns out, this meal was just the beginning of a week full of new discoveries - South America has so much untapped potential)</i>.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SCI0t5TPkzA/U2W2Y4WLBKI/AAAAAAAAhqg/IMf_Sp_Oks0/s1600/DSC_2743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SCI0t5TPkzA/U2W2Y4WLBKI/AAAAAAAAhqg/IMf_Sp_Oks0/s1600/DSC_2743.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fried plantains, pan de queso<br />
Cocona salsa, avocado purée with banana vinegar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>In lieu of bread, we received crispy tostones and balls of pan de queso (similar to Brazilian pao de queijo). To accompany these, <i>cocona</i> (Amazon tomato) salsa and a wonderful "guacamole" tinged with banana vinegar - addictive.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xzNb88jbTp4/U2W2ZlIkVgI/AAAAAAAAhqg/5l5qKZHHEeE/s1600/DSC_2746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xzNb88jbTp4/U2W2ZlIkVgI/AAAAAAAAhqg/5l5qKZHHEeE/s1600/DSC_2746.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Grilled fresh scallops, camu camu butter</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Although camu camu is known to have the highest ascorbic acid content on the planet, the sauce was not tart. Instead, it was pleasantly sweet, and combined with the caramelization, gave the grilled scallops a pseudo-Asian touch.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-rmH7ypY7Y/U2W2_9HEWKI/AAAAAAAAhqg/7DJos7MpAUo/s1600/DSC_2747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-rmH7ypY7Y/U2W2_9HEWKI/AAAAAAAAhqg/7DJos7MpAUo/s1600/DSC_2747.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Green salad"<br />
Green taperiba, green papaya, green mango, leche de tigre</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>In experienced hands, unripened fruits can be used to great effect, as was the case here. This Peruvian take on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_papaya_salad" style="font-style: italic;">som tam</a> was fantastic - texturally complex, bursting with salt and acid. Notably, this was my first time eating unripe <i>taperiba</i> (hog plum), while the ripened fruit is quite common in the Caribbean.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zW3Lrs7nsSI/U2W3Dh2c9qI/AAAAAAAAhqg/80yCda6Zlts/s1600/DSC_2748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zW3Lrs7nsSI/U2W3Dh2c9qI/AAAAAAAAhqg/80yCda6Zlts/s1600/DSC_2748.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Amazonian river clams<br />
Sweet chilies, green onion salsa</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0CqIlx9y5k/U2W3KQI3ZsI/AAAAAAAAhqg/0J89PbW7jI4/s1600/DSC_2749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0CqIlx9y5k/U2W3KQI3ZsI/AAAAAAAAhqg/0J89PbW7jI4/s1600/DSC_2749.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ceviche ámaz style<br />
Cooked ripe plantains, charapita chilies</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nbm-maYpdSM/U2W3lYooUnI/AAAAAAAAhqg/rY-YiYauwb4/s1600/DSC_2752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nbm-maYpdSM/U2W3lYooUnI/AAAAAAAAhqg/rY-YiYauwb4/s1600/DSC_2752.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Wild giant Amazonian snails<br />
Chorizo, spicy chilies</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><i>Wow</i> - giant is almost an understatement. The scarily large shell of each snail was filled with its diced flesh, cooked with chorizo and chilies. I suspect the meat has little taste of its own (hence the aggressive seasoning), but the texture was abalone-like. I very much doubt I will ever encounter any land mollusc as large as these fellows anytime soon.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWtIEsi6apg/U2W3lR54scI/AAAAAAAAhqg/t4MBG2HSn_A/s1600/DSC_2751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWtIEsi6apg/U2W3lR54scI/AAAAAAAAhqg/t4MBG2HSn_A/s1600/DSC_2751.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dorado grilled in bijao leaves</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fnC4xZLgWE4/U2W3qUicFyI/AAAAAAAAhqg/5eIAjrvtepo/s1600/DSC_2754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fnC4xZLgWE4/U2W3qUicFyI/AAAAAAAAhqg/5eIAjrvtepo/s1600/DSC_2754.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cecina, mashed plantains</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">If this is anything to go by, Peruvian <i>cecina</i> is very similar to the Mexican version - grilled, salted sheets of pork. Tender, and very good with the sweet mash underneath.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4IZopOMkB-o/U2W39PZ5SkI/AAAAAAAAhqg/tZYLZ0epf58/s1600/DSC_2755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4IZopOMkB-o/U2W39PZ5SkI/AAAAAAAAhqg/tZYLZ0epf58/s1600/DSC_2755.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Amazonian fruits, basil</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Unfortunately, our poor command of Spanish reared its ugly head during dessert, which comprised a variety of indigenous fruits. A number of citrus species were present, as well as a lychee-like fruit. The only recognizable item appeared to be (and tasted like) passionfruit seeds, although even then I'm not confident they weren't from some sort of related fruit. Surprisingly, all the fruits were very pleasant - the rainforest did not let us down.<br />
<br />
Our first dinner in Lima was an exciting meal from start to finish - the element of the unknown coupled with very proficient cooking. I am curious whether Schiaffino's re-introduction of these traditional ingredients to modern Peruvian cooking will have any significant trickle-down effect - certainly, many are delicious enough to stand on their own. Time will tell.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://amaz.com.pe/">ámaz</a><br />
Av. La Paz 1079<br />
Miraflores, Lima<br />
Peru<br />
Phone: +51 (1) 221-9393Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-7438118536792855822014-04-03T08:15:00.000-07:002014-04-03T08:15:06.184-07:00TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA<b>Dinner - Saturday, March 29, 2014</b><br />
<br />
More than seven months since our last TBL3 meal - it was time.<br />
<br />
I find March and April to be tricky periods for eating out in Southern California - caught between a Winter that never came and (particularly this year) a Spring that is less than green. But the vegetables from Chino Farms rarely disappoint, and Trey Foshee is their whisperer.<br />
<br />
<i>NB: for point of comparison, <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/03/tbl3-at-georges-california-modern-la.html">our meal from exactly one year ago - March 27, 2013</a>.</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I2qApkoJcfE/UzhtdayzeRI/AAAAAAAAhhw/O9Sh5UnZihs/s1600/DSC_2658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I2qApkoJcfE/UzhtdayzeRI/AAAAAAAAhhw/O9Sh5UnZihs/s1600/DSC_2658.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Eucalyptus soda</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GAtDu7yb19E/UzhtXVufhTI/AAAAAAAAhhw/HeumVPkSpIQ/s1600/DSC_2659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img 690="" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GAtDu7yb19E/UzhtXVufhTI/AAAAAAAAhhw/HeumVPkSpIQ/s1600/DSC_2659.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Northern Divine caviar<br />
Cauliflower, banana, white chocolate</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7laI750d3S0Rb4wRSKX1u0S3UcVC7pIG4zELNZEA316lPEEiXpBYxv7IQmoFit-g3Dun-9sErj6lpRlfOMqE1-rbfuxJr0jJEjQOeeIIMr6jqvdztq2ml0JEefEPekuYBkq_HJFJzp5V8/s1600/DSC_2662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7laI750d3S0Rb4wRSKX1u0S3UcVC7pIG4zELNZEA316lPEEiXpBYxv7IQmoFit-g3Dun-9sErj6lpRlfOMqE1-rbfuxJr0jJEjQOeeIIMr6jqvdztq2ml0JEefEPekuYBkq_HJFJzp5V8/s1600/DSC_2662.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Chocolate clam, burnt onion ponzu</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The large clam, from Ensenada, was the first of its kind that I've had - evidently some local regulations have changed, and we may soon be seeing more seafood from south of the border making its way to San Diego. Hurrah!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tEIz60d3fQ8/UzhtjdlPMyI/AAAAAAAAhhw/GwDecZiN1es/s1600/DSC_2663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tEIz60d3fQ8/UzhtjdlPMyI/AAAAAAAAhhw/GwDecZiN1es/s1600/DSC_2663.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Japanese hamachi, kumquat kosho, pickled onion</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KxUHfTgnXts/Uzhtt5Bf4hI/AAAAAAAAhhw/s_Z2JiRkSAA/s1600/DSC_2664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KxUHfTgnXts/Uzhtt5Bf4hI/AAAAAAAAhhw/s_Z2JiRkSAA/s1600/DSC_2664.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Chino Farms carrots<br />
Whey, citron, chamomile, raisin, fresh cheese</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wow. This is what the kitchen does best - extracting clean, punchy flavours from local produce. The citron vinegar was phenomenal, particularly in contrast with the creamy cheese.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qNfevd48dWRP-g04SiaXwAQl6JTD7ud2tvsDFWPfEGD0jLE3l0e_MumcUBhcE4yLSxZg6gS_XMNSYFRkBah0_wFcT8BulSsuZ_3O4-V0RdTHvNlRmRC-y2N0Xc7eTLAGm0LIzKnGWeUm/s1600/DSC_2666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qNfevd48dWRP-g04SiaXwAQl6JTD7ud2tvsDFWPfEGD0jLE3l0e_MumcUBhcE4yLSxZg6gS_XMNSYFRkBah0_wFcT8BulSsuZ_3O4-V0RdTHvNlRmRC-y2N0Xc7eTLAGm0LIzKnGWeUm/s1600/DSC_2666.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fish taco</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This tribute to San Diego seems to be a TBL3 mainstay now - the iteration tonight was technically superior to <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/08/tbl3-at-georges-california-modern-la.html">its predecessor</a>, particularly with regards to the tortilla. The fish, a fantastic achiote-marinated madai, was accompanied by crispy skin and classic fish taco fixings. Excellent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ttl-6v8Fh5o/Uzht72ra6AI/AAAAAAAAhhw/UCVTeRpZx8I/s1600/DSC_2667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ttl-6v8Fh5o/Uzht72ra6AI/AAAAAAAAhhw/UCVTeRpZx8I/s1600/DSC_2667.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Local spot prawns, fennel butter</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rLtLChKgKQE/UzhuAwB_LiI/AAAAAAAAhhw/8DHNKa-TiMU/s1600/DSC_2669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rLtLChKgKQE/UzhuAwB_LiI/AAAAAAAAhhw/8DHNKa-TiMU/s1600/DSC_2669.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Wild salad</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another perennial course, the components of the salad vary with the seasons - on this night we were presented with nasturtium and wood sorrel, accompanied by nasturtium honey and a verdant stinging nettle purée. Nestled in the center of the herbs, the sweet and ever-delicious natal plum sorbet. Finally, giant wild pine nuts with their preternaturally earthy flavour. Hardly any bitter notes in this iteration of the salad - very good.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS90dvpBGN359mZRwvboYDz6Mjy93EZ88RpMtSYiNjszLR01dr6Pk2h_fLwmfrtQE62qyWFCj1BuaFzdC0d9yIjMOsdDZFiv04hXw4N1-kmVrJxf5nW4xodQQX34eBSNd0w9dAfrDRFq9w/s1600/DSC_2670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS90dvpBGN359mZRwvboYDz6Mjy93EZ88RpMtSYiNjszLR01dr6Pk2h_fLwmfrtQE62qyWFCj1BuaFzdC0d9yIjMOsdDZFiv04hXw4N1-kmVrJxf5nW4xodQQX34eBSNd0w9dAfrDRFq9w/s1600/DSC_2670.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Black truffle omelette, uni, hollandaise</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1hv8wmNKTr0/UzhuTnltC1I/AAAAAAAAhhw/TgCHdbkUnro/s1600/DSC_2673.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1hv8wmNKTr0/UzhuTnltC1I/AAAAAAAAhhw/TgCHdbkUnro/s1600/DSC_2673.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Braised cabbages<br />
Smoked bone marrow, crispy rice, bacon-kombu broth</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Featuring four types of cabbage from Chino Farms, this was a stunner. Salty, umami broth played up against the creamy marrow. The vegetables retained a slight hint of their raw texture, which really put the dish over the top.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UEN2aasIfeM/UzhuRByT1PI/AAAAAAAAhhw/RD0lcma7pnU/s1600/DSC_2675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UEN2aasIfeM/UzhuRByT1PI/AAAAAAAAhhw/RD0lcma7pnU/s1600/DSC_2675.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Rabbit loin, tarragon-infused jus<br />
Chino Farms asparagus, peas, rhubarb, morels</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6CX0JADrP9hpmyTCslYBy1182fOrCoPlxsJmnwsjeMp84nVjgmvoatAppIRD5rRd8W8dJoGlCVr9m1MgM_quJaSOGsHKVQrup6b8clUw5puawmPTf76xgHFOm9R2CPuZl0aojlgt_3r_3/s1600/DSC_2679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6CX0JADrP9hpmyTCslYBy1182fOrCoPlxsJmnwsjeMp84nVjgmvoatAppIRD5rRd8W8dJoGlCVr9m1MgM_quJaSOGsHKVQrup6b8clUw5puawmPTf76xgHFOm9R2CPuZl0aojlgt_3r_3/s1600/DSC_2679.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dry-aged ribeye, radishes, onion jus</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gK_D11p_ZRM/UzhuliSqsTI/AAAAAAAAhhw/4gdzcFZYRls/s1600/DSC_2680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gK_D11p_ZRM/UzhuliSqsTI/AAAAAAAAhhw/4gdzcFZYRls/s1600/DSC_2680.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grapefruit sorbet, spiced peanuts, vanilla bean cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VHDwgIrmqHE/Uzhum-NOWwI/AAAAAAAAhhw/kdy-HhlHV7Q/s1600/DSC_2682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VHDwgIrmqHE/Uzhum-NOWwI/AAAAAAAAhhw/kdy-HhlHV7Q/s1600/DSC_2682.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mango float<br />
Ginger beer, mezcal ice cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A mango-infused ginger soda was poured over mango purée and mezcal ice cream. Floats like a butterfly, stings like a bee - that ice cream packed a punch!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WUlWcrytt4/Uzhuod2e2EI/AAAAAAAAhhw/WQg6BL3DHjQ/s1600/DSC_2684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WUlWcrytt4/Uzhuod2e2EI/AAAAAAAAhhw/WQg6BL3DHjQ/s1600/DSC_2684.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Chocolate cremeux<br />
Strawberry, white asparagus, olive oil</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Strawberries and asparagus are a classic pairing, both on the plate and in the garden. Here, creams of both lined a central avenue of chocolate cremeux. Powdered olive oil (which I normally find terribly gimmicky) complemented the asparagus quite well. Proportions were also nicely calibrated - a rather impressive dessert, and a great end to the meal.<br />
<br />
A few years since its inception, TBL3 is still the best meal in San Diego. Although his imprint on the tasting menu is not readily apparent to me yet (or he's doing a very good job channeling Trey), new chef de cuisine <a href="https://twitter.com/Jonbauti">Jonathan Bautista</a> brings talent and pedigree - I'm hoping to see more from him as he settles in. In the meantime, won't <i>someone</i> (anyone?) rise up and try to knock the king off his throne?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.georgesatthecove.com/california-modern"><span style="color: black;"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /></span>Georges California Modern</a><br />
1250 Prospect St.<br />
La Jolla, CA 92037<br />
Phone: (858) 454-4244Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-81178048674788137922014-03-09T21:13:00.000-07:002014-03-09T21:13:32.830-07:00Saison - San Francisco, CA<b>Dinner - Saturday, March 1, 2014</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlCn7sVummw/UxPUuSvbx0I/AAAAAAAAhd0/F1W3nj4upX0/s1600/DSC_2655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlCn7sVummw/UxPUuSvbx0I/AAAAAAAAhd0/F1W3nj4upX0/s1600/DSC_2655.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
Saison's new digs are quite a sight to behold. The space is lush and inviting, with dark wood tables spaced generously like at an old tippling room. Polished copper pans and walls of stainless steel are juxtaposed against furs and stacked cords of wood - at once refined and rustic.<br />
<br />
This was our first visit to Saison in over a year, and also our first time at the new location (we had planned a visit in February 2013, but teething problems closed the restaurant at the last moment - <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/02/coi-san-francisco-ca.html">we went to Coi instead</a>). The complimentary pours of Krug remain, as does the two-tier tasting menu - tonight, we opted for the lengthier "Discovery" menu.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QI3cCZns_68/UxPSAordZhI/AAAAAAAAhd0/wuUhyfr0MgY/s1600/DSC_2611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QI3cCZns_68/UxPSAordZhI/AAAAAAAAhd0/wuUhyfr0MgY/s1600/DSC_2611.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">White sturgeon caviar, belly, bones</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We opened with caviar, heaped over a slice of sturgeon belly that had been cured and smoked over kelp. This was ringed by a gelée of grilled bones (a common theme at Saison) - smoky, sweet, umami, <i>intense</i>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rvARoLhrbTg/UxPR98vFHaI/AAAAAAAAhd0/lK7w-WsjOGk/s1600/DSC_2612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rvARoLhrbTg/UxPR98vFHaI/AAAAAAAAhd0/lK7w-WsjOGk/s1600/DSC_2612.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Coal-kissed kinmedai, ankimo, umeboshi</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A beautiful piece of seasonal pottery served as a vessel for the binchotan-grilled snapper. The broth, made with cherry blossom flowers and leaves, paired perfectly with the plum to complement the richness of the monkfish liver.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_-FOldJGaXk/UxPSBTNqzUI/AAAAAAAAhd0/qqWb5jlq6Fc/s1600/DSC_2613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_-FOldJGaXk/UxPSBTNqzUI/AAAAAAAAhd0/qqWb5jlq6Fc/s1600/DSC_2613.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Amberjack warmed under coals, bone vinegar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-11Cy9GZyVJg/UxPSWxkxVdI/AAAAAAAAhd0/q0qTgkGl36Y/s1600/DSC_2614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-11Cy9GZyVJg/UxPSWxkxVdI/AAAAAAAAhd0/q0qTgkGl36Y/s1600/DSC_2614.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pickled sardines on toast, its roe, preserved wild onion</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_UQsntmnqk/UxPSVh6GBLI/AAAAAAAAhd0/5dHrUE-Kalg/s1600/DSC_2615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_UQsntmnqk/UxPSVh6GBLI/AAAAAAAAhd0/5dHrUE-Kalg/s1600/DSC_2615.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Crispy bones of the sardine, river vegetable</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The fried bones of the sardine from the previous course - I always enjoy these. We were a little surprised to see more than one of these plates sent back to the kitchen uneaten or barely touched - a waste of fish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBW8cbflx8o7So0O5ZFa6dyvNGU_NfVBwcFXJdl8OODnPFZOWhUltc_v17XzBwrFbWaqTOIam7eMrl0uXaDgvYzhxhvvrL2R-bOTb-F2VizTrY4nqgs-g-v875PyBwhkhPKtpZvboatqwb/s1600/DSC_2616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBW8cbflx8o7So0O5ZFa6dyvNGU_NfVBwcFXJdl8OODnPFZOWhUltc_v17XzBwrFbWaqTOIam7eMrl0uXaDgvYzhxhvvrL2R-bOTb-F2VizTrY4nqgs-g-v875PyBwhkhPKtpZvboatqwb/s1600/DSC_2616.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Monterey Bay abalone roasted over embers, seaweed, sauce of the liver and capers</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Absolutely sensational. The abalone's texture was out of this world - the perfect hint of chew, accented by charred edges from its time in the fire. The sauce made from its insides had an alluring minerality. This dish exemplifies everything that makes Saison such an amazing restaurant.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5uJ53PtOQDY/UxPSsJZ9kMI/AAAAAAAAhd0/LMvCxikHPZg/s1600/DSC_2617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5uJ53PtOQDY/UxPSsJZ9kMI/AAAAAAAAhd0/LMvCxikHPZg/s1600/DSC_2617.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Hotaru ika, gently grilled, with its own livers</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Firefly squid from Japan, near the peak of their season, served with Saison's version of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiokara"><i>shiokara</i></a>. The fire, again, is transformative - it produces such beautiful contrasts between exteriors and interiors, and the faint aroma of smoke is a wispy thread that connects every course.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ur8ikPLdkY4/UxPSpiIXbFI/AAAAAAAAhd0/KE8ulzT_41I/s1600/DSC_2621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ur8ikPLdkY4/UxPSpiIXbFI/AAAAAAAAhd0/KE8ulzT_41I/s1600/DSC_2621.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Golden trout roe, mountain vegetables, broth of grilled bones</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The roe was a monolayer that hid a base of cooked vegetables mixed with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dioscorea_opposita" style="font-style: italic;">tororo</a>. While we enjoy its characteristic gummy texture, I can see it being challenging (particularly for non-Asians) - the table next to us did <i>not</i> like this course.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sUYj9QDkyUM/UxPSt3M_lXI/AAAAAAAAhd0/Rz9_0hDShIk/s1600/DSC_2625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sUYj9QDkyUM/UxPSt3M_lXI/AAAAAAAAhd0/Rz9_0hDShIk/s1600/DSC_2625.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fort Bragg uni and green asparagus, poached in seawater then grilled</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIZpQxISAwA/UxPTBorR9bI/AAAAAAAAhd0/3ilx-PqZAnE/s1600/DSC_2628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIZpQxISAwA/UxPTBorR9bI/AAAAAAAAhd0/3ilx-PqZAnE/s1600/DSC_2628.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Red rock crab<br />
Gelée made from the shells, seaweed vinegar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Halfway through, and I am already beginning to exhaust the superlatives. This crab was fantastic, with sweetness and flavour easily superior to Dungeness. My understanding is that their smaller size (and probably other factors) makes them significantly more labor-intensive to deal with. Here, it was complemented by the vegetal coastal greens (particularly noticeable was the heady aroma of wild jasmine).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I0zcVso036M/UxPTAtY9-rI/AAAAAAAAhd0/5AgqpXHZqm0/s1600/DSC_2629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I0zcVso036M/UxPTAtY9-rI/AAAAAAAAhd0/5AgqpXHZqm0/s1600/DSC_2629.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Artichoke, stuffed with scallop and grilled<br />
Artichoke barigoule, Swarnadipa spices</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DkUoczICU7I/UxPTCfVPEgI/AAAAAAAAhd0/bRVU5vNCPqM/s1600/DSC_2630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DkUoczICU7I/UxPTCfVPEgI/AAAAAAAAhd0/bRVU5vNCPqM/s1600/DSC_2630.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Celeriac, poached in smoked water<br />
Wild mushrooms, herbs from the garden, pork broth</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The smoked water was infused with the essense of barbeque - slightly disconcerting, but so delicious, conferring a pronounced meatiness to the root vegetable. Together with the earthy mushrooms, this was a dish that practically ate like an amazing piece of brisket.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgLppTKNyjj4yfa3kq_kPpZi92r4s7nhDybxfTD4rUG4i_8quNEuxGk6zF4PPKreEk_mkB4_pjIyuMjAC4m-fybg_4m_M7nI7UqmFC1wn-9M3xRPw9X9_BxiJ70vA0YR6vvCKASAON7dU/s1600/DSC_2633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgLppTKNyjj4yfa3kq_kPpZi92r4s7nhDybxfTD4rUG4i_8quNEuxGk6zF4PPKreEk_mkB4_pjIyuMjAC4m-fybg_4m_M7nI7UqmFC1wn-9M3xRPw9X9_BxiJ70vA0YR6vvCKASAON7dU/s1600/DSC_2633.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cardoon royale, black truffle, truffle custard</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mKTZlyClFgc/UxPTZdsnr0I/AAAAAAAAhd0/ByicWtSFvYw/s1600/DSC_2632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mKTZlyClFgc/UxPTZdsnr0I/AAAAAAAAhd0/ByicWtSFvYw/s1600/DSC_2632.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Parker House rolls, cultured butter</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LxroEms0rjY/UxPTciurquI/AAAAAAAAhd0/VTHlxwPDUxo/s1600/DSC_2634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LxroEms0rjY/UxPTciurquI/AAAAAAAAhd0/VTHlxwPDUxo/s1600/DSC_2634.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Toffee, duck liver<br />
White chocolate, milk, bread, beer</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aIdjjA3QB2w/UxPTnyz7WlI/AAAAAAAAhd0/92isb4MfMUc/s1600/DSC_2636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aIdjjA3QB2w/UxPTnyz7WlI/AAAAAAAAhd0/92isb4MfMUc/s1600/DSC_2636.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Truffle cookie, giblets from the bird, grilled pecan honey</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A thin wafer served as a platform for tender giblets (from the duck whose liver was used in the preceding course), brushed with warm pecan honey and topped with slices of black truffle. Frankly, this was <i>mind-blowing</i>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd6kDULQAKEpYwhXY8OjFb9x8Lbo-nOvJ6t36u6zkLUiohSe8388pLkACal0KC3tNXOSQEpkAwxFa1d_3BK9RfzcL-yre0MKPtEABlHGktb47J4BUMWh4PsK9gcDaQ-dXLhGYx-CwYFw0U/s1600/DSC_2637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd6kDULQAKEpYwhXY8OjFb9x8Lbo-nOvJ6t36u6zkLUiohSe8388pLkACal0KC3tNXOSQEpkAwxFa1d_3BK9RfzcL-yre0MKPtEABlHGktb47J4BUMWh4PsK9gcDaQ-dXLhGYx-CwYFw0U/s1600/DSC_2637.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">First of the season peas, their shoots, leaves and flowers</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Peas from Saison's new garden (which, incidentally, is tended by an alumnus of <a href="http://www.growbetterveggies.com/">Love Apple Farms</a>). The broth was a kelp bouillon with bay laurel, in which the pea shells had been steeped - we watched Josh crushing the pods all night, evidently preparing each round of broth à la minute. I'm not sure if I can properly describe this dish - it was a concentrated expression of peas in all their glory.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ne_Vzf2rhr8/UxPTuY6zGII/AAAAAAAAhd0/TIz8R6pNPpM/s1600/DSC_2640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ne_Vzf2rhr8/UxPTuY6zGII/AAAAAAAAhd0/TIz8R6pNPpM/s1600/DSC_2640.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Wood pigeon tourte<br />
Sunchoke, sunflower seed butter, pruneaux</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wood pigeon, aged in-house for a month, encased in flaky pastry and dressed with its jus. Just look at that pink flesh - <i>perfect</i>. On the side, a roasted sunchoke sitting in a thick sauce of coffee and sunflower seed butter. Adding to the richness, an armagnac-soaked prune with a truffle hat. A very nice classical preparation.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdN7h3Z_iMw0lEJIlMy-BQup5cw-3JsESaCpZWddjOzSDrSyJJce4lK8gPu2Dr3SyUcVYLoCRWJ5blgIGeXwsTrsglmBvEHLl0uKrISip96dJN6qK4yv93LCJroEr6SaOG1Mwu3YfqVfH6/s1600/DSC_2643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdN7h3Z_iMw0lEJIlMy-BQup5cw-3JsESaCpZWddjOzSDrSyJJce4lK8gPu2Dr3SyUcVYLoCRWJ5blgIGeXwsTrsglmBvEHLl0uKrISip96dJN6qK4yv93LCJroEr6SaOG1Mwu3YfqVfH6/s1600/DSC_2643.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Beef, grilled in a bed of hay<br />
Pumpkin hung over the fire for a few days</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This beef was <i>beefy</i> - I assume it must have been aged for quite some time. It was paired with "cultured" pumpkin, just one of many vegetables the kitchen dries over the hearth. Two assertive components, matched by a liberal dose of harissa and some fermented pumpkin seed. An impressive dish that balanced a number of contrasting flavours.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sxj9lTD7Or4/UxPUG9w0kyI/AAAAAAAAhd0/jpSXV490KSQ/s1600/DSC_2644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sxj9lTD7Or4/UxPUG9w0kyI/AAAAAAAAhd0/jpSXV490KSQ/s1600/DSC_2644.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Winter citrus granita, buttermilk, bird's nest</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A very nice palate cleanser, blending the iciness of the tart granita with the creamy buttermilk beneath. The delicate texture of the bird's nest was rather overwhelmed by the other components, which is a pity for such a luxurious ingredient.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTsmDw8roRFU0VMn81JqQa522M5zPoTcPgBwNjiTsXKgaIoWCfWfODhwSLGyqHD2iBS4en4GOcoScDSDiyQ2I_dORGvEImy4gaYuYIg4VqIv2OPFnwDxFbsRQTwU2d3D0avuawakdgMfKv/s1600/DSC_2647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTsmDw8roRFU0VMn81JqQa522M5zPoTcPgBwNjiTsXKgaIoWCfWfODhwSLGyqHD2iBS4en4GOcoScDSDiyQ2I_dORGvEImy4gaYuYIg4VqIv2OPFnwDxFbsRQTwU2d3D0avuawakdgMfKv/s1600/DSC_2647.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Black walnut soufflé and ice cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A textbook soufflé baked right in front of our eyes (literally - we were sitting directly opposite the ovens). Faultless texture. More impressive was the ice cream, which looked so plain but hit us with <i>intense</i> black walnut flavour.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7lluG5NdiKQ/UxPUPOzNUZI/AAAAAAAAhd0/01rNOTsTQqY/s1600/DSC_2649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7lluG5NdiKQ/UxPUPOzNUZI/AAAAAAAAhd0/01rNOTsTQqY/s1600/DSC_2649.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Grilled sourdough ice cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fT2h6G-rWus/UxPUSqSrSZI/AAAAAAAAhd0/UGbH-mEohY4/s1600/DSC_2650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fT2h6G-rWus/UxPUSqSrSZI/AAAAAAAAhd0/UGbH-mEohY4/s1600/DSC_2650.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Black sesame cake, chocolate ganache</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5qItMHirQJREhY8nNW-fQZncMP_VK-klsj19SwDASS03EgXpzFHLpp1BN6kWMmtuENVwj12BmuekqjC0RUKGJgE9Dk8FKPkMLRprASkUguC6qSpMqvis8u_0KySAzt87Wi3a0b7Ywjp_/s1600/DSC_2651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5qItMHirQJREhY8nNW-fQZncMP_VK-klsj19SwDASS03EgXpzFHLpp1BN6kWMmtuENVwj12BmuekqjC0RUKGJgE9Dk8FKPkMLRprASkUguC6qSpMqvis8u_0KySAzt87Wi3a0b7Ywjp_/s1600/DSC_2651.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Toasted buckwheat tea</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The pristine flavours of this nutty, roasty tea were exactly what we needed to cap off this long meal.<i> </i>Note the faint robin's egg blue of the teacup - beautiful.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs83ohvNToud1bZp2m3023iMcMS9l2hgFdE8fVw4KbDQ_upiJCrztyCcWbTpERwXWByJFmVqZ-EEoH95IGBNPCgKZIDwCdj5QQFpc71sue8xoEv-rT32t_4O9_IJZigay14DNsLIKKxUN4/s1600/DSC_2652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs83ohvNToud1bZp2m3023iMcMS9l2hgFdE8fVw4KbDQ_upiJCrztyCcWbTpERwXWByJFmVqZ-EEoH95IGBNPCgKZIDwCdj5QQFpc71sue8xoEv-rT32t_4O9_IJZigay14DNsLIKKxUN4/s1600/DSC_2652.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Coffee-milk truffles, Meyer lemon and poppyseed tarts, chocolate and spearmint tarts</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GN3yqg2fvjs/UxPUqgTipSI/AAAAAAAAhd0/HJeqdpjMaBY/s1600/DSC_2653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GN3yqg2fvjs/UxPUqgTipSI/AAAAAAAAhd0/HJeqdpjMaBY/s1600/DSC_2653.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Canelés, cinnamon bark</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I believe Shawn Gayle has tweaked his recipe in the past year - these had a nicer crust, while still maintaining a preternaturally creamy interior. Again, the cinnamon bark box conveyed a soothing aroma - combined, they may have displaced the canelés from Boulette's Larder in my heart of hearts.<br />
<br />
This dinner blew us away - not one dish disappointed. The pea course could be the new <i>brassicas</i> (incidentally, I am looking forward to the kitchen bringing back <i>brassicas</i> in a new form - stay tuned). Within this reconditioned brick building, they are doing something that is so different from everyone else, I find it difficult to make comparisons. Josh Skenes and his team are really driving the culinary conversation forward, and Saison is easily one of, if not the best restaurant in the country. As places like Manresa changed the tenor of Northern California dining, so too will Saison. I am beyond excited for not only their continued evolution, but the eventual stream of alumni that will begin trickling out of the kitchen here.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.saisonsf.com/">Saison</a><br />
178 Townsend Street<br />
San Francisco, CA 94107<br />
Phone: (415) 828-7990Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-54630422829863271262014-03-03T18:49:00.000-08:002014-03-03T18:49:22.880-08:00Aubergine - Carmel, CA<b>Dinner - Thursday, February 27, 2014</b><br />
<br />
Four meals in 13 months - <i>that's saying something</i>. And the crew at Aubergine keeps picking up awards - indeed, during <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/11/aubergine-carmel-ca.html">our most recent visit in November</a>, Justin Cogley was in Germany receiving a Grand Chef award from Relais & Châteaux. I also said at that time that I did not foresee a return in the first half of 2014 - I'm very glad I was wrong.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tiEbu88YFYLPkQBISeBCtVHZDZ2VMlcNQot2uqiPF8TXZa7WfNM0xidlVza6aK9rPLuj8xOLximMAqS0YdrGR4XRJ7VTvcagqO0W6oq9gihedSj2EBpAGvXsM_qa69z3l4e00lR74VOU/s1600/DSC_2556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tiEbu88YFYLPkQBISeBCtVHZDZ2VMlcNQot2uqiPF8TXZa7WfNM0xidlVza6aK9rPLuj8xOLximMAqS0YdrGR4XRJ7VTvcagqO0W6oq9gihedSj2EBpAGvXsM_qa69z3l4e00lR74VOU/s1600/DSC_2556.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lemon-berry Meritage, hibiscus rim</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k3FO1nj1oOQ/UxEnj2qEd4I/AAAAAAAAhZM/dey0qtV2idA/s1600/DSC_2557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k3FO1nj1oOQ/UxEnj2qEd4I/AAAAAAAAhZM/dey0qtV2idA/s1600/DSC_2557.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Kumamoto, seawater gelée, caviar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Like discovering hidden treasure in a pile of driftwood - each shell held a <i>sweet</i> Kumamoto topped with a heap of caviar and saline gelée. If only oysters came like this in the wild.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1jiHHWpa0vk/UxEnluWFAgI/AAAAAAAAhZM/XFHCcZmRucg/s1600/DSC_2559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1jiHHWpa0vk/UxEnluWFAgI/AAAAAAAAhZM/XFHCcZmRucg/s1600/DSC_2559.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Siberian caviar, Kampachi belly with passion fruit and seaweed</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
These "gifts from the Pacific" are a textural departure from the snacks served at previous meals. Whereas prior iterations had a strong emphasis on crunch, the theme here was suppleness, highlighting the fresh offerings from the sea. I particularly liked the rather toothsome kampachi belly, accented by acid and salt.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_60IlPrcdiX2MrlBVch9UbdCRYtv2wsUePpvEQEbZT89GLMGcTW9sCZ7hOvgfILV9_0Q4xUdd_xwj8RFwkUGDm94lPGDC2TF-gjqg-voLiiB1S9h5B8AA07ZoEyrvJav9ZO195F0swMQu/s1600/DSC_2560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_60IlPrcdiX2MrlBVch9UbdCRYtv2wsUePpvEQEbZT89GLMGcTW9sCZ7hOvgfILV9_0Q4xUdd_xwj8RFwkUGDm94lPGDC2TF-gjqg-voLiiB1S9h5B8AA07ZoEyrvJav9ZO195F0swMQu/s1600/DSC_2560.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Miyazaki wagyu tartare, Santa Barbara uni</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I expected loosely-packed beef, spaced like the rice in good sushi, but this was <i>dense</i> - a little unsettling, albeit tasty.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwLmuS4bQKP_WuCqKB63pzkT-sCFJNZvgY0ttz9Vie6Ip1CQBZymyEzkXi51HSYto9DKFes3B02GG_BYtNk0_owMXrdzIJS6zeFpLmRYIH8fpzfUJ-E5yF2Ykuycj8mBScCF9Y8vY7TlJS/s1600/DSC_2558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwLmuS4bQKP_WuCqKB63pzkT-sCFJNZvgY0ttz9Vie6Ip1CQBZymyEzkXi51HSYto9DKFes3B02GG_BYtNk0_owMXrdzIJS6zeFpLmRYIH8fpzfUJ-E5yF2Ykuycj8mBScCF9Y8vY7TlJS/s1600/DSC_2558.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Raw milk panna cotta, sea grapes</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwnMUeS7hDQ0DaL-r-jKgGh11yN6LXirn_Vpua3jmejsNmLqS1xiVt4rt2fQnj87BnuWEbfjXaj9SHNCyf4NurujMcN-nDpoijdhGvTUGOQyIa8GBq0ajO2pjTVNx49M8w_PQXjMkHnmE/s1600/DSC_2561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwnMUeS7hDQ0DaL-r-jKgGh11yN6LXirn_Vpua3jmejsNmLqS1xiVt4rt2fQnj87BnuWEbfjXaj9SHNCyf4NurujMcN-nDpoijdhGvTUGOQyIa8GBq0ajO2pjTVNx49M8w_PQXjMkHnmE/s1600/DSC_2561.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dungeness crab, Bibb lettuce, crab gelée</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2cIWePDfhz6Kb7kGGwCN5ubisysfdsxAzj7jxYw4LrwMz-SJb8E0z7DiHTnuXmLEenaQ_0IqCyYSFe1Qe5lEH1iN6l-t7wkiuPUoZmRMMfrLZIIZDoxlLHnrmocTbo3KuWn4PWEmTlSII/s1600/DSC_2564.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2cIWePDfhz6Kb7kGGwCN5ubisysfdsxAzj7jxYw4LrwMz-SJb8E0z7DiHTnuXmLEenaQ_0IqCyYSFe1Qe5lEH1iN6l-t7wkiuPUoZmRMMfrLZIIZDoxlLHnrmocTbo3KuWn4PWEmTlSII/s1600/DSC_2564.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Duck liver, mache, sherry, local vegetables</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Such a <i>pretty</i> dish, with the duck liver hidden beneath a garden of greens. I tasted peas, parsnips, carrots and radishes - Winter passing into Spring. An amazing way to lighten the creamy, unctuous liver.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BEsahDJBBcA/UxEnnfLokPI/AAAAAAAAhZM/F3th167kbfM/s1600/DSC_2565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BEsahDJBBcA/UxEnnfLokPI/AAAAAAAAhZM/F3th167kbfM/s1600/DSC_2565.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Steelhead trout, its roe<br />
Fennel frond, hearts of palm, olive</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8OhvUtFYM7-2t8UUU1KJhqW0USi20Qmhf3FK8oW4n1oW0fk8-i9vZ75SZCwI9uZxTQvjVhlXKQ0O_pin-sylCDmDTcMWy2Iw3AC3l6S0xt8xUVVQH_AqA-fCX7AAJ4WFA7UzQEaeoc7k/s1600/DSC_2569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8OhvUtFYM7-2t8UUU1KJhqW0USi20Qmhf3FK8oW4n1oW0fk8-i9vZ75SZCwI9uZxTQvjVhlXKQ0O_pin-sylCDmDTcMWy2Iw3AC3l6S0xt8xUVVQH_AqA-fCX7AAJ4WFA7UzQEaeoc7k/s1600/DSC_2569.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Monterey Bay abalone, artichokes, seaweed</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tender abalone farmed in local waters, matched with two types of seaweed and a hot, sweet, nutty artichoke broth - my favourite course. Visually stunning, with flavour to match.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ymnYC6lDB2A/UxEnpUcjPWI/AAAAAAAAhZM/lyHpfMzt0VI/s1600/DSC_2570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ymnYC6lDB2A/UxEnpUcjPWI/AAAAAAAAhZM/lyHpfMzt0VI/s1600/DSC_2570.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dover sole, truffle, fava leaf</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This was a narrow second to the abalone dish. The sole was beautifully prepared, highlighting its firm flesh, but the truffle-infused sauce was <i>spectacular</i> - an unabashedly over-the-top (one could even say gratuitous) burst of salt and truffle. A glorious sendoff to the end of truffle season.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xcd3W-juVfU/UxEno-Vf7yI/AAAAAAAAhZM/8Ax_rrJ6RO4/s1600/DSC_2572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xcd3W-juVfU/UxEno-Vf7yI/AAAAAAAAhZM/8Ax_rrJ6RO4/s1600/DSC_2572.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Rabbit, its kidney, mustard, spinach</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qwdHluZdGUQ/UxEnp9q6tkI/AAAAAAAAhZM/R62znIibcS8/s1600/DSC_2575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qwdHluZdGUQ/UxEnp9q6tkI/AAAAAAAAhZM/R62znIibcS8/s1600/DSC_2575.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Colorado lamb<br />
Rhubarb, salsify, nettle</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LU_5e06Viso/UxEnrobSvQI/AAAAAAAAhZM/Yrt5QprYAE0/s1600/DSC_2577.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LU_5e06Viso/UxEnrobSvQI/AAAAAAAAhZM/Yrt5QprYAE0/s1600/DSC_2577.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Miyazaki wagyu, 7 herbs</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Twice-seared A5 wagyu, dusted with matcha, topped with a lump of wasabi, and accompanied by the kitchen's Northern California version of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanakusa-no-sekku">nanakusa</a> - inspiration from <a href="http://twitter.com/justincogley">Justin Cogley</a> and <a href="http://twitter.com/coolerchef">Aaron Koseba</a>'s recent trip to Japan (and <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/05/takazawa-tokyo-japan.html">Takazawa</a> in particular, I was told). Vegetal, earthy, sharp - another dish that marks the transition into Spring.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nK56BTYeTA/UxEnr9PFIWI/AAAAAAAAhZM/EGIuab3Mqoc/s1600/DSC_2580.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nK56BTYeTA/UxEnr9PFIWI/AAAAAAAAhZM/EGIuab3Mqoc/s1600/DSC_2580.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Salers cheese<br />
Black trumpet mushrooms, chicken jus, gingerbread crumble</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
An umami explosion - I literally had to reduce the size of each bite, to keep from overwhelming myself. Addictive, but arguably too much give the point in the meal.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLQE6w4DM5g/UxEnrWfhM1I/AAAAAAAAhZM/rqcstlHdAf4/s1600/DSC_2582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLQE6w4DM5g/UxEnrWfhM1I/AAAAAAAAhZM/rqcstlHdAf4/s1600/DSC_2582.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Sorrel sorbet, celery root, crispy milk</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Cleansing and extremely welcome after the cheese course. Cold, crispy, slightly sour from the oxalic acid, yet grounded by the celery root purée. Very good.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tl0Rlmuc74s/UxEnsRg0n3I/AAAAAAAAhZM/2DuVacmuiIw/s1600/DSC_2584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tl0Rlmuc74s/UxEnsRg0n3I/AAAAAAAAhZM/2DuVacmuiIw/s1600/DSC_2584.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Baba au rhum<br />
Tonka bean whipped cream, lemon sponge, candied kumquat, ginger beer purée</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Baba au rhum like I've never had it before. The yeast cake was soaked in a syrup that had less rum than I'd prefer, but the the accoutrements made up for it. The deep, rich notes of tonka bean contrasted with the acidity of lemon and kumquat. Ginger beer and rum combined to evoke shades of a Dark and Stormy - cocktail and dessert as one. Brilliant.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCCJYnJpTVkFd0YydINA5ws0Tk82fj_fdLKIobMVZCdowf1pzmSkFpAV-4uoN1n6NKV0jEd8_uM3Fs1gPH67HDImb8S491abuB0XPbvsZr6EblsdBTuxyQmxkHU1KnRmQIiQ0oRifLcwv/s1600/DSC_2585.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCCJYnJpTVkFd0YydINA5ws0Tk82fj_fdLKIobMVZCdowf1pzmSkFpAV-4uoN1n6NKV0jEd8_uM3Fs1gPH67HDImb8S491abuB0XPbvsZr6EblsdBTuxyQmxkHU1KnRmQIiQ0oRifLcwv/s1600/DSC_2585.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Milk chocolate mousse, jasmine ice cream</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;">Peanut, cocoa paper, banana pudding</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPwYLLHxtHLBXgKpOth9v9m6uUEZqoUm6bOeuE74FujKHf9u87cDXhRvb5i7eTc10uqoXBN6v2FatVoJzzivC3pUURWnej_q8GniFZMOML0gG2aD30CrtMwwk6c3pdQWVmJIPWPNre1T4/s1600/DSC_2586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPwYLLHxtHLBXgKpOth9v9m6uUEZqoUm6bOeuE74FujKHf9u87cDXhRvb5i7eTc10uqoXBN6v2FatVoJzzivC3pUURWnej_q8GniFZMOML0gG2aD30CrtMwwk6c3pdQWVmJIPWPNre1T4/s1600/DSC_2586.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Juniper macarons, passion fruit rock</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YKmHpM_iPi0/UxEntq7QhoI/AAAAAAAAhZM/TjCtSWT4GBQ/s1600/DSC_2587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YKmHpM_iPi0/UxEntq7QhoI/AAAAAAAAhZM/TjCtSWT4GBQ/s1600/DSC_2587.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Caramel truffles</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By design, our shortest menu to date, and possibly the strongest. A reading of the menu suggests a linear progression from light to heavy, reaching a crescendo with the lamb and beef, but they surprised with their lightness (in contrast, the abalone and Dover sole were heavy-hitters) - dinner here crests and troughs like the ocean outside.<br />
<br />
It's remarkable how they accomplish so much with so little on the plate - the mark of a master. As it turns out, Cogley's talent is not his ability to harness the coast (after all, he's proven equally successful in the center of the continent) - it is his skill at flavour arithmetic, the knack for knowing when to back off, and when an ingredient needs coaxing. I look forward to our next visit, whenever it may be.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.auberginecarmel.com/">Aubergine</a><br />
Monte Verde at Seventh<br />
Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93921<br />
Phone: (831) 624-8578Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-48203957366510750182014-02-25T15:16:00.000-08:002014-02-25T15:16:46.659-08:00alma - Los Angeles, CA<b>Dinner - Saturday, February 22, 2013</b><br />
<div>
<b><br />
</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_R-XYxI-1SnhCog1sHPuWSh4cPVRfwyYde2dgDT7IoIQVrO7gY75ArhQzS1kZXA5vvqA4k5bcH0z7Izn6lncOIOszP_knfC9ODN_ZWJ9kVrl3cIfbIiQvobzd5sEl8wOcb4IpUFb1Txmw/s1600/DSC_2554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_R-XYxI-1SnhCog1sHPuWSh4cPVRfwyYde2dgDT7IoIQVrO7gY75ArhQzS1kZXA5vvqA4k5bcH0z7Izn6lncOIOszP_knfC9ODN_ZWJ9kVrl3cIfbIiQvobzd5sEl8wOcb4IpUFb1Txmw/s1600/DSC_2554.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
Since <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/06/alma-los-angeles-ca.html">our first meal at alma</a> last year, Ari Taymor and team have been building a steady stream of recognition. Bon Appetit, GQ and the James Beard Foundation have all come knocking on their door. The restaurant has changed as well, streamlining itself in the kitchen. Gone is the a la carte menu, replaced by two prix fixe options - one simply an abbreviated version of the other.<br />
<br />
I had briefly corresponded with Ari after our dinner in June, but was quite surprised to receive an invitation from him earlier this month to revisit the restaurant, as he felt that the restaurant had "grown by leaps and bounds". With no plans in place for my birthday, we decided that celebrating at alma would be perfect.<br />
<br />
<i>NB: at the end of the night, we were refused a bill due to a kitchen oversight (see the end for further details). Ari, unfortunately, was away in NYC doing a collaboration dinner at <a href="http://contranyc.com/">Contra</a>.</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YF50M6HEvq4/UwpohDKdx7I/AAAAAAAAhUg/-337XYrv3sI/s1600/DSC_2532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YF50M6HEvq4/UwpohDKdx7I/AAAAAAAAhUg/-337XYrv3sI/s1600/DSC_2532.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Smoked ocean trout, turnip, roe</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Good quality fish with just a kiss of smoke - a nice start. I am a sucker for fried shallots, and enjoyed these greatly for their crunch and flavour. The turnip and roe rounded things out with a burst of freshness.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3jHt6uJEhf0/UwpofdnrW0I/AAAAAAAAhUg/YOzKFVgza0k/s1600/DSC_2533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3jHt6uJEhf0/UwpofdnrW0I/AAAAAAAAhUg/YOzKFVgza0k/s1600/DSC_2533.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">English muffin<br />
Burrata, uni, caviar, dill</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2luoPFQFEOI/UwpoggclShI/AAAAAAAAhUg/SChKuhSI8U4/s1600/DSC_2534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2luoPFQFEOI/UwpoggclShI/AAAAAAAAhUg/SChKuhSI8U4/s1600/DSC_2534.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Seaweed-tofu beignets, yuzu kosho, lime</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A perpetual offering on the menu, I suspect the beignets are consistently excellent. This time, they seemed more spongy than creamy on the inside (reminding me of a light fishcake), which I rather enjoyed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHxLm2w2E8LVCNBbGMMOEEPFW4RqsvWcWwWQ4BZYEGgu2Jk5OH9YU22ACaUQ7rlSWiKmAgqPStsrGCW63rslO-EphqMUyEAZnE-mr_B8XVDkwtFUe85Alu5adIRTmp189NsE-XcLaWYXt/s1600/DSC_2535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHxLm2w2E8LVCNBbGMMOEEPFW4RqsvWcWwWQ4BZYEGgu2Jk5OH9YU22ACaUQ7rlSWiKmAgqPStsrGCW63rslO-EphqMUyEAZnE-mr_B8XVDkwtFUe85Alu5adIRTmp189NsE-XcLaWYXt/s1600/DSC_2535.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"The Central Coast"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Very, very good. The base was a smoky, salty sturgeon brandade, decorated with <i>sweet</i> Dungeness crab meat, tetragon spinach and coastal herbs. Croutons of roughly torn bread added crunch and body. The name of the dish was actually perfectly evocative, given how conditioned I've become to the term "coastal cuisine".<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KukBlRL2nQ0/Uwpov_Ht2II/AAAAAAAAhUg/rj1WDdfmU7I/s1600/DSC_2537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KukBlRL2nQ0/Uwpov_Ht2II/AAAAAAAAhUg/rj1WDdfmU7I/s1600/DSC_2537.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Broken beets and apple, hazelnut, malt</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dg5DSp31d7E/UwposI6ZgYI/AAAAAAAAhUg/jQKArJOKrB8/s1600/DSC_2539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dg5DSp31d7E/UwposI6ZgYI/AAAAAAAAhUg/jQKArJOKrB8/s1600/DSC_2539.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Amberjack<br />
Crushed avocado, celery, hearts of palm</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6LSbzo2JKlR3sdcQUUTsz8sfdmV6B-E_z01a-3f4osE6ksZg4EmbERZD9EsUoKb37SXJ1DpSSGizrsQ-O2IZjVmjDunqmDYhY7ava1nMAKA-dwZPsXUp4LdWXTr96XCfebhdNDZdDuah/s1600/DSC_2541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6LSbzo2JKlR3sdcQUUTsz8sfdmV6B-E_z01a-3f4osE6ksZg4EmbERZD9EsUoKb37SXJ1DpSSGizrsQ-O2IZjVmjDunqmDYhY7ava1nMAKA-dwZPsXUp4LdWXTr96XCfebhdNDZdDuah/s1600/DSC_2541.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Frozen duck liver<br />
Smoked maple, soubise, carrots, coffee granola</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our dish of the night. A nuanced dish that evolved as it warmed up, showcasing a constantly shifting balance of sweet, smoky, salty, bitter, crispy and unctuous elements. I really, really liked this one.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-orOyOBne38E/Uwpo_Zg7HII/AAAAAAAAhUg/2BawDTByxd0/s1600/DSC_2542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-orOyOBne38E/Uwpo_Zg7HII/AAAAAAAAhUg/2BawDTByxd0/s1600/DSC_2542.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Beer and rye bread, cultured butter</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GUL7OGbvbkE/UwppGXshfII/AAAAAAAAhUg/7-JpRuEVoaY/s1600/DSC_2544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GUL7OGbvbkE/UwppGXshfII/AAAAAAAAhUg/7-JpRuEVoaY/s1600/DSC_2544.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Wild sturgeon<br />
Artichoke, bordelaise, coastal succulents</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Excellently prepared fish, paired with a meaty bordelaise sauce and nutty artichokes. I always enjoy the pop of succulents, and here they brought another dimension to the heavier ingredients.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIH1ZdHBHJ_Cuj5YHLpTVv7TwXpxvzdlS6fzNFEXn7QloLoANuWQqhNqJUnS7_Gw4I25Wg-0iE98whcUmo1zrfEhJ2Iz3dn9nEcTWDMdHR8dyIVXqar-RxS3fO3yhgNYXtyQFwShV0dxz/s1600/DSC_2545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIH1ZdHBHJ_Cuj5YHLpTVv7TwXpxvzdlS6fzNFEXn7QloLoANuWQqhNqJUnS7_Gw4I25Wg-0iE98whcUmo1zrfEhJ2Iz3dn9nEcTWDMdHR8dyIVXqar-RxS3fO3yhgNYXtyQFwShV0dxz/s1600/DSC_2545.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Slow-roasted Mishima ranch wagyu<br />
Black truffle, young turnips, walnut</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-postEve9Sy8/UwppWOA4a9I/AAAAAAAAhUg/37RAaQW9viA/s1600/DSC_2547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-postEve9Sy8/UwppWOA4a9I/AAAAAAAAhUg/37RAaQW9viA/s1600/DSC_2547.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lemon geranium sorbet, Meyer lemon foam</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I believe the restaurant offers a rotating menu of housemade sodas - on this night, we enjoyed a delicious white tea ginger soda (<i>very</i> bracing) and a Hawaiian punch. The intermezzo above was in the same vein, albeit frozen - tart and herbacious, tickling the palate, exquisitely refreshing. Lovely.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-es_2DBJMS9I/UwppVdUgyVI/AAAAAAAAhUg/VclgcJ6MDBs/s1600/DSC_2550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-es_2DBJMS9I/UwppVdUgyVI/AAAAAAAAhUg/VclgcJ6MDBs/s1600/DSC_2550.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Spruce, white chocolate, grapefruit, bitters</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Objectively an interesting dessert that I think was well-executed, with a variety of textures and temperatures. I personally have trouble with grapefruit (like beets, I find them exceedingly bitter), so I'll take a pass on this one.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYG9VB3vdKawnJ6kMBagYt5V2BDILx6T4bEn2yrjoU5Sqt4YGLwyf_qdUEynmf7R0IB_7dpzdxhfOZORf51J8GTR5KJjwBQkXuiFhm3eldhSw27acX4_efLUidzTPZfRUlAiJLpAF0OKmy/s1600/DSC_2551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYG9VB3vdKawnJ6kMBagYt5V2BDILx6T4bEn2yrjoU5Sqt4YGLwyf_qdUEynmf7R0IB_7dpzdxhfOZORf51J8GTR5KJjwBQkXuiFhm3eldhSw27acX4_efLUidzTPZfRUlAiJLpAF0OKmy/s1600/DSC_2551.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sunflower seed brittle, apple-bourbon pâte de fruits with sage sugar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Upon receiving our menus after dinner, we realized that we'd somehow missed a course between the bread and sturgeon dishes. After some discussion between our server and GM/co-owner Ashleigh Parsons, our entire meal was comped - very generous and certainly unexpected (although the incident definitely shines a light on their continued growing pains).<br />
<br />
And the food? The tasting menu is more focused and cohesive now - courses flowed with a clear direction, and there was a definite "style". Yet, I kind of miss the free-wheeling nature of our first meal, where flavours seemed to bounce around more (I suppose it's hard to have your cake and eat it, too). alma is growing up. I do think the heaps of accolades it has received are a little premature, but the restaurant can stretch - if you wait until you're ready, you'll be waiting forever.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.alma-la.com/">alma</a></div>
<div>
952 S. Broadway</div>
<div>
Los Angeles, CA 90015</div>
<div>
Phone: (213) 244-1422<br />
<br /></div>
Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-91018607518923026822014-01-22T09:40:00.001-08:002014-01-22T09:40:46.859-08:00Restaurant Eugene - Atlanta, GA<b>Dinner - Monday, December 30, 2013</b><br />
<br />
Linton Hopkins was named the James Beard "Best Chef - Southeast" in 2012, and Restaurant Eugene is the flagship of his restaurant family (although <a href="http://holeman-finch.com/">Holeman & Finch</a> arguably garners more press for its burger). The style here is very classical - broadly speaking, traditional French technique with Southern ingredients. Arguably not the sort of place we typically gravitate towards, but this time, the <i>lack</i> of information about the food here piqued our curiosity.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0yfQ6f7fS8U/UsOKf8U95FI/AAAAAAAAhHw/9VV6iO_osnc/s1600/DSC_2445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0yfQ6f7fS8U/UsOKf8U95FI/AAAAAAAAhHw/9VV6iO_osnc/s640/DSC_2445.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Gougères</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3N9KslQL720/UsOKfZzhMCI/AAAAAAAAhHw/ptBVljE4h04/s1600/DSC_2446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3N9KslQL720/UsOKfZzhMCI/AAAAAAAAhHw/ptBVljE4h04/s640/DSC_2446.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">White grapefruit, swordfish bottarga, brussel sprout, Georgia olive oil</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eMzc_ma7fCI/UsOKcVBMUnI/AAAAAAAAhHw/ush8U89j59Y/s1600/DSC_2447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eMzc_ma7fCI/UsOKcVBMUnI/AAAAAAAAhHw/ush8U89j59Y/s640/DSC_2447.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pimento cheese macarons</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jjW9jBC09q8/UsOKwNrR2ZI/AAAAAAAAhHw/KJKH6CSxkfc/s1600/DSC_2448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jjW9jBC09q8/UsOKwNrR2ZI/AAAAAAAAhHw/KJKH6CSxkfc/s640/DSC_2448.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Brown butter sauteed Georgia apple, toasted brioche, rosemary</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rY2LEJ5zLUo/UsOKzkoTTVI/AAAAAAAAhHw/ZCdoHUYLcYA/s1600/DSC_2449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rY2LEJ5zLUo/UsOKzkoTTVI/AAAAAAAAhHw/ZCdoHUYLcYA/s640/DSC_2449.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Beet soup</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A series of five snacks arrived as soon as we were seated, before we were even presented with menus. The gougères were a little salty for a first bite, kicking my mouth into overdrive. My favourite of the quintet was the macaron - who knew pimento cheese lent itself so well to delicate pastry.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0HzVX9hF8XI/UsOLHHYr1xI/AAAAAAAAhHw/17416fw7ZlU/s1600/DSC_2451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0HzVX9hF8XI/UsOLHHYr1xI/AAAAAAAAhHw/17416fw7ZlU/s640/DSC_2451.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ashed carrots<br />
Beets, brussel sprouts, pecan sorbet, buttermilk</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Great texture on the carrots - tender, but not mushy. I enjoyed their sweetness with the tangy buttermilk and the pecan sorbet (which, by the way, is probably the best example of pecan ice cream I've tasted to date). An excellent way to start a meal, with layers of temperature, texture and flavour.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N79djTLN60Y/UsOK11LjFkI/AAAAAAAAhHw/rUPQHB--rfo/s1600/DSC_2450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N79djTLN60Y/UsOK11LjFkI/AAAAAAAAhHw/rUPQHB--rfo/s640/DSC_2450.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Trout tartare, crisp clams, remoulade</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In stark contrast to the carrots, I actually <i>actively disliked</i> this dish. While the trout tartare and roe had a nice salinity, the rest of the dish was clunky and heavy, quickly overwhelming the raw components and leaving a strong aftertaste.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U0JpFCTH5H8/UsOLKgEigBI/AAAAAAAAhHw/y3OXun6kBOk/s1600/DSC_2452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U0JpFCTH5H8/UsOLKgEigBI/AAAAAAAAhHw/y3OXun6kBOk/s640/DSC_2452.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Foie gras, fleur de sel<br />
Toasted brioche, muscadine membrillo</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fBFdw1qiaOM/UsOLKom_-FI/AAAAAAAAhHw/fWsExvxBhMQ/s1600/DSC_2453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fBFdw1qiaOM/UsOLKom_-FI/AAAAAAAAhHw/fWsExvxBhMQ/s640/DSC_2453.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Alba white truffle, rice grits, fresh turmeric</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Very tasty (as expected), but texturally lacking - the individual rice grains in risotto are a key factor to their draw. Soft grits will never be a fitting substitute. That being said, I'd still gladly eat this again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j6oJv59PYUk/UsOLeOMbkhI/AAAAAAAAhHw/Gt69a2D36Xs/s1600/DSC_2454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j6oJv59PYUk/UsOLeOMbkhI/AAAAAAAAhHw/Gt69a2D36Xs/s640/DSC_2454.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Squash, fennel, kumquat</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This was <i>fantastic</i>. Slices of acorn squash, charred and smoked, lay on scales of roasted fennel. Next to this, a squash dauphinoise - beautifully layered and cooked, with a caramelized surface. Fennel fronds and a dried squash powder adorned the main components. A caramelized kumquat completely changed the profile of the dish, lending some bitterness from its rind to contrast the sweet, earthy squash.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etqVP_p-xGE/UsOLkDgzQYI/AAAAAAAAhHw/XKvEnRgBxdQ/s1600/DSC_2455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etqVP_p-xGE/UsOLkDgzQYI/AAAAAAAAhHw/XKvEnRgBxdQ/s640/DSC_2455.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>White shrimp, Hoppin' John, benne cream</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Described by our server as a "tribute" to Charleston (note the use of the term <i>benne</i> instead of <i>sesame</i>), this was a remarkably delicious take on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoppin'_John">Hoppin' John</a>. Carolina Gold rice was paired with red peas, and topped with some excellent shrimp. The thick, rich sauce was a fitting complement - very enjoyable.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5J3Ou6Lzfaw/UsOLgWLgzfI/AAAAAAAAhHw/GFdP_WxfNgU/s1600/DSC_2456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5J3Ou6Lzfaw/UsOLgWLgzfI/AAAAAAAAhHw/GFdP_WxfNgU/s640/DSC_2456.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lemon sorbet, spice cake, candied ginger</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6goVZAzY_7Q/UsOL1nCKxvI/AAAAAAAAhHw/iHOwvJ2dy7k/s1600/DSC_2457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6goVZAzY_7Q/UsOL1nCKxvI/AAAAAAAAhHw/iHOwvJ2dy7k/s640/DSC_2457.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">North Georgia lion's mane mushrooms<br />
Baked peanuts, watercress, potato</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A really <i>meaty</i> dish, the mushrooms infused with a rich demi-glace. Uncomplicated and delicious.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5WzWf_Xlf0/UsOL393iNMI/AAAAAAAAhHw/bdC5bZiVuVA/s1600/DSC_2460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5WzWf_Xlf0/UsOL393iNMI/AAAAAAAAhHw/bdC5bZiVuVA/s640/DSC_2460.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Beets<br />
Pot likker, chard, Tennessee bacon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdQn3Bf9LAA/UsOL54sIU_I/AAAAAAAAhHw/6mxAsIvKk84/s1600/DSC_2462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdQn3Bf9LAA/UsOL54sIU_I/AAAAAAAAhHw/6mxAsIvKk84/s640/DSC_2462.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Roasted cauliflower "Country Captain"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We enjoyed this course a lot. The generous slab of roasted cauliflower was laid on a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Country_Captain">Country Captain</a> purée, its curry notes a classic match with the brassica. A "granola" of parsley, raisins and peanuts (echoing the ingredients in the purée) was strewn across the plate for texture. Finally, a bitter orange sauce rounded out the flavours.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IlzaIstcpP8/UsOMLypBsHI/AAAAAAAAhHw/DP8via8koqc/s1600/DSC_2463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IlzaIstcpP8/UsOMLypBsHI/AAAAAAAAhHw/DP8via8koqc/s640/DSC_2463.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Veal pot au feu</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Veal loin, shoulder, and sweetbreads, dressed with a light consommé and accompanied by carrots and white turnips - an upscale but straight-laced interpretation. The individual meats were lovely, but I missed the unctuousness and depth of flavour that characterizes the classic.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eUwBaQ18vbk/UsOMOmdwK7I/AAAAAAAAhHw/YiR2cLwwUfY/s1600/DSC_2464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eUwBaQ18vbk/UsOMOmdwK7I/AAAAAAAAhHw/YiR2cLwwUfY/s640/DSC_2464.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Consider Bardwell Farm "Pawlet"<br />
Date chutney, white chocolate</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KupGmiZyUnI/UsOMO8z8hMI/AAAAAAAAhHw/OakWoZakdBg/s1600/DSC_2465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KupGmiZyUnI/UsOMO8z8hMI/AAAAAAAAhHw/OakWoZakdBg/s640/DSC_2465.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pierre Robert<br />
Cherry mustard, sesame wafer</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nosgeBxeYsQ/UsOMhyOKOXI/AAAAAAAAhHw/-FxhR_NvfIk/s1600/DSC_2466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nosgeBxeYsQ/UsOMhyOKOXI/AAAAAAAAhHw/-FxhR_NvfIk/s640/DSC_2466.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Coffee sorbet, spice cake, cocoa nibs</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJwh_37lxro/UsOMjXQua0I/AAAAAAAAhHw/rK9_kxcKX9s/s1600/DSC_2467.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJwh_37lxro/UsOMjXQua0I/AAAAAAAAhHw/rK9_kxcKX9s/s640/DSC_2467.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Quince tatin<br />
Spice caramel, hazelnut praline, Sauternes-soaked raisins</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vOmA__pS5aU/UsOMjeu2n3I/AAAAAAAAhHw/kseO3MXB0Rk/s1600/DSC_2468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vOmA__pS5aU/UsOMjeu2n3I/AAAAAAAAhHw/kseO3MXB0Rk/s640/DSC_2468.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cocoa-dusted chocolate chip cookie dough<br />
Almond streusel, bitter cocoa, cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_Fa5MaunR0/UsOM2nk67uI/AAAAAAAAhHw/Tr2De9Kew8o/s1600/DSC_2469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_Fa5MaunR0/UsOM2nk67uI/AAAAAAAAhHw/Tr2De9Kew8o/s640/DSC_2469.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sticky toffee pudding cake, rum caramel</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C5TqK-s8ocg/UsOM642FeNI/AAAAAAAAhHw/I2Q64bjJaME/s1600/DSC_2470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C5TqK-s8ocg/UsOM642FeNI/AAAAAAAAhHw/I2Q64bjJaME/s640/DSC_2470.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Blood orange pâte de fruits, peanut croquants, financiers</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Although the restaurant is actually rather nondescript, our meal evoked the sense of a bygone age of fine dining - from the style and progression of our courses (many quite <i>rich</i>), to the formally-dressed diners and servers, to the fantastic service (the best of Southern hospitality). To be sure, this was not a meal that we would repeat anytime soon, but we are both left with fond memories of Restaurant Eugene.<br />
<b><br />
</b> <b><br />
</b> <a href="http://restauranteugene.com/">Restaurant Eugene</a><br />
2277 Peachtree Road<br />
Atlanta, GA 30309<br />
Phone: (404) 355-0321Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-19204237447310082592014-01-10T16:03:00.001-08:002014-01-10T16:03:44.391-08:00The Optimist - Atlanta, GA<b>Lunch - Tuesday, December 31, 2013</b><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
Occupying the cavernous space of a former ham-aging warehouse, The Optimist at lunchtime is a bright, airy space filled with wood and iron and rough linen. We stopped by for lunch before heading to the airport - our last meal on this short tour of the South. The food is as good as the space is beautiful.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WrhvhvMy9sM/UsOPo-Wh-vI/AAAAAAAAhPA/rp6Sp1qbg9o/s1600/DSC_2492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WrhvhvMy9sM/UsOPo-Wh-vI/AAAAAAAAhPA/rp6Sp1qbg9o/s1600/DSC_2492.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The open kitchen</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DjJoY0gztPA/UsOPpNnCosI/AAAAAAAAhI8/xGFTF6ZvlYY/s1600/DSC_2495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DjJoY0gztPA/UsOPpNnCosI/AAAAAAAAhI8/xGFTF6ZvlYY/s640/DSC_2495.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Corn milk hush puppies, cane syrup butter</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-POufhDdr-TI/UsOP-8uLfDI/AAAAAAAAhI8/vXISzX5S7FM/s1600/DSC_2497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-POufhDdr-TI/UsOP-8uLfDI/AAAAAAAAhI8/vXISzX5S7FM/s640/DSC_2497.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Seafood gumbo, "pot luck bread"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Rich and hearty with a little spicy kick (I would have liked a bit more) - the perfect remedy for a cold Atlanta winter. The side of buttery garlic bread was a simple pleasure. Strikingly, none of the seafood was overcooked - this really pushed the gumbo from good to great.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QvSmd_MD4uE/UsOPpp8w5gI/AAAAAAAAhI8/kWWDr80eVvQ/s1600/DSC_2496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QvSmd_MD4uE/UsOPpp8w5gI/AAAAAAAAhI8/kWWDr80eVvQ/s640/DSC_2496.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Whole Georgia white shrimp a la plancha<br />
Sopping toast, arbol chile, lime</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To quote the menu, this was very "messy, but worth it". The Georgia white shrimp, while not about to replace Palamos shrimp in my book any time soon, were grilled nicely and smothered in the piquant sauce. They were laid over a slice of crusty toast, and showered with fried garlic chips. This was a lusty, in-your-face dish - I loved it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bU6qe5ZXryw/UsOP_82oP_I/AAAAAAAAhI8/rCTiN6zdO8M/s1600/DSC_2499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bU6qe5ZXryw/UsOP_82oP_I/AAAAAAAAhI8/rCTiN6zdO8M/s640/DSC_2499.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Blackened triggerfish sandwich, slaw, fries</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MhCFdsaI1As/UsOP__UX8hI/AAAAAAAAhI8/BWl43-zCkAo/s1600/DSC_2498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MhCFdsaI1As/UsOP__UX8hI/AAAAAAAAhI8/BWl43-zCkAo/s640/DSC_2498.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ale-battered cod<br />
Hand torn potatoes, malt vinegar aioli</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the best examples of fish and chips that I've had in the USA. The fish was thick, firm and flaky, with a thin shell of crispy batter and no hint of grease. A liberal sprinkling of sea salt and some dill enhanced its flavour even more. On the side, chunks of crispy potato (also battered?) that actually tasted like <i>potato</i>. I was caught off guard by how good this plate was - really impressive.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6xIKIH5XUJ0/UsOQGIn0QVI/AAAAAAAAhI8/AD97uQ4fT0A/s1600/DSC_2501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6xIKIH5XUJ0/UsOQGIn0QVI/AAAAAAAAhI8/AD97uQ4fT0A/s640/DSC_2501.jpg" height="" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Toasted coconut sorbet</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I regret not having the time to explore the raw side of their menu during our meal. Certainly, The Optimist would be in our regular rotation if we lived in Atlanta. This is the kind of restaurant I wish we had (and people wrongly assume we do) in San Diego - a serious, no-frills approach to high-quality (and sustainable) seafood. Certainly, our sunny city can lay claim to better local product than land-locked Atlanta - so then, where are the takers?<br />
<br />
<b><br />
</b> <a href="http://theoptimistrestaurant.com/">The Optimist</a><br />
914 Howell Mill Road<br />
Atlanta, GA 30318<br />
Phone: (404) 477-6260Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-80839472775128323802014-01-02T11:08:00.000-08:002014-01-02T11:08:51.535-08:00McCrady's - Charleston, SC<b>Dinner - Friday, December 27, 2013</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n7vMWhClDws/Ur7Pb0tVT-I/AAAAAAAAgvY/uWpKKpE2kxY/s1600/DSC_2353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n7vMWhClDws/Ur7Pb0tVT-I/AAAAAAAAgvY/uWpKKpE2kxY/s400/DSC_2353.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Before Husk propelled Sean Brock into the stratosphere, there was McCrady's. When it first opened, the restaurant had a fairly strong molecular gastronomy bent, but this has been significantly dialed back over the years, as Brock's cuisine has evolved.<br />
<br />
While not as tethered to the South as Husk, there is still a strong sense of place at McCrady's. This is first expressed in the <a href="http://mccradysrestaurant.com/about-us/history/">18th century building</a> (older even than Husk's space) that the restaurant occupies - a beautiful wood-and-brick structure that is warm and inviting. The menu, too, emphasizes regional ingredients, although with an appropriately playful spin in many dishes.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q4_JAxp4jYA/Ur7PUOUO0MI/AAAAAAAAgvY/zUO9m1yb6hI/s1600/DSC_2354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q4_JAxp4jYA/Ur7PUOUO0MI/AAAAAAAAgvY/zUO9m1yb6hI/s640/DSC_2354.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Grouper brandade fritters, ramp tartar</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We began the evening at the bar with some great cocktails (including a concoction from bartender Ryan Casey called the Antagonist - one of the best drinks I had in 2013). Due to some confusion, our bar snack never arrived while we were there, and showed up at the beginning of our tasting menu instead, as a gift. Nicely fried and very assertive - fortunately, the rest of the menu was not overwhelmed by these bites.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qEi2v25UI_U/Ur7PYyrmq-I/AAAAAAAAgvY/ecvJv9by9bY/s1600/DSC_2355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qEi2v25UI_U/Ur7PYyrmq-I/AAAAAAAAgvY/ecvJv9by9bY/s640/DSC_2355.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">House-made coppa</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_8Vj0G1T5mg/Ur7PpJHl_gI/AAAAAAAAgvY/dQnCkc5n0rk/s1600/DSC_2356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_8Vj0G1T5mg/Ur7PpJHl_gI/AAAAAAAAgvY/dQnCkc5n0rk/s640/DSC_2356.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Uni bottarga, Meyer lemon, dashi egg yolk, Carolina rice cracker</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The rice cracker, coloured with squid ink, served as a striking canvas for the other ingredients. The syrupy dashi egg yolk was phenomenal in taste as well as texture, and provided the hydration to express the dried uni's flavour.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1ieUNdmz-SE/Ur7PwCkXd0I/AAAAAAAAgvY/_ke3ffM1Luo/s1600/DSC_2358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1ieUNdmz-SE/Ur7PwCkXd0I/AAAAAAAAgvY/_ke3ffM1Luo/s640/DSC_2358.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Chestnut, roselle</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Fritters of chestnut meal, topped with roselle purée and shavings of raw chestnut. These were <i>hot</i>, reminding me of eating roasted chestnuts in Asia, followed by a soothing hibiscus tea - all in one bite.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ecJJqv3zPvY/Ur7PsSccwoI/AAAAAAAAgvY/r8v1j732jPs/s1600/DSC_2359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ecJJqv3zPvY/Ur7PsSccwoI/AAAAAAAAgvY/r8v1j732jPs/s640/DSC_2359.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Beet, lime, nasturtium</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tnw8_Hq6QJU/Ur7QAdviNII/AAAAAAAAgvY/cUv9ISGZAng/s1600/DSC_2360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tnw8_Hq6QJU/Ur7QAdviNII/AAAAAAAAgvY/cUv9ISGZAng/s640/DSC_2360.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>South Carolina clams</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Fall vegetables, wild bay, wood sorrel</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Local clams atop pumpkin and carrots in various forms (raw, poached and pickled). The <i>very</i> well-prepared vegetables (hitting all points on the taste/texture spectrum) outshone the rather forgettable protein here.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j-mAZTYb3Ss/Ur7P8k6VZSI/AAAAAAAAgvY/JeqAVElbfAE/s1600/DSC_2364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j-mAZTYb3Ss/Ur7P8k6VZSI/AAAAAAAAgvY/JeqAVElbfAE/s640/DSC_2364.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Lightly smoked trout</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Brassicas, Meyer lemon, thyme</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At this level, I don't expect anything less than perfectly-cooked fish, and the kitchen delivered. A nice touch was the fish skin being removed and cooked separately, rendering it ultra-crispy. Everything was brought together by a sauce of fermented cabbage mounted with brown butter - this was <i>amazing</i>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5oaaLixmTo/Ur7QJ6uptvI/AAAAAAAAgvY/q-CMqaENQG0/s1600/DSC_2365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5oaaLixmTo/Ur7QJ6uptvI/AAAAAAAAgvY/q-CMqaENQG0/s640/DSC_2365.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">"Charleston ice cream"</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A signature dish of the restaurant, with good reason - this was our dish of the evening, edging out the pork course <i>(see below)</i>. Carolina Gold rice was aged with wild bay leaves for 3 years in red oak barrels, then cooked to a fluffy, creamy consistency. The small, loose clump of rice was topped with benne (sesame) seeds and herbs from the rooftop garden. A Charleston equivalent of the best sushi - as always, it's all about the rice.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LraNnu5HY_o/Ur7QMiGZ9kI/AAAAAAAAgvY/8ewHjhB5-2g/s1600/DSC_2367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LraNnu5HY_o/Ur7QMiGZ9kI/AAAAAAAAgvY/8ewHjhB5-2g/s640/DSC_2367.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Berkshire pork</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Heirloom pumpkin, burnt honey, black truffle</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is one of those magical dishes that needs to be tasted to be fully understood. The risotto of diced and puréed pumpkin was creamy but light, and the piece of pork with its intact fat cap was fantastic (am I entering a meat-craving phase this year?). Above all, the combination of burnt honey and truffle was just <i>so</i> enticing - I really wanted to keep eating this over and over.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6cDosmK4RRU/Ur7Qc8WGLwI/AAAAAAAAgvY/3Axhx35PIe4/s1600/DSC_2368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6cDosmK4RRU/Ur7Qc8WGLwI/AAAAAAAAgvY/3Axhx35PIe4/s640/DSC_2368.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Katahdin lamb</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Celeriac, cameo apple, rye</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F88I8WyCS7c/Ur7QjR8GTuI/AAAAAAAAgvY/AnRNJgw2Xu0/s1600/DSC_2369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F88I8WyCS7c/Ur7QjR8GTuI/AAAAAAAAgvY/AnRNJgw2Xu0/s640/DSC_2369.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Ember cocoa nib brioche, vanilla bourbon bavarois</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
We were instructed to dip the bread into the cocoa-dusted bavarois. The combination was remarkably good - there was just the right level of smokiness and woodsiness without overwhelming the subtler notes.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M4v61ORrn20/Ur7Qi5kvUbI/AAAAAAAAgvY/lKeEchR6ZHM/s1600/DSC_2370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M4v61ORrn20/Ur7Qi5kvUbI/AAAAAAAAgvY/lKeEchR6ZHM/s640/DSC_2370.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Carrot cremeux</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Ginger meringue, coriander, shortbread crumble, yuzu</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pJkZ_F1by0/Ur7Qt7jZEiI/AAAAAAAAgvY/aMkGjqeLRb8/s1600/DSC_2371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pJkZ_F1by0/Ur7Qt7jZEiI/AAAAAAAAgvY/aMkGjqeLRb8/s640/DSC_2371.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Chocolate gateau, satsuma sherbet, tarragon</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GGj_lgZId_M/Ur7QwoMoITI/AAAAAAAAgvY/3aKUYiIDZzk/s1600/DSC_2373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GGj_lgZId_M/Ur7QwoMoITI/AAAAAAAAgvY/3aKUYiIDZzk/s640/DSC_2373.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Chocolate ganache, white chocolate and brown sugar macarons, benne madeleines</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Oscillating between global and hyper-local, the tasting menu was a romp through the minds of Brock and new chef de cuisine <a href="https://twitter.com/danoheinze">Daniel Heinze</a>. While I confess that <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/12/husk-charleston-sc.html">our dinner at Husk</a> the night before took the crown for eye-opening (and educational) meals this trip, this was not an experience we would have missed. Again, the food here highlights a gap in my knowledge of the South that waits to be filled.<br />
<b><br />
</b> <b><br />
</b> <a href="http://mccradysrestaurant.com/">McCrady's</a><br />
2 Unity Alley<br />
Charleston, SC 29401<br />
Phone: (843) 577-0025Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-80651139568601096872013-12-28T19:44:00.000-08:002013-12-28T19:44:54.847-08:00Husk - Charleston, SC<b>Dinner - Thursday, December 26, 2013</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUf_M9uIgq4/Ur0FFl2Ku6I/AAAAAAAAgls/DREnikdyuOA/s1600/DSC_2321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUf_M9uIgq4/Ur0FFl2Ku6I/AAAAAAAAgls/DREnikdyuOA/s400/DSC_2321.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Husk really needs no introduction - the restaurant and <a href="http://twitter.com/hseanbrock">Sean Brock</a> have received saturating levels of national press for its commitment to using (and reviving) Southern ingredients.<br />
<br />
All the food served at the restaurant is sourced from a region bordered to the north by the Mason-Dixon line, and to the west by Texas. Now, provenance is one thing, but taste is a completely separate matter - I must admit to being a little skeptical of all the hype. Thus, we arrived at dinner with a small degree of trepidation, hoping that the evening would not bomb out. I'm happy to report that it exceeded expectations, and ended up being our favourite meal in Charleston.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
We started the evening with whiskey and cocktails at Husk's bar, in an adjacent building. The space is all dark wood and incandescent lighting - warm and welcoming. Drinks were above par, though not as good as the outstanding creations we had the next night at McCrady's. From there, we segued into the 19th century main house for dinner proper.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SRYm95qwHes/Ur0EcYPTt0I/AAAAAAAAgk0/3ZZv_ZCDoUs/s1600/DSC_2314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SRYm95qwHes/Ur0EcYPTt0I/AAAAAAAAgk0/3ZZv_ZCDoUs/s640/DSC_2314.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sweetwater Valley cheddar pimento cheese<br />
Pickled ramps, Benton's bacon jam, benne crackers</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AXfIj3HZ6tU/Ur0EivQEJhI/AAAAAAAAgk8/0LEtvh2ypmY/s1600/DSC_2315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AXfIj3HZ6tU/Ur0EivQEJhI/AAAAAAAAgk8/0LEtvh2ypmY/s640/DSC_2315.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Dave's wood-fired clams, fried chicken skins<br />
Holy City beer broth, sweet onion, spinach, shitake</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Very</i> addictive - I could've easily downed a mound of the chicken skins. They were actually quite neutral in flavour, and did not overwhelm the mild clams. The broth of clam liquor and Charleston stout, was rich, sweet and onion-y. Per our server's suggestion, I mopped up all the liquid with the equally delicious cornbread <i>(see below)</i>. Fantastic.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-50ggRXS72a4/Ur0EluILiVI/AAAAAAAAglE/CKvcv8cV0Oc/s1600/DSC_2316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-50ggRXS72a4/Ur0EluILiVI/AAAAAAAAglE/CKvcv8cV0Oc/s640/DSC_2316.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cornbread, Benton's Tennessee bacon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Absolutely gorgeous crust all around (although the edges are still my personal favourite). The picture makes it look deceivingly large, but the skillet only measured about 7" across. I didn't pick up much bacon, and frankly, I didn't need it - the flavour of the corn stood by itself. I can see why this never comes off the menu.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hmZVAYUZVG0/Ur0E33x5_FI/AAAAAAAAglM/hQjRHcV6tf4/s1600/DSC_2317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hmZVAYUZVG0/Ur0E33x5_FI/AAAAAAAAglM/hQjRHcV6tf4/s640/DSC_2317.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Tennessee heritage pork, bourbon glacé<br />
Heirloom pumpkin, turnip and apple mostarda, Napa cabbage</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A roulade of pork shoulder around a filling of diced belly, cooked sous-vide for over a day, then finished in the wood-fired oven. The texture of the finished product was <i>amazing</i> - rather than being mushy, its charred exterior gave way to flaky chunks of tender flesh. The crisp, tangy vegetables were a perfect accompaniment to the sweet, lightly smoky meat. We usually eschew large meat courses, but this and the bison dish below were probably the strongest courses of the evening.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DeohFRw8D1g/Ur0E9aFsE-I/AAAAAAAAglU/zz4rWGJOE6k/s1600/DSC_2318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DeohFRw8D1g/Ur0E9aFsE-I/AAAAAAAAglU/zz4rWGJOE6k/s640/DSC_2318.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>North Carolina bison short ribs, madeira glacé<br />
Geechie Boy grits, ember-roasted mushrooms, winter greens</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--g0WXa9b_v0/Ur0FAhvDmXI/AAAAAAAAglc/T83W7o8aKKM/s1600/DSC_2320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--g0WXa9b_v0/Ur0FAhvDmXI/AAAAAAAAglc/T83W7o8aKKM/s640/DSC_2320.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Bourbon pound cake<br />
Pumpkin brittle, pumpkin ice cream, pumpkin sorghum purée</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The dessert was all about the <i>intense</i> pumpkin - excellent in every form. The pound cake was a touch dry, and needed the ice cream and purée for moisture. Our final course really drove home how the crew at Husk is able to coax amazing flavour out of "everyday" ingredients - very impressive.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O_AtbmkkELE/Urz90T11oyI/AAAAAAAAgh4/8QRsAiVorag/s1600/DSC_2295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O_AtbmkkELE/Urz90T11oyI/AAAAAAAAgh4/8QRsAiVorag/s640/DSC_2295.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Husk by day</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Husk makes no attempts at strict adherence to Lowcountry cuisine - its self-limited pantry unleashes the kitchen's creativity with technique (their house-made kimchi is an excellent example of this). Given the highs of our meal here, I'm very curious to see how its Nashville counterpart compares. I'm also very interested in delving deeper into the history of Southern cookery, of which I only have vague notions. Further research (and perhaps another trip) is in order.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/">Husk</a><br />
76 Queen St.<br />
Charleston, SC 29401<br />
Phone: (843) 577-2500Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-30662031407776274172013-11-22T19:12:00.000-08:002013-11-22T19:12:55.231-08:00Aubergine - Carmel, CA<b>Dinner - Sunday, November 17, 2013</b><br />
<br />
When traveling, it's unusual for us to visit an out-of-town restaurant more than once within a short time span - there're just so many places to try. Yet, this is our <i>third</i> meal at Aubergine this year - a testament to the house that <a href="http://twitter.com/justincogley">Justin Cogley</a> and <a href="http://twitter.com/rm_pastry">Ron Mendoza</a> have built. On this night, we shared our meal with two others who had each come <i>long</i> distances to dine here. Over four hours, we ate our way through 25 courses - an evening that will not soon be forgotten.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vplvCxOdf8E/Uou-5CPwP_I/AAAAAAAAgaA/3cKe2eCMuvc/s1600/DSC_2190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vplvCxOdf8E/Uou-5CPwP_I/AAAAAAAAgaA/3cKe2eCMuvc/s640/DSC_2190.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sparkling green tea, pomegranate, shiso</span></i> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E4mhMOdC_2o/Uou-5A24CRI/AAAAAAAAgaA/tR0WpsBPc3E/s1600/DSC_2191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E4mhMOdC_2o/Uou-5A24CRI/AAAAAAAAgaA/tR0WpsBPc3E/s640/DSC_2191.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Tea-smoked quail eggs</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQZsLLQHZyYti4h6bakS0VtZct8cHD6-TQteNDjRHcvRN5nxyj5_lvqdeTE3CGBqKCcdJy0ak8Al_XlGK_xJNRJGPt4dq_SksgeP6vn6wZp-lcThPKR8pM9cgRvxtbD8rpGdAc3nnCxE2/s1600/DSC_2192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQZsLLQHZyYti4h6bakS0VtZct8cHD6-TQteNDjRHcvRN5nxyj5_lvqdeTE3CGBqKCcdJy0ak8Al_XlGK_xJNRJGPt4dq_SksgeP6vn6wZp-lcThPKR8pM9cgRvxtbD8rpGdAc3nnCxE2/s640/DSC_2192.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dried kelp, beach spinach aioli</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5jXP3zCPJ0/Uou-6UDKzGI/AAAAAAAAgaA/JvkQcBOagyM/s1600/DSC_2193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5jXP3zCPJ0/Uou-6UDKzGI/AAAAAAAAgaA/JvkQcBOagyM/s640/DSC_2193.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Miyazaki wagyu tartare, roe</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M0Is50ORUjE/Uou-7LnfxJI/AAAAAAAAgaA/IdQnUv_xv1E/s1600/DSC_2194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M0Is50ORUjE/Uou-7LnfxJI/AAAAAAAAgaA/IdQnUv_xv1E/s640/DSC_2194.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Flax, apricot, white cheddar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Vwef_3rPERmHxMapvDWZ7xjRGfHTnULbZPaEeW6G9KWCEPe8sfRmpnSz1WrMChxPQ-TiohnCm6lYuFf9hPco5CDcJSaq-VXHqGdlcQS7xsHQNDzjeXhDk3VAm2fiKJTUeEzhWQ-z8O73/s1600/DSC_2195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Vwef_3rPERmHxMapvDWZ7xjRGfHTnULbZPaEeW6G9KWCEPe8sfRmpnSz1WrMChxPQ-TiohnCm6lYuFf9hPco5CDcJSaq-VXHqGdlcQS7xsHQNDzjeXhDk3VAm2fiKJTUeEzhWQ-z8O73/s640/DSC_2195.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Crispy potato, oyster emulsion, radish flower</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As with previous meals, the kitchen led off with a series of snacks. The fried potato nests topped with a thick oyster cream were particularly good - strong and assertive.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i6i65T7vQmM/Uou-8XWsr5I/AAAAAAAAgaA/plYIzmyN1bg/s1600/DSC_2198.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i6i65T7vQmM/Uou-8XWsr5I/AAAAAAAAgaA/plYIzmyN1bg/s640/DSC_2198.jpg" width="690" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Emri_8xIYHM/Uou-7Eh7Q5I/AAAAAAAAgaA/D2-bzhteCiE/s1600/DSC_2196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Emri_8xIYHM/Uou-7Eh7Q5I/AAAAAAAAgaA/D2-bzhteCiE/s640/DSC_2196.jpg" width="690" /></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mendocino sea urchin</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;">Local milk panna cotta, sea grapes, lime zest</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A gift from a local harvester, the uni were the largest I've ever seen - each tongue was two fingers thick and as long as my palm! The unworldly size conferred an unusually firm texture, and it tasted sweet, with no metal and very little brine. We spooned the tongues over a raw milk panna cotta, melding its tangy creaminess with the sea urchin. <i>Amazing</i>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bdBbg4Z8ZwQ/Uou-8TgZKqI/AAAAAAAAgaA/eBeBHqs_2PM/s1600/DSC_2201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bdBbg4Z8ZwQ/Uou-8TgZKqI/AAAAAAAAgaA/eBeBHqs_2PM/s640/DSC_2201.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dungeness crab, pears fermented in elderflower vinegar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pgkf0NaIA1U/Uou-8zbsTdI/AAAAAAAAgaA/tFkAQjYGcmw/s1600/DSC_2203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pgkf0NaIA1U/Uou-8zbsTdI/AAAAAAAAgaA/tFkAQjYGcmw/s640/DSC_2203.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Salsify, chestnut, apple, cinnamon snow</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The earthy, spicy flavours of Autumn came early in the meal. I found the components slightly too sweet at this point in the progression, although it set up the next course nicely.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z3YYelJ8yXk/Uou-9bGLX3I/AAAAAAAAgaA/mQBoeEHs0Cc/s1600/DSC_2206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z3YYelJ8yXk/Uou-9bGLX3I/AAAAAAAAgaA/mQBoeEHs0Cc/s640/DSC_2206.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Duck liver, toasted brioche<br />
Grapes, arugula, smoked leeks, hibiscus gelée</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4HUKR-bgP5E/Uou-9ZpdaYI/AAAAAAAAgaA/SI7tC3nMPSU/s1600/DSC_2210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4HUKR-bgP5E/Uou-9ZpdaYI/AAAAAAAAgaA/SI7tC3nMPSU/s640/DSC_2210.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">New England scallop<br />
Meyer lemon, lemon balm</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The scallop, cooked in its shell, was laid atop an intriguing service piece - a curled-up "feather boa" kelp, still moist and springy. We quite enjoyed the herbal, lemony notes of this dish after the richness of the previous course.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YjSj3tjtFaU/Uou-96gnezI/AAAAAAAAgaA/8bTgyXSLS4A/s1600/DSC_2212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YjSj3tjtFaU/Uou-96gnezI/AAAAAAAAgaA/8bTgyXSLS4A/s640/DSC_2212.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Kanpachi<br />
Kohlrabi, lovage, whey, citron</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Delicious</i>. The texture of the barely-cooked fish was <i>so</i> supple, and it contrasted with the crisp kohlrabi nicely. The aromatic sauce of lovage and whey was also memorable - milky and vegetal at the same time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GtbbKnu5vu0/Uou--qXIylI/AAAAAAAAgaA/QMQWBeAFi_g/s1600/DSC_2218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GtbbKnu5vu0/Uou--qXIylI/AAAAAAAAgaA/QMQWBeAFi_g/s640/DSC_2218.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Sablefish, crispy skin<br />
Siberian caviar, oyster emulsion, wood sorrel</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgheY2lSrJQFUvh__KCABI_pIuPMzeIaucnz2SYYtmCxagbibHQUWTzoof0rnWqgQOxlDYJfJt36aVDfg9mMmaqKwzuKejIl-5-SAT9eTQuCCkscT5S3y3rShyLGtDg5gd_Ylc4VId1m02w/s1600/DSC_2219.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgheY2lSrJQFUvh__KCABI_pIuPMzeIaucnz2SYYtmCxagbibHQUWTzoof0rnWqgQOxlDYJfJt36aVDfg9mMmaqKwzuKejIl-5-SAT9eTQuCCkscT5S3y3rShyLGtDg5gd_Ylc4VId1m02w/s640/DSC_2219.jpg" width="690" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidqsLAH16P7hhyYNhBy0bGGcVo1uh8lHu6RLlGBDKej9J390RBt9vWcspa8m6IlM5jlZGU5XBAc6ItRdGrYwsc0uygc7XRi2Rss6Pn3gqh83hO_iwpFkk3zZ-AraiygzsYP52aL-U24BXJ/s1600/DSC_2221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidqsLAH16P7hhyYNhBy0bGGcVo1uh8lHu6RLlGBDKej9J390RBt9vWcspa8m6IlM5jlZGU5XBAc6ItRdGrYwsc0uygc7XRi2Rss6Pn3gqh83hO_iwpFkk3zZ-AraiygzsYP52aL-U24BXJ/s640/DSC_2221.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mendocino abalone<br />
Dulse, hijiki, finger lime, buckwheat, juice of butternut squash</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were presented with an absolutely monstrous abalone, another gift to the restaurant that they were kind enough to share with us. The mollusc was estimated to be over 70 years old - a humbling thought (and certainly not something that should be consumed on a regular basis). It had been cooking for 4 hours before our arrival, and was whisked away to be portioned. It returned, dressed with seaweed and topped with a buckwheat crisp that tasted remarkably like fish skin. Over all of this, the runny juice of squash was poured. Sweet, briny, tangy - <i>fantastic</i>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mxL1dz5WoAo/Uou-_D8ikqI/AAAAAAAAgaA/PsTkG31gvLA/s1600/DSC_2224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mxL1dz5WoAo/Uou-_D8ikqI/AAAAAAAAgaA/PsTkG31gvLA/s640/DSC_2224.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Roulade of young chicken<br />
Leeks, black trumpets, wild rice</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihaXIp9byR3zwLKtIhOHkNFS2cNC-Q4zFO12dLOFdvs0M2Moa5DDY_-tiB4vnDpjXrklmQyyzsli4drk1cHaJDotLpwByxCXHMz2FadwPVCuezsDqYPQHP5A7YdwKFwS5OEVVgkya4Hynj/s1600/DSC_2228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihaXIp9byR3zwLKtIhOHkNFS2cNC-Q4zFO12dLOFdvs0M2Moa5DDY_-tiB4vnDpjXrklmQyyzsli4drk1cHaJDotLpwByxCXHMz2FadwPVCuezsDqYPQHP5A7YdwKFwS5OEVVgkya4Hynj/s640/DSC_2228.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lamb<br />
Moroccan spices, turnip, milk skin</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Shoulder and tongue of lamb, cooked separately, both with nicely browned surfaces - two textures and tastes. The dish had an interesting pairing of the powerful Moroccan spices with the much milder turnip and milk skin - it worked surprisingly well, although the plate as a whole was rather dry.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_WGr2hY24q4/Uou_Ahubi0I/AAAAAAAAgaA/Wo46BXuzU2o/s1600/DSC_2231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_WGr2hY24q4/Uou_Ahubi0I/AAAAAAAAgaA/Wo46BXuzU2o/s640/DSC_2231.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Miyazaki A5 wagyu</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Somewhat of a signature dish at Aubergine - grade A5 wagyu that has been washed in sake, seared, washed in soy sauce, seared again, then wrapped in nori and seared a third time. It was accompanied by <i>(from left)</i> matsutake, Meyer lemon kasuzuke, umeboshi puree, aged soybeans and a slice of myoga. It never disappoints.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4At5FIElQXJLEhFP1v-gPeQB4y9irXEMY18AtJ2xoY2FeDOvI6J9Zk3ep-I3pwcuzWYl0fH8O7IrVN2rdj6ufJOglDWpbJxnI1NEcVlYM_xcM6mYrHBJ2fSjc_gPbUbY12X0EOju6DVKs/s1600/DSC_2239.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4At5FIElQXJLEhFP1v-gPeQB4y9irXEMY18AtJ2xoY2FeDOvI6J9Zk3ep-I3pwcuzWYl0fH8O7IrVN2rdj6ufJOglDWpbJxnI1NEcVlYM_xcM6mYrHBJ2fSjc_gPbUbY12X0EOju6DVKs/s640/DSC_2239.jpg" width="690" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPLU1jTlrzgT0qjNdpexBIFr5h66_Sj9W7O7mDV1arO57__5ApWfwMafMkyMtwo5yH7Fz9nyAQJicvb1MiSj5YMjiCEKZtAwN2ZFuaJnCPNoVuKAGolT05PgfdM0UmMfLL_5Y1we47AIQj/s1600/DSC_2238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPLU1jTlrzgT0qjNdpexBIFr5h66_Sj9W7O7mDV1arO57__5ApWfwMafMkyMtwo5yH7Fz9nyAQJicvb1MiSj5YMjiCEKZtAwN2ZFuaJnCPNoVuKAGolT05PgfdM0UmMfLL_5Y1we47AIQj/s640/DSC_2238.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cheese and accoutrements </span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The cheese board offered the largest selection of Andante Dairy cheeses I've ever had on one plate - I recall five! Also present - the now verboten Mimolette. I somehow missed the news that Mimolette had been <a href="http://www.sfgate.com/food/cheesecourse/article/FDA-bans-Mimolette-over-mites-used-on-rind-4926637.php">banned by the FDA</a> - a real pity. The sheer quantity was a little overwhelming at this point in the meal, but we put up a valiant effort (helped by the most delicious apple butter and warm, crisp toast).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3TQJWbxS7Ao/Uou_BQgSn6I/AAAAAAAAgaA/6cgl1avsBPc/s1600/DSC_2244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3TQJWbxS7Ao/Uou_BQgSn6I/AAAAAAAAgaA/6cgl1avsBPc/s640/DSC_2244.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Cucumber, lime</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xoua0Q4Q38A/Uou_CEfbzfI/AAAAAAAAgaA/5WbCsSQdviw/s1600/DSC_2246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xoua0Q4Q38A/Uou_CEfbzfI/AAAAAAAAgaA/5WbCsSQdviw/s640/DSC_2246.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Japanese cheesecake, shiso sorbet, Tahitian vanilla yogurt</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I <i>love</i> Japanese cheesecake, so my opinion is a little coloured, but this was <i>excellent</i>. The sorbet was brilliant as well, bright and spicy with a touch of sugar.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wtKr706Y1AU/Uou_CNar8xI/AAAAAAAAgaA/o6CWWTVKg8E/s1600/DSC_2250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wtKr706Y1AU/Uou_CNar8xI/AAAAAAAAgaA/o6CWWTVKg8E/s640/DSC_2250.jpg" width="690" /></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Apple, puff pastry, goat's milk ice cream</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
A course honed to its bare essentials, signaling the coming Winter. Crisp caramelized puff pastry, shaved apple, and a cold, creamy element. Elegantly plated and a refined balance of ingredients.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H-C-mZ8_Kjg/Uou_DHHJVxI/AAAAAAAAgaA/1xh_YBVlOrc/s1600/DSC_2253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H-C-mZ8_Kjg/Uou_DHHJVxI/AAAAAAAAgaA/1xh_YBVlOrc/s640/DSC_2253.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sunchoke, walnut, white chocolate, tangerine granita</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
A week after our meal, I am still torn about this dish. I was <i>very</i> taken by the earthy sunchoke cream and walnuts, but the granita came off as harsh and overly acidic (although perhaps necessary to balance the other ingredients). I rarely feel so conflicted, and I wish I had a chance to try it again to make up my mind.</div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qfkTQEDrwxeTpsEZ3L5GEU1AvE-dz-TlJNLQdOh70rjMg0bfHv6-XyrCuQVARIh-aEe0zJ-d7jgImrJ-lxeEieiUAEmZEvoTQuSVJtIngjQm5GWkGnQcas5viTRslL-8qeEkanoWtj_T/s1600/DSC_2256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qfkTQEDrwxeTpsEZ3L5GEU1AvE-dz-TlJNLQdOh70rjMg0bfHv6-XyrCuQVARIh-aEe0zJ-d7jgImrJ-lxeEieiUAEmZEvoTQuSVJtIngjQm5GWkGnQcas5viTRslL-8qeEkanoWtj_T/s640/DSC_2256.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Beet, horseradish ice cream, chocolate</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2uk8X1geRYQ/Uou_DywDTJI/AAAAAAAAgaA/cuSiMnx33TY/s1600/DSC_2258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2uk8X1geRYQ/Uou_DywDTJI/AAAAAAAAgaA/cuSiMnx33TY/s640/DSC_2258.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mini madeleines</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bk2Fx8Sa44s/Uou_EJLaepI/AAAAAAAAgaA/DfDrBFTrOds/s1600/DSC_2261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bk2Fx8Sa44s/Uou_EJLaepI/AAAAAAAAgaA/DfDrBFTrOds/s640/DSC_2261.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Fried tapioca with juniper sugar, cocoa-dusted raspberry ganache, sweet potato stones</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The marathon concluded with mignardises, my favourite of which was the sweet potato ice cream encased in a gingerbread sablé - it was my perfect last bite.<br />
<br />
Great food, great company - that's all she wrote. When a cuisine exposes itself the way Justin Cogley's has, analysis is unnecessary. Go, eat, taste. Sadly, I don't foresee any more visits to Aubergine for us in the near future (certainly not in the first half of 2014), but this dining room is more than worth a detour.<br />
<br />
<i>NB: Since our <a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/09/aubergine-carmel-ca.html">previous visit in September</a>, the restaurant has evidently (finally) received its own website - a welcome recognition of the critical acclaim it has received.</i><br />
<i><br />
</i> <i><br />
</i> <a href="http://auberginecarmel.com/">Aubergine</a><br />
Monte Verde at Seventh<br />
Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93921<br />
Phone: (831) 624-8578Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-58049254152054429652013-10-14T16:30:00.000-07:002013-10-14T16:30:13.631-07:00TRUST at Playground - Santa Ana, CA<b>Dinner - Saturday, October 12, 2013</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Kxnc6ft_ver7s96JvedNXr0XpVmA_qVpYmB5hePqzcOlIPwa9tHWdG3s3-funlCaQkPjs9GOWdtq4qw3SYlNbSyL03rw9iL2hK9sEw-6Odc4BZDRM4EhGYZICLXWe4xZANBeydReoJoS/s1600/DSC_2182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Kxnc6ft_ver7s96JvedNXr0XpVmA_qVpYmB5hePqzcOlIPwa9tHWdG3s3-funlCaQkPjs9GOWdtq4qw3SYlNbSyL03rw9iL2hK9sEw-6Odc4BZDRM4EhGYZICLXWe4xZANBeydReoJoS/s400/DSC_2182.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Santa Ana always struck me as "that place between San Diego and Los Angeles". Indeed, I would've never thought about making a trip there if we hadn't been running a race in nearby Long Beach. Some restaurant hunting yielded a series of interesting blog posts about a restaurant called Playground in downtown Santa Ana. Further investigation showed that they were running a small dinner series called TRUST, a tasting menu at their chef's counter (interestingly, in a space separate from the main restaurant).<br />
<br />
TRUST is billed as a refined experience, where the kitchen is able to perfect dishes from the more ad-lib menu in the main restaurant, while also focusing on better ingredients and a more cohesive narrative. As it turns out, it was still a huge mishmash, but our dinner was engaging and quite a lot of fun.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRozsAMKZISsxfgqfKN4cMgnuOHaBBTzqcyDAtZA1yHEccEuMTKjPqkb-X5eY4F1SqDs8Eqcyg7GpZFYB_lHccFx5iMDs96a_5KIv6q419KB-eoU08ztGTCa9E674MSm0U3GuCAOEgjK2q/s1600/DSC_2163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRozsAMKZISsxfgqfKN4cMgnuOHaBBTzqcyDAtZA1yHEccEuMTKjPqkb-X5eY4F1SqDs8Eqcyg7GpZFYB_lHccFx5iMDs96a_5KIv6q419KB-eoU08ztGTCa9E674MSm0U3GuCAOEgjK2q/s640/DSC_2163.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Baja yellowtail belly<br />
Finger lime aioli, grated palm sugar</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Caught off the Baja coast by executive chef Jason Quinn, the fish was relatively lean, with a fresh, clean taste. Very nice when paired with the tart aioli and rich palm sugar.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YeeLYc5CXs8/Ulso-p8LfRI/AAAAAAAAgUg/JQ3jtCi19RM/s1600/DSC_2164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YeeLYc5CXs8/Ulso-p8LfRI/AAAAAAAAgUg/JQ3jtCi19RM/s640/DSC_2164.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Parmesan churros, black pepper</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Excellent texture in the <i>hot</i> churros. It's rather refreshing to see black pepper used so liberally - it was front and center, battling with the Parmesan. This would make a great bar snack.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13xnL9LG3d30sfaZsTRTUl5Ei9qbvXrfg1ML8BDUXixJ3e6lHJQxCyTCgBfcgt4LDWJGRtF5Rz6QShBctZv1VW8nd8d_VP1Ou-6ZcB-I0_jPaMMzd9wZ3Y_fF2kvTruZdfgsr3ehkhmVN/s1600/DSC_2165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13xnL9LG3d30sfaZsTRTUl5Ei9qbvXrfg1ML8BDUXixJ3e6lHJQxCyTCgBfcgt4LDWJGRtF5Rz6QShBctZv1VW8nd8d_VP1Ou-6ZcB-I0_jPaMMzd9wZ3Y_fF2kvTruZdfgsr3ehkhmVN/s640/DSC_2165.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Beet madeleine, Ras el hanout yogurt</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AVAPqgjbZUQ/UlspTMrsytI/AAAAAAAAgUg/LDKfI-jK6sM/s1600/DSC_2167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AVAPqgjbZUQ/UlspTMrsytI/AAAAAAAAgUg/LDKfI-jK6sM/s640/DSC_2167.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Kabocha velouté</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAnQKnv5GYAqFnC046QQ0C2rkApVWJR9jKAoMBcN2pgWAos8uRZhGHfX76zSDU6kLzj6biC1aQFyRsUHHvcS5YdsSqsEmRkiUCXFkPabiFgYO9KaSuKVeeaEwoJntliACnDC-xz4iPzkMf/s1600/DSC_2169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAnQKnv5GYAqFnC046QQ0C2rkApVWJR9jKAoMBcN2pgWAos8uRZhGHfX76zSDU6kLzj6biC1aQFyRsUHHvcS5YdsSqsEmRkiUCXFkPabiFgYO9KaSuKVeeaEwoJntliACnDC-xz4iPzkMf/s640/DSC_2169.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Whey panna cotta<br />
Smoked roe, maple, lemon gel</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Really fantastic - our consensus dish of the night. The panna cotta utilized the whey byproduct of their house-made goat's milk cheese <i>(see the kale salad below)</i> - so tangy and creamy. On top, just a dribble of maple syrup and lemon to balance the salinity of the lightly smoked nama sujiko (a sure sign of Autumn).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bNHXw6osevI/UlspVAuuVxI/AAAAAAAAgUg/iD2Y7bI03iY/s1600/DSC_2168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bNHXw6osevI/UlspVAuuVxI/AAAAAAAAgUg/iD2Y7bI03iY/s640/DSC_2168.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Carrot fritter, pistachio, caramelized honey powder</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I found these strongly reminiscent of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vada_(food)">vadai</a>, a favourite treat from my childhood. Grease-free, with a crispy exterior and soft insides - biting into these piping hot fritters was a nostalgic experience.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bF0k86vsUpU/UlsppE5zVXI/AAAAAAAAgUg/RznmJUZiAM8/s1600/DSC_2171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bF0k86vsUpU/UlsppE5zVXI/AAAAAAAAgUg/RznmJUZiAM8/s640/DSC_2171.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Kale three ways<br />
House-made goat cheese, grapes, candied walnuts, verjus dressing</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QyHCQrE0oe4/UlspqDlDHxI/AAAAAAAAgUg/QqyTtSffUYo/s1600/DSC_2173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QyHCQrE0oe4/UlspqDlDHxI/AAAAAAAAgUg/QqyTtSffUYo/s640/DSC_2173.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Miyazaki A5 wagyu ribeye<br />
Horseradish, fried potatoes "a la Blumenthal", mushrooms</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Miyazaki wagyu never fails to please. Here, a thin slice of ribeye was draped over horseradish cream, sauteed mushrooms and tater tots prepared using the triple-cooking method popularized by Heston Blumenthal. Hard to fault the ingredients separately, but they didn't quite mesh - the horseradish was a touch strong and dominated the dish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-plVNcI5r5_I/UlspqD1stqI/AAAAAAAAgUg/VeRr4l6dZL4/s1600/DSC_2174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-plVNcI5r5_I/UlspqD1stqI/AAAAAAAAgUg/VeRr4l6dZL4/s640/DSC_2174.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Tortellini<br />
Sunchoke, Parmesan, onion, sunflowers</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A course from sous chef Nico Peña (formerly of <a href="http://quincerestaurant.com/">Quince</a>). <i>Very good</i> tortellini, filled with a sunchoke paste, and topped with sunflower leaves and shards of dehydrated caramelized onion. The pasta floated on a sea of sharp Parmesan espuma. This may be Southern California, but the dish was evocative of Fall in chillier climes.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvIbVM3KlZjYGxEDAbeHUbU7uutJEbIjBcc-aetSPCZGucOUrmxiahoGycbx4gwtJ-oWOR0DKhQUg4kPLfEUckbVDidCjKaJExKcFbIlTdoXR8nhNZHXh7-10shx_K6JwFY2tegLlBT1h/s1600/DSC_2176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvIbVM3KlZjYGxEDAbeHUbU7uutJEbIjBcc-aetSPCZGucOUrmxiahoGycbx4gwtJ-oWOR0DKhQUg4kPLfEUckbVDidCjKaJExKcFbIlTdoXR8nhNZHXh7-10shx_K6JwFY2tegLlBT1h/s640/DSC_2176.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Tonkotsu-braised pork cheek<br />
Butternut squash, crispy brussel sprouts</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3MpRFayY3o/Ulsp_ptOxxI/AAAAAAAAgUg/t1p0vPKZSSU/s1600/DSC_2178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3MpRFayY3o/Ulsp_ptOxxI/AAAAAAAAgUg/t1p0vPKZSSU/s640/DSC_2178.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Blu di Bufala, quince, hazelnuts</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ImzD0iNIIeU/UlsqAbix9-I/AAAAAAAAgUg/yBkJB01hTV8/s1600/DSC_2179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ImzD0iNIIeU/UlsqAbix9-I/AAAAAAAAgUg/yBkJB01hTV8/s640/DSC_2179.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Apples<br />
Burnt miso, cider, walnut</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A swath of burnt miso provided a smoky, umami base for a lone stewed apple and a quenelle of cider sorbet - a nice blend of the five basic tastes. A sprinkle of walnut streusel added crunch. Slices of raw apple, dehydrated by exposure to dry ice, had a faint but lingering effervescence - unexpected and quite pleasant.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Flk1S8_ouSk/UlsqQPjKZHI/AAAAAAAAgUg/UeLuMrEKo7Y/s1600/DSC_2181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Flk1S8_ouSk/UlsqQPjKZHI/AAAAAAAAgUg/UeLuMrEKo7Y/s640/DSC_2181.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Peanut butter and jelly</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What a surprise finding this place in an area I had generally considered a restaurant desert (one wonders how the local clientele have responded to their off-the-cuff cooking). The kitchen is full of young, energetic cooks from disparate backgrounds - their enthusiam is infectious (as we were the only people at the counter until dessert, the level of interaction was perhaps far greater than normal). This wasn't a dinner that delivered any revelations - rather, it coupled a very enjoyable meal with engaging conversation. These people are enthusiastic about what they're serving, as well as the food of their peers stateside and abroad.<br />
<b><br /><br />
</b> <a href="http://playgrounddtsa.com/">Playground</a><br />
220 East 4th Street<br />
Santa Ana, CA 92701<br />
Phone: (714) 560-4444Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5728129934119523754.post-9319130926954771762013-09-14T14:58:00.000-07:002013-09-14T23:10:20.936-07:00The Chef's Tasting at Cowboy Star - San Diego, CA<b>Dinner - Tuesday, September 10, 2013</b><br />
<br />
Theme name - check. Butcher shop - check. Dedicated steak menu - check. One could easily be forgiven for thinking that Cowboy Star is just another steakhouse - many of the indicators are there, down to the staff's Old West belt buckles. And yet, as we discovered, there is far more than meets the eye. <br />
<br />
Executive chef <a href="http://twitter.com/VictorJimenezSD">Victor Jimenez</a> and recently-hired second-in-command <a href="https://twitter.com/chfosborneknife">Chris Osborne</a> (this guy is serious - ex-<i>Townhouse</i> and ex-<a href="http://insert-food.blogspot.com/2013/08/tbl3-at-georges-california-modern-la.html">George's California Modern</a>) have been running a weekday reservations-only tasting menu at the kitchen counter - an opportunity for the kitchen to play, experiment and just cook without restraints.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b3A5v-VDN6Y/UjEMpkd8tLI/AAAAAAAAgRA/gbt_M8bUScU/s1600/DSC_2141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b3A5v-VDN6Y/UjEMpkd8tLI/AAAAAAAAgRA/gbt_M8bUScU/s640/DSC_2141.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Santa Barbara spot prawn<br />
Meyer lemon curd, yuzu kosho, local beans, pickled radish, wood sorrel</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_DPM6bQ4hQ/UjEMplfbVAI/AAAAAAAAgRA/miFPmx_oWio/s1600/DSC_2143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_DPM6bQ4hQ/UjEMplfbVAI/AAAAAAAAgRA/miFPmx_oWio/s640/DSC_2143.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Kampachi<br />
Honeyloupe, celery, ferments, fish head broth</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My dish of the night. The cool broth, augmented with coconut and cilantro, was poured tableside. Salty fermented radishes and <i>funky</i> heirloom tomatoes contrasted with the sweetness of the honeyloupe. The kampachi (beautifully cooked) was sturdy enough to stand up to these strong flavours. The beverage pairing was equally enjoyable - a honeyloupe "martini" with tequila, lemon and cilantro salt (very balanced, but really, why call it a martini at all?)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6VfGtc7pUr-mT4wrKQ-IOp8Kc_RHdZiy5O_Aw6XGAf-TIhSxvIGjF5-PqaNKoWUAr-p6HCjqeI5KLLdnGQrZ8MCrNhE0voUrrZZP3prByXyDYfzKsmXMWnpsQ0sKMY8H43YD1cknNcXwA/s1600/DSC_2144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6VfGtc7pUr-mT4wrKQ-IOp8Kc_RHdZiy5O_Aw6XGAf-TIhSxvIGjF5-PqaNKoWUAr-p6HCjqeI5KLLdnGQrZ8MCrNhE0voUrrZZP3prByXyDYfzKsmXMWnpsQ0sKMY8H43YD1cknNcXwA/s640/DSC_2144.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Baja stone crab claw<br />
Cauliflower marshmallow, brown butter powder</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUj9CLTAbyJnBa4We_41WWIQRpJZU98ZkuvbwGd_mP5eJ5QZ5BLeNwCkQfqaDZPz5mJ3jEfU3Ogig5xnp2zsVPW-RqT_uXbROhn-84HnvkEYQ2bsi3i_Y6kbWAbqMuaR2EENDUF25zCRx/s1600/DSC_2146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUj9CLTAbyJnBa4We_41WWIQRpJZU98ZkuvbwGd_mP5eJ5QZ5BLeNwCkQfqaDZPz5mJ3jEfU3Ogig5xnp2zsVPW-RqT_uXbROhn-84HnvkEYQ2bsi3i_Y6kbWAbqMuaR2EENDUF25zCRx/s640/DSC_2146.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sonoma lamb heart tartare<br />
Brioche, nasturtium, jalapeno, jamaica gelée, cabernet verjus</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nice textures in this dish - from the toasted brioche crumbs, to the silky onion-leek puree, to the crunchy cornichons, to the toothy lamb heart. Heat, herbs and salt were nicely calibrated to highlight the meat.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JGNe0Ry_imc/UjEMrSlmgWI/AAAAAAAAgRA/lzGuQxwDons/s1600/DSC_2148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JGNe0Ry_imc/UjEMrSlmgWI/AAAAAAAAgRA/lzGuQxwDons/s640/DSC_2148.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Hearts of palm, uni, scrambled duck eggs<br />Hackleback caviar, pickled leeks, bourbon barrel fish sauce</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AWbXCquxXog/UjEMrolwPLI/AAAAAAAAgRA/RRWkEneLvoQ/s1600/DSC_2154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AWbXCquxXog/UjEMrolwPLI/AAAAAAAAgRA/RRWkEneLvoQ/s640/DSC_2154.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Scottish wood pigeon<br />
Carrots, potato, pigeon liver jus</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Delicious minerality in the rare pigeon, highlighted further by the iron-rich liver jus. Together, they made the accompanying carrot purée and crudités seem preternaturally earthy. Lightness was actually provided by the paired beverage - a fizz of Plymouth gin, creamed carrot, Angostura, lemon and egg white. Cleverly done.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0fNoIoT6swA/UjEMsSolnCI/AAAAAAAAgRA/_ciBs-4g6ro/s1600/DSC_2157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0fNoIoT6swA/UjEMsSolnCI/AAAAAAAAgRA/_ciBs-4g6ro/s640/DSC_2157.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">35 day dry-aged New York strip<br />
Dehydrated onion, onion marmalade, chanterelles, port bordelaise</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-41iCmZcLMdQ/UjEMs0XmT8I/AAAAAAAAgRA/9iimAQ-OL44/s1600/DSC_2158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-41iCmZcLMdQ/UjEMs0XmT8I/AAAAAAAAgRA/9iimAQ-OL44/s640/DSC_2158.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lemon thyme panna cotta<br />
Huckleberries, crispy chicken skin, mustard green gel</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The panna cotta, made with condensed milk, was nicely set and <i>very</i> creamy. Spread over the top was a huckleberry jam, topped in turn by shards of crispy chicken skin. A nice contrast of sweet, salty and herbal (especially with the mustard green gel and a few sprigs of micro shiso), although our skin was not as crispy as we'd have liked.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t7iWDeyF-30/UjEMtTmd38I/AAAAAAAAgRI/1eTqT4Ly3Es/s1600/DSC_2162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t7iWDeyF-30/UjEMtTmd38I/AAAAAAAAgRI/1eTqT4Ly3Es/s640/DSC_2162.jpg" width="690" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Vanilla souffle<br />
Vietnamese coffee, cocoa nibs</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Each dish on the menus they've executed thus far is purportedly unique, and this is evident in some places - with a bit of refinement, a few good dishes could be <i>great</i>. But their goal here is to have fun, to try <i>new</i> things, to actively engage the diner in conversation across the pass. I accept that rationale, although I'd enjoy a deeper reflection on each course.<br />
<br />
I can also appreciate their reluctance to advertise this degustation - the burden of menu development with their current format would be overwhelming. Rather, I hope to see elements of it trickle down into their regular menu, as it has at <a href="https://twitter.com/TreyFoshee">Trey Foshee</a>'s restaurant - a trickle can become a flood. For our part, we're more than satisfied to see another local restaurant challenging itself to stretch its boundaries.<br />
<br />
<b><br />
</b> <a href="http://www.thecowboystar.com/">Cowboy Star</a><br />
640 10th Ave.<br />
San Diego, CA 92101<br />
Phone: (619) 450-5880Yaohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10745997705085559452noreply@blogger.com