龍吟 (Ryugin) - Tokyo, Japan

Dinner - Thursday, April 11, 2013

Ryugin is one of the more famous high-end Japanese restaurants in international dining circles, frequently appearing on "Best Of..." lists (whether you care for them or not). Doubtlessly, this is at least partly due to the fact that the establishment is very foreigner-friendly - reservations are easy to make from abroad, and the staff are fluent in English and French. The chef patron, Seiji Yamamoto, even has an outpost in Hong Kong.

The restaurant offers a single seasonal tasting menu before 9 pm, after which it shifts to an eclectic list of around 50 (!) à la carte items. We selected the tasting menu, hoping to discover what has made this restaurant such a darling around the world. Suffice to say, this meal completely lived up to our high expectations.

吉兆 (Kitcho) - Arashiyama, Japan

Dinner - Tuesday, April 9, 2013

West of Kyoto in Arashiyama, the last sakura petals were falling into the river by the Togetsu bridge. As we walked along the riverside, we noticed that a lone weeping cherry tree had somehow kept most of its blossoms intact - this tree marked the front garden of Kitcho, one of Kyoto's most highly-regarded restaurants.

The sun set, and the sky darkened quickly as we presented ourselves to the serious young man waiting outside the imposing front gate. At the mere mention of our name, he broke into a wide smile, gave a deep bow, and proceeded to lead us down a religiously tended gravel path - into a different world.

閑臥庵 (Kangaan) - Kyoto, Japan

Dinner - Wednesday, April 10, 2013

In the middle of the 17th century, the Buddhist monk Ingen and his disciples arrived in Japan from China, establishing their head temple at Manpuki-ji in the outskirts of southern Kyoto. Ingen brought with him what is now referred to as fucha ryori (the exact etymology of the term is ambigious) - Chinese-style ceremonial vegan meals. Today, fucha ryori can be found at temples of the Ōbaku school of Zen Buddhism - 閑臥庵 (Kangaan) is one such temple.

Unlike the more austere shojin ryori, fucha ryori makes greater use of oil and frying techniques - the influence of Chinese cuisine and the relatively short history of the style in Japan. In addition, many items are prepared to resemble meat (in appearance, taste, or both) - ostensibly because the monks could not help missing meat and fish at times.