Fresh off a two-day collaboration with Alex Stupak in New York, Jordan Kahn was back in the kitchen at his restaurant on a subdued Sunday night. Our previous visit was nearly two years ago - far too long. I seem to recall Red Medicine's original menus being much more Vietnamese-inflected (indeed, the restaurant's manifesto and my own notes would agree with this) - now, it is barely recognizable as such. Not that it matters - Kahn has developed a unique style that takes advantage of an extensive global larder, with a nod to the East and some emphasis on foraged greens.
The restaurant recently introduced an official tasting menu - 6 courses of items not available on the regular menu. We opted for this, supplementing with two a la carte dishes (denoted with asterisks in the captions). Oddly, all courses were presented family-style for the table (not my favourite approach for a degustation - greed tends to rear its ugly head!)
Leeks buried under hot coals until tender Buttermilk, leek ash oil, yuzu skins, seaside arrowgrass |
Wild brook trout roe, Koshihikari rice pudding Crushed Buddha's hand, late-season quince, crunchy sweet rice, coastal grasses and succulents |
Dungeness crab Fermented garlic paste, cooked and raw tubers, spicy leaves and herbs |
Toasted grains and cereals Caramelized mushroom pudding with black beer, Kelley's egg yolk, duck broth |
**Pan-roasted sweetbreads, wild herbs Spiced bread, chicory, prunes, smoked marrow broth** |
Lamb shoulder slow-roasted with Sequoia redwood shoots Mango, yellow roots, preserved mustard seeds, puffed yuba, wild yarrow leaves |
**Coconut bavarois Coffee, condensed milk, Thai basil, peanut croquant** |
Shaved ice of frozen birch sap, orange blossom bubbles Sour red currants, roasted almond praline, Jasmine-scented crème chiboust |
The morning after our dinner, we learnt that Jordan Kahn had been nominated for Food & Wine's "People's Best New Chef" award. Putting aside questions about eligibility (is he really new to the scene?), our meal proved that he is more than qualified. Red Medicine always seems to sail just under the radar - perhaps it is time for more recognition. To us, this is one of the most exciting places in Los Angeles, and we will not wait so long to return again.
Red Medicine
8400 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Phone: (323) 651-5500