After reading some recent posts from ChuckEats and the ulterior epicure, we realized that we had written off Georges at the Cove prematurely. While the triple-level restaurant's regular menu is relatively staid (albeit solidly executed), one can (with suitable advance notice) enjoy the full extent of the kitchen's talents - an arrangement that stemmed from ChuckEats' correspondence with Executive Chef Trey Foshee. Recently, we had the pleasure of being the first official guests to partake in this new experience, christened TBL3.
The TBL3 experience is named, aptly enough, after Table 3 - one of California Modern's prime window-side four-tops overlooking a stunning vista of the Pacific Ocean. The view over the water as the distant sun sets is breathtaking, matched only by the food directly in front of you.
|Amuse - Oyster, grilled fava bean, watermelon salad|
We started with a trio of small bites. The Miyagi oyster was served raw in it's shell, atop a bed of kelp that was redolent of the ocean. The mollusc itself was topped with a ham hock gelee, some Meyer lemon, and a sliver of watermelon radish. It was a beautiful combination - the essence of what an amuse bouche should be. Next, grilled fava beans encased in a "raviolo" of lardo - rich and salty. Finally, to reset the tastebuds, a simple Chino Farms watermelon salad, topped with dehydrated black olives and mint. Bright and fresh - Summer in a spoon.
Ricotta, Chino Farms crudité
|Local spot prawn, vegetables "à la Grecque", salted kumquat|
|Ginger-cured tomato, aonori, burrata|
|Sardine, fig, wild fennel|
|Uni, egg, corn, huitlacoche|
|Zucchini, parmesan, basil, hazelnuts|
|Smoked foie gras torchon|
Roasted nectarine, hazelnuts, honey gel, black peppercorn creme fraiche
Leeks, chanterelles, squid, sake broth
|Dry-aged roasted carrots, yogurt, parsley|
|Imperial wagyu à la ficelle|
Carrot broth, bone marrow persillade
|Yarrow-macerated Chino Farms strawberry|
|Chino Farms melon soup, lavender yogurt, caraway|
|Apricot, olive oil ganache, pistachio cake|
|Mignardises - Salted caramel, truffles, corn honeycomb|
This was one of our most minimalist meals in recent memory - a serious focus on the superb ingredients, each dish featuring fewer components and manipulation than many other restaurants in this class. It serves them well here. Trey Foshee and his team have defined San Diego's culture with TBL3, drawing in Hispanic and East Asian influences into their progression. I really enjoyed the ebb and flow of flavours through the course of our dinner, and TBL3 has proven to be one of the most thoughtful and purposeful menus we've enjoyed.
Georges California Modern
1250 Prospect St.
La Jolla, CA 92037
Phone: (858) 454-4244