Dinner - Sunday, August 24, 2014
Our third tasting menu at The Cowboy Star brought a number of changes, the most significant of which is that Chris Osborne is no longer solely in charge from start to finish. He's relinquished some control, and other cooks are now involved in developing and plating courses.
NB: Lighting, as usual, was challenging, so I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos.
Showing posts with label USA - Cali (South). Show all posts
Showing posts with label USA - Cali (South). Show all posts
Taco Maria - Costa Mesa, CA
Dinner - Friday, July 25, 2014
When Carlos Salgado decamped from Oakland's Commis some years ago, it made me sad - this was a man who was responsible for one of my favourite desserts of 2010. Then I heard he was moving to Southern California to run a food truck, and hope returned. Yet, as with many things, I never found the time. Indeed, it took four years, the opening of Salgado's brick-and-mortar location, and some pictures from Trey Foshee to prod me into action.
When Carlos Salgado decamped from Oakland's Commis some years ago, it made me sad - this was a man who was responsible for one of my favourite desserts of 2010. Then I heard he was moving to Southern California to run a food truck, and hope returned. Yet, as with many things, I never found the time. Indeed, it took four years, the opening of Salgado's brick-and-mortar location, and some pictures from Trey Foshee to prod me into action.
TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Saturday, March 29, 2014
More than seven months since our last TBL3 meal - it was time.
I find March and April to be tricky periods for eating out in Southern California - caught between a Winter that never came and (particularly this year) a Spring that is less than green. But the vegetables from Chino Farms rarely disappoint, and Trey Foshee is their whisperer.
NB: for point of comparison, our meal from exactly one year ago - March 27, 2013.
More than seven months since our last TBL3 meal - it was time.
I find March and April to be tricky periods for eating out in Southern California - caught between a Winter that never came and (particularly this year) a Spring that is less than green. But the vegetables from Chino Farms rarely disappoint, and Trey Foshee is their whisperer.
NB: for point of comparison, our meal from exactly one year ago - March 27, 2013.
alma - Los Angeles, CA
Dinner - Saturday, February 22, 2013
Since our first meal at alma last year, Ari Taymor and team have been building a steady stream of recognition. Bon Appetit, GQ and the James Beard Foundation have all come knocking on their door. The restaurant has changed as well, streamlining itself in the kitchen. Gone is the a la carte menu, replaced by two prix fixe options - one simply an abbreviated version of the other.
I had briefly corresponded with Ari after our dinner in June, but was quite surprised to receive an invitation from him earlier this month to revisit the restaurant, as he felt that the restaurant had "grown by leaps and bounds". With no plans in place for my birthday, we decided that celebrating at alma would be perfect.
NB: at the end of the night, we were refused a bill due to a kitchen oversight (see the end for further details). Ari, unfortunately, was away in NYC doing a collaboration dinner at Contra.
I had briefly corresponded with Ari after our dinner in June, but was quite surprised to receive an invitation from him earlier this month to revisit the restaurant, as he felt that the restaurant had "grown by leaps and bounds". With no plans in place for my birthday, we decided that celebrating at alma would be perfect.
NB: at the end of the night, we were refused a bill due to a kitchen oversight (see the end for further details). Ari, unfortunately, was away in NYC doing a collaboration dinner at Contra.
TRUST at Playground - Santa Ana, CA
Dinner - Saturday, October 12, 2013
Santa Ana always struck me as "that place between San Diego and Los Angeles". Indeed, I would've never thought about making a trip there if we hadn't been running a race in nearby Long Beach. Some restaurant hunting yielded a series of interesting blog posts about a restaurant called Playground in downtown Santa Ana. Further investigation showed that they were running a small dinner series called TRUST, a tasting menu at their chef's counter (interestingly, in a space separate from the main restaurant).
TRUST is billed as a refined experience, where the kitchen is able to perfect dishes from the more ad-lib menu in the main restaurant, while also focusing on better ingredients and a more cohesive narrative. As it turns out, it was still a huge mishmash, but our dinner was engaging and quite a lot of fun.
TRUST is billed as a refined experience, where the kitchen is able to perfect dishes from the more ad-lib menu in the main restaurant, while also focusing on better ingredients and a more cohesive narrative. As it turns out, it was still a huge mishmash, but our dinner was engaging and quite a lot of fun.
The Chef's Tasting at Cowboy Star - San Diego, CA
Dinner - Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Theme name - check. Butcher shop - check. Dedicated steak menu - check. One could easily be forgiven for thinking that Cowboy Star is just another steakhouse - many of the indicators are there, down to the staff's Old West belt buckles. And yet, as we discovered, there is far more than meets the eye.
Executive chef Victor Jimenez and recently-hired second-in-command Chris Osborne (this guy is serious - ex-Townhouse and ex-George's California Modern) have been running a weekday reservations-only tasting menu at the kitchen counter - an opportunity for the kitchen to play, experiment and just cook without restraints.
Theme name - check. Butcher shop - check. Dedicated steak menu - check. One could easily be forgiven for thinking that Cowboy Star is just another steakhouse - many of the indicators are there, down to the staff's Old West belt buckles. And yet, as we discovered, there is far more than meets the eye.
Executive chef Victor Jimenez and recently-hired second-in-command Chris Osborne (this guy is serious - ex-Townhouse and ex-George's California Modern) have been running a weekday reservations-only tasting menu at the kitchen counter - an opportunity for the kitchen to play, experiment and just cook without restraints.
TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Saturday, August 17, 2013
Trey Foshee's signature tasting menu must be in demand - previously available only three days a week, TBL3 is now offered Tuesdays through Saturdays. We took advantage of this expanded availability to enjoy a meal at the height of Summer. It was quite a ride - likely our best rendition of the menu to date.
Trey Foshee's signature tasting menu must be in demand - previously available only three days a week, TBL3 is now offered Tuesdays through Saturdays. We took advantage of this expanded availability to enjoy a meal at the height of Summer. It was quite a ride - likely our best rendition of the menu to date.
Zach Hunter at Delicias - Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Dinner - Sunday, August 4, 2013
Rancho Santa Fe is one of San Diego county's conservative strongholds - predominantly older (the median age is 51), rich and white. The restaurants in the area strongly reflect its demographics - an unlikely place for a pop-up by an alum of Mugaritz and Atera. Yet, this is where we found ourselves when Delicias announced a one-night guest dinner with Zach Hunter (most recently a sous chef under Matt Lightner), who is about to open his first restaurant in Austin.
Rancho Santa Fe is one of San Diego county's conservative strongholds - predominantly older (the median age is 51), rich and white. The restaurants in the area strongly reflect its demographics - an unlikely place for a pop-up by an alum of Mugaritz and Atera. Yet, this is where we found ourselves when Delicias announced a one-night guest dinner with Zach Hunter (most recently a sous chef under Matt Lightner), who is about to open his first restaurant in Austin.
alma - Los Angeles, CA
Dinner - Saturday, June 15, 2013
Let's face it - downtown LA is not the nicest part of the city (although the architecture is quite comely). Hemmed in by barren parking lots, the building that houses alma sits alone, the light from the restaurant spilling into the quiet street through its front windows - the place truly feels like an oasis (despite being a mere block away from Umamicatessen). We walked the 1.5 miles from our hotel post-haste, and arrived to a bustling dining room halfway through dinner service on a Saturday night. A "limited number of the set tasting menu", which we had reserved in advance, is offered each evening.
Let's face it - downtown LA is not the nicest part of the city (although the architecture is quite comely). Hemmed in by barren parking lots, the building that houses alma sits alone, the light from the restaurant spilling into the quiet street through its front windows - the place truly feels like an oasis (despite being a mere block away from Umamicatessen). We walked the 1.5 miles from our hotel post-haste, and arrived to a bustling dining room halfway through dinner service on a Saturday night. A "limited number of the set tasting menu", which we had reserved in advance, is offered each evening.
TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Wednesday, March 27, 2013
It's been nearly a year since my last post about the TBL3 menu at California Modern (we have enjoyed other meals there in the meantime, including an undocumented TBL3 dinner). This time, we brought three guests from out of town to share in Trey Foshee's expression of the early Spring season.
It's been nearly a year since my last post about the TBL3 menu at California Modern (we have enjoyed other meals there in the meantime, including an undocumented TBL3 dinner). This time, we brought three guests from out of town to share in Trey Foshee's expression of the early Spring season.
Red Medicine - Beverly Hills, CA
Dinner - Sunday, March 10, 2013
Fresh off a two-day collaboration with Alex Stupak in New York, Jordan Kahn was back in the kitchen at his restaurant on a subdued Sunday night. Our previous visit was nearly two years ago - far too long. I seem to recall Red Medicine's original menus being much more Vietnamese-inflected (indeed, the restaurant's manifesto and my own notes would agree with this) - now, it is barely recognizable as such. Not that it matters - Kahn has developed a unique style that takes advantage of an extensive global larder, with a nod to the East and some emphasis on foraged greens.
The restaurant recently introduced an official tasting menu - 6 courses of items not available on the regular menu. We opted for this, supplementing with two a la carte dishes (denoted with asterisks in the captions). Oddly, all courses were presented family-style for the table (not my favourite approach for a degustation - greed tends to rear its ugly head!)
Fresh off a two-day collaboration with Alex Stupak in New York, Jordan Kahn was back in the kitchen at his restaurant on a subdued Sunday night. Our previous visit was nearly two years ago - far too long. I seem to recall Red Medicine's original menus being much more Vietnamese-inflected (indeed, the restaurant's manifesto and my own notes would agree with this) - now, it is barely recognizable as such. Not that it matters - Kahn has developed a unique style that takes advantage of an extensive global larder, with a nod to the East and some emphasis on foraged greens.
The restaurant recently introduced an official tasting menu - 6 courses of items not available on the regular menu. We opted for this, supplementing with two a la carte dishes (denoted with asterisks in the captions). Oddly, all courses were presented family-style for the table (not my favourite approach for a degustation - greed tends to rear its ugly head!)
Solace and the Moonlight Lounge - Encinitas, CA
Dinner - Tuesday, January 15, 2013
Matt Gordon is known for serving high-quality comfort food (rich and hearty are apt descriptors) at his two popular establishments - Urban Solace in North Park, and Solace and the Moonlight Lounge in Encinitas (as of this writing, a third place, tentatively named "Sea and Smoke", is in the works for the Del Mar area). His concepts are very attuned to the wants of the local dining scene, and both restaurants have been tremendously successful. Although we've never been disappointed by any meal at Urban Solace, it is not generally a type of cuisine we crave, preferring lighter (one could say greener) fare. On this night, however, he demonstrated a depth we hadn't seen before, executing eight dishes that were a significant departure from his regular offerings. It was impressive.
Matt Gordon is known for serving high-quality comfort food (rich and hearty are apt descriptors) at his two popular establishments - Urban Solace in North Park, and Solace and the Moonlight Lounge in Encinitas (as of this writing, a third place, tentatively named "Sea and Smoke", is in the works for the Del Mar area). His concepts are very attuned to the wants of the local dining scene, and both restaurants have been tremendously successful. Although we've never been disappointed by any meal at Urban Solace, it is not generally a type of cuisine we crave, preferring lighter (one could say greener) fare. On this night, however, he demonstrated a depth we hadn't seen before, executing eight dishes that were a significant departure from his regular offerings. It was impressive.
Sky Room at La Valencia - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Friday, December 21, 2012
The setting is the Spanish-influenced La Valencia Hotel, a ninety-year old institution nestled along the La Jolla coastline. The chef is Luke Johnson, formerly of the locally-lauded Red Velvet Wine Bar. The occasion is... la fin du monde.
With the Sky Room scheduled to permanently shutter at the end of the year (part of an overhaul of the hotel's food and beverage department), our friend James arranged a dinner to celebrate its end, aptly scheduled on December 21. We had missed Luke Johnson at his previous post, and we were determined not to lose track of him again, come hell or high water - thus, we found ourselves in a black jewel box overlooking the glittering Christmas lights of La Jolla on a quiet evening at world's end.
The setting is the Spanish-influenced La Valencia Hotel, a ninety-year old institution nestled along the La Jolla coastline. The chef is Luke Johnson, formerly of the locally-lauded Red Velvet Wine Bar. The occasion is... la fin du monde.
With the Sky Room scheduled to permanently shutter at the end of the year (part of an overhaul of the hotel's food and beverage department), our friend James arranged a dinner to celebrate its end, aptly scheduled on December 21. We had missed Luke Johnson at his previous post, and we were determined not to lose track of him again, come hell or high water - thus, we found ourselves in a black jewel box overlooking the glittering Christmas lights of La Jolla on a quiet evening at world's end.
Intermezzo 6 - Consolation
I posted a disappointing time in Long Beach this weekend, in what should've been a very easy race. I was keeping up with the 3:15 pacer until I was waylaid by a terrible case of side stitches 3 miles from the finish line - this from someone who virtually never experiences them. In any event, I had to run-walk the remainder of the race (although I was proud of my kick in the last half-mile) and finished way off my goal time, and 3 minutes over my PR.
Such a performance did not deserve the congratulatory breakfast I had planned at the one-and-only Roscoe's Chicken & Waffles, so we settled for a consolation meal on the way home. Eat your vegetables, kids.
Such a performance did not deserve the congratulatory breakfast I had planned at the one-and-only Roscoe's Chicken & Waffles, so we settled for a consolation meal on the way home. Eat your vegetables, kids.
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| Rapini, cherry tomatoes, anchovies, chili - Pizzeria Mozza, Newport Beach, CA (2012) |
"Food for Words" at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Sunday, August 19, 2012
When Chris Kostow and Trey Foshee join forces for a meal, it's bound to be a success. Bound by a common thread (the former having worked for the latter), these two generations of chefs weaved a seamless menu at a charity dinner to benefit Words Alive, an organization that works to foster a passion for reading in the community. We were fortunate enough to attend this fundraiser, making a few new friends and enjoying some good food.
When Chris Kostow and Trey Foshee join forces for a meal, it's bound to be a success. Bound by a common thread (the former having worked for the latter), these two generations of chefs weaved a seamless menu at a charity dinner to benefit Words Alive, an organization that works to foster a passion for reading in the community. We were fortunate enough to attend this fundraiser, making a few new friends and enjoying some good food.
Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Saturday, July 14, 2012
I don't want to give the impression that TBL3 is the only worthwhile experience at Georges at the Cove. Following are pictures from a recent meal with dishes from the regular California Modern menu, as of the date above.
NB: In addition to the dishes we ordered and paid for, the kitchen sent out a number of complimentary courses - I have marked those with asterisks (*) in the captions.
I don't want to give the impression that TBL3 is the only worthwhile experience at Georges at the Cove. Following are pictures from a recent meal with dishes from the regular California Modern menu, as of the date above.
NB: In addition to the dishes we ordered and paid for, the kitchen sent out a number of complimentary courses - I have marked those with asterisks (*) in the captions.
Providence - Los Angeles, CA
Dinner - Saturday, June 23, 2012
Our most recent meal at Providence was once again with guests from out of town. For the first time, we were seated in the cellar room to the right of the main entrance. I liked it - more private than the main dining room, without the isolation of the chef's table. We'll have to remember to request this space in the future (although it is not necessarily conducive to photography due to the extreme mixed lighting in the room - thus, I apologize in advance for the photos).
The tasting menu was quite a departure from previous progressions (for the better, in my opinion). As I've given background ad nauseum about the restaurant in earlier posts, I'll get right to it and let the pictures tell the evening's story.
Our most recent meal at Providence was once again with guests from out of town. For the first time, we were seated in the cellar room to the right of the main entrance. I liked it - more private than the main dining room, without the isolation of the chef's table. We'll have to remember to request this space in the future (although it is not necessarily conducive to photography due to the extreme mixed lighting in the room - thus, I apologize in advance for the photos).
The tasting menu was quite a departure from previous progressions (for the better, in my opinion). As I've given background ad nauseum about the restaurant in earlier posts, I'll get right to it and let the pictures tell the evening's story.
Osteria Mozza - Los Angeles, CA
Dinner - Sunday, May 20, 2012
I don't think Osteria Mozza has seen a slow night since the day it opened its doors - a testament to their consistently delicious food. Deservedly, Matt Molina recently won "Best Chef: Pacific" at the 2012 JBF Awards (granted, there were many equally deserving chefs who did not win). We strolled in for dinner on a Sunday, the night of the partial eclipse in Southern California. Perhaps there was that magic in the air - the restaurant was radiating exuberance. Nancy Silverton herself was front-and-center, putting the finishing touches on dishes in the Mozzarella Bar. But we were here to taste the dishes of the man behind the scenes, and we were not disappointed.
I don't think Osteria Mozza has seen a slow night since the day it opened its doors - a testament to their consistently delicious food. Deservedly, Matt Molina recently won "Best Chef: Pacific" at the 2012 JBF Awards (granted, there were many equally deserving chefs who did not win). We strolled in for dinner on a Sunday, the night of the partial eclipse in Southern California. Perhaps there was that magic in the air - the restaurant was radiating exuberance. Nancy Silverton herself was front-and-center, putting the finishing touches on dishes in the Mozzarella Bar. But we were here to taste the dishes of the man behind the scenes, and we were not disappointed.
TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Wednesday, April 18, 2012
I'll say it first - there's no better place to enjoy a birthday meal in San Diego than Trey Foshee's dining room. As it turns out, the third time was the charm for TBL3. Not to say that our last two meals were sub-par - far from it. In fact, those meals were already heads and shoulders above anything in the area, but our dinner this evening reflected his team's continuing maturation through the process of conceptualizing these lengthy menus.
We made reservations for a 7 pm seating - in time to catch the sunset, and it was a glorious evening. Of course, April Johnson was constantly at hand to ensure everything ran smoothly, and her team (particularly Dan, our server) paced us nicely.
We made reservations for a 7 pm seating - in time to catch the sunset, and it was a glorious evening. Of course, April Johnson was constantly at hand to ensure everything ran smoothly, and her team (particularly Dan, our server) paced us nicely.
Javier Plascencia at El Take It Easy - San Diego, CA
Dinner - Monday, March 5, 2012
Javier Plascencia is a man in the spotlight - the chef from Tijuana (who actually attended culinary school right here in San Diego) has garnered numerous accolades in the past year - from a feature on "Mexico, One Plate at a Time", to being the subject of an article in the New York Times and a profile by one of my favourite magazines, the New Yorker. I'd only heard about Plascencia last February, when a post by Street Gourmet LA put him on my radar. His food looked fantastic, and since then, I've been actively looking for an opportunity to try it without crossing the border (visa issues ad nauseum).
Leave it to Jay Porter, outspoken owner of The Linkery and El Take It Easy, to bring Plascencia here for a pop-up dinner at the latter establishment. While I've never found the food at Jay's restaurants particularly compelling, I deeply respect his love of our region's product, and his efforts to promote true farm-to-table cuisine in San Diego. So, perhaps it is unsurprising that we would see this union of the two men, given their common goal of highlighting the local bounty.
Javier Plascencia is a man in the spotlight - the chef from Tijuana (who actually attended culinary school right here in San Diego) has garnered numerous accolades in the past year - from a feature on "Mexico, One Plate at a Time", to being the subject of an article in the New York Times and a profile by one of my favourite magazines, the New Yorker. I'd only heard about Plascencia last February, when a post by Street Gourmet LA put him on my radar. His food looked fantastic, and since then, I've been actively looking for an opportunity to try it without crossing the border (visa issues ad nauseum).
Leave it to Jay Porter, outspoken owner of The Linkery and El Take It Easy, to bring Plascencia here for a pop-up dinner at the latter establishment. While I've never found the food at Jay's restaurants particularly compelling, I deeply respect his love of our region's product, and his efforts to promote true farm-to-table cuisine in San Diego. So, perhaps it is unsurprising that we would see this union of the two men, given their common goal of highlighting the local bounty.
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