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Showing posts with label Degustation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Degustation. Show all posts
Ginza Okamoto - Tokyo, Japan
Dinner - Monday, December 22, 2014
Hidetsugu Okamoto opened his eponymous restaurant in the southern end of Ginza after serving as the right hand to Jun Yukimura at the 3-star Azabu Yukimura. Four chefs, eleven seats - a full-house this night. Our reservation was the last of the evening, and the kitchen was in full swing when we arrived. Okamoto is front and center, a blur of movement, talking little. There is only a single menu served - every diner is equal. A hot towel delivered, sake poured, and the meal begins.
Hidetsugu Okamoto opened his eponymous restaurant in the southern end of Ginza after serving as the right hand to Jun Yukimura at the 3-star Azabu Yukimura. Four chefs, eleven seats - a full-house this night. Our reservation was the last of the evening, and the kitchen was in full swing when we arrived. Okamoto is front and center, a blur of movement, talking little. There is only a single menu served - every diner is equal. A hot towel delivered, sake poured, and the meal begins.
Quique Dacosta - Dénia, Spain
Lunch - Wednesday, October 8, 2014
Quique Dacosta (the man) exudes an air of derring-do. He's a rakish charmer, a raconteur. But that concentration - his thoughtful, serious side surfaces quickly and we are plunged deep into a discussion about his cuisine and its place in the web of things.
Quique Dacosta (the restaurant) is a reflection of its patron. Four hours from Barcelona in the holiday town of Dénia, it is a disarming space - modern yet rooted in history (it was previously owned by his father-in-law). The servers are relaxed, and it is their consummate professionalism that sets diners at ease (the GM, Didier, gets a special mention for being a true credit to his profession).
Our party of five arrived at the restaurant for a 1.30pm appointment - the first of the day. The shaded patio was inviting in the heat of the Spanish afternoon - our meal, the "Tomorrowland" menu, began there.
Quique Dacosta (the restaurant) is a reflection of its patron. Four hours from Barcelona in the holiday town of Dénia, it is a disarming space - modern yet rooted in history (it was previously owned by his father-in-law). The servers are relaxed, and it is their consummate professionalism that sets diners at ease (the GM, Didier, gets a special mention for being a true credit to his profession).
Our party of five arrived at the restaurant for a 1.30pm appointment - the first of the day. The shaded patio was inviting in the heat of the Spanish afternoon - our meal, the "Tomorrowland" menu, began there.
Assinatura - Lisbon, Portugal
Dinner - Friday, October 3, 2014
By and large, the food we ate in Lisbon was cheap, but not particularly great. For example, a meal at the lauded Cervejaria Ramiro was only ~120 Euros (for 5!) and certainly better than anything we might get in San Diego, but it paled in comparison to seafood spots in Barcelona (is this just a cultural preference on our part?)
Our luck improved on our last night, with dinner at the fancifully decorated Restaurante Assinatura. I happened across it as a one-time mention on Chowhound, and it is evidently not on the Michelin Man's radar - too bad for them. Melodramatic waiter aside (and he was charming in his own peculiar way), this was a very enjoyable dinner.
Our luck improved on our last night, with dinner at the fancifully decorated Restaurante Assinatura. I happened across it as a one-time mention on Chowhound, and it is evidently not on the Michelin Man's radar - too bad for them. Melodramatic waiter aside (and he was charming in his own peculiar way), this was a very enjoyable dinner.
The Ledbury - London, UK
Dinner - Monday, September 29, 2014
Over a decade since I was last in London, and only one night (a Monday, at that) to take in its burgeoning dining scene. I have been keeping my eye on The Ledbury for some time - chef-patron Brett Graham has a cooking voice that resonates with me. We had to visit. We made the short trek from our hotel by Paddington station to sleepy Notting Hill in the dark of a chilly Autumn night - what we ate certainly warmed our cockles.
Over a decade since I was last in London, and only one night (a Monday, at that) to take in its burgeoning dining scene. I have been keeping my eye on The Ledbury for some time - chef-patron Brett Graham has a cooking voice that resonates with me. We had to visit. We made the short trek from our hotel by Paddington station to sleepy Notting Hill in the dark of a chilly Autumn night - what we ate certainly warmed our cockles.
The Chef's Tasting at Cowboy Star - San Diego, CA
Dinner - Sunday, August 24, 2014
Our third tasting menu at The Cowboy Star brought a number of changes, the most significant of which is that Chris Osborne is no longer solely in charge from start to finish. He's relinquished some control, and other cooks are now involved in developing and plating courses.
NB: Lighting, as usual, was challenging, so I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos.
Our third tasting menu at The Cowboy Star brought a number of changes, the most significant of which is that Chris Osborne is no longer solely in charge from start to finish. He's relinquished some control, and other cooks are now involved in developing and plating courses.
NB: Lighting, as usual, was challenging, so I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos.
Central - Lima, Peru
Dinner - Friday, May 9, 2014
Rarely, a meal changes the way you think about food. For me, the most recent place that has succeeded in this regard was Saison (ca. 2011). And now, Virgilio Martinez has done it. This was a truly fantastic meal - every aspect carefully considered, every bite delicious. Central was, far and away, the best meal we had in Peru.
Like many of the modern high-end kitchens, Central has a research team - here, it is the Mater Iniciativa (read their blog/field notes here), devoted to rediscovering the ingredients of Peru and "linking the cultural and biological diversity of Peru with the culinary experience". It is the Mater's discoveries that drive Martinez's sophisticated, thoughtful cuisine. Tonight, the theme of our menu was Elevations - each dish a slice of Peru's many ecosystems, spanning the waters of the Pacific coast to the snow-capped Andean peaks.
Rarely, a meal changes the way you think about food. For me, the most recent place that has succeeded in this regard was Saison (ca. 2011). And now, Virgilio Martinez has done it. This was a truly fantastic meal - every aspect carefully considered, every bite delicious. Central was, far and away, the best meal we had in Peru.
Like many of the modern high-end kitchens, Central has a research team - here, it is the Mater Iniciativa (read their blog/field notes here), devoted to rediscovering the ingredients of Peru and "linking the cultural and biological diversity of Peru with the culinary experience". It is the Mater's discoveries that drive Martinez's sophisticated, thoughtful cuisine. Tonight, the theme of our menu was Elevations - each dish a slice of Peru's many ecosystems, spanning the waters of the Pacific coast to the snow-capped Andean peaks.
Virú at Astrid & Gastón - Lima, Peru
Lunch - Saturday, May 10, 2014
2014 marks the twentieth anniversary of Astrid & Gastón - the first child in what is now a globe-spanning empire. The restaurant, formerly situtated in Lima's Miraflores neighborhood, recently completed a move to the Casa Moreyra, a grand 300-year old house in the neighbouring (and equally upscale) San Isidro district.
To mark this new beginning, Virú is the theme of the restaurant's first tasting menu at Casa Moreyra - a journey through the five macroclimates of Peru in 26 courses. Gastón Acurio was overseeing the kitchen on this day - I gather this is fairly rare, and primarily due to the temporary absence of Diego Munoz.
To mark this new beginning, Virú is the theme of the restaurant's first tasting menu at Casa Moreyra - a journey through the five macroclimates of Peru in 26 courses. Gastón Acurio was overseeing the kitchen on this day - I gather this is fairly rare, and primarily due to the temporary absence of Diego Munoz.
TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Saturday, March 29, 2014
More than seven months since our last TBL3 meal - it was time.
I find March and April to be tricky periods for eating out in Southern California - caught between a Winter that never came and (particularly this year) a Spring that is less than green. But the vegetables from Chino Farms rarely disappoint, and Trey Foshee is their whisperer.
NB: for point of comparison, our meal from exactly one year ago - March 27, 2013.
More than seven months since our last TBL3 meal - it was time.
I find March and April to be tricky periods for eating out in Southern California - caught between a Winter that never came and (particularly this year) a Spring that is less than green. But the vegetables from Chino Farms rarely disappoint, and Trey Foshee is their whisperer.
NB: for point of comparison, our meal from exactly one year ago - March 27, 2013.
Saison - San Francisco, CA
Dinner - Saturday, March 1, 2014
Saison's new digs are quite a sight to behold. The space is lush and inviting, with dark wood tables spaced generously like at an old tippling room. Polished copper pans and walls of stainless steel are juxtaposed against furs and stacked cords of wood - at once refined and rustic.
This was our first visit to Saison in over a year, and also our first time at the new location (we had planned a visit in February 2013, but teething problems closed the restaurant at the last moment - we went to Coi instead). The complimentary pours of Krug remain, as does the two-tier tasting menu - tonight, we opted for the lengthier "Discovery" menu.
This was our first visit to Saison in over a year, and also our first time at the new location (we had planned a visit in February 2013, but teething problems closed the restaurant at the last moment - we went to Coi instead). The complimentary pours of Krug remain, as does the two-tier tasting menu - tonight, we opted for the lengthier "Discovery" menu.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Thursday, February 27, 2014
Four meals in 13 months - that's saying something. And the crew at Aubergine keeps picking up awards - indeed, during our most recent visit in November, Justin Cogley was in Germany receiving a Grand Chef award from Relais & Châteaux. I also said at that time that I did not foresee a return in the first half of 2014 - I'm very glad I was wrong.
Four meals in 13 months - that's saying something. And the crew at Aubergine keeps picking up awards - indeed, during our most recent visit in November, Justin Cogley was in Germany receiving a Grand Chef award from Relais & Châteaux. I also said at that time that I did not foresee a return in the first half of 2014 - I'm very glad I was wrong.
alma - Los Angeles, CA
Dinner - Saturday, February 22, 2013
Since our first meal at alma last year, Ari Taymor and team have been building a steady stream of recognition. Bon Appetit, GQ and the James Beard Foundation have all come knocking on their door. The restaurant has changed as well, streamlining itself in the kitchen. Gone is the a la carte menu, replaced by two prix fixe options - one simply an abbreviated version of the other.
I had briefly corresponded with Ari after our dinner in June, but was quite surprised to receive an invitation from him earlier this month to revisit the restaurant, as he felt that the restaurant had "grown by leaps and bounds". With no plans in place for my birthday, we decided that celebrating at alma would be perfect.
NB: at the end of the night, we were refused a bill due to a kitchen oversight (see the end for further details). Ari, unfortunately, was away in NYC doing a collaboration dinner at Contra.
I had briefly corresponded with Ari after our dinner in June, but was quite surprised to receive an invitation from him earlier this month to revisit the restaurant, as he felt that the restaurant had "grown by leaps and bounds". With no plans in place for my birthday, we decided that celebrating at alma would be perfect.
NB: at the end of the night, we were refused a bill due to a kitchen oversight (see the end for further details). Ari, unfortunately, was away in NYC doing a collaboration dinner at Contra.
Restaurant Eugene - Atlanta, GA
Dinner - Monday, December 30, 2013
Linton Hopkins was named the James Beard "Best Chef - Southeast" in 2012, and Restaurant Eugene is the flagship of his restaurant family (although Holeman & Finch arguably garners more press for its burger). The style here is very classical - broadly speaking, traditional French technique with Southern ingredients. Arguably not the sort of place we typically gravitate towards, but this time, the lack of information about the food here piqued our curiosity.
Linton Hopkins was named the James Beard "Best Chef - Southeast" in 2012, and Restaurant Eugene is the flagship of his restaurant family (although Holeman & Finch arguably garners more press for its burger). The style here is very classical - broadly speaking, traditional French technique with Southern ingredients. Arguably not the sort of place we typically gravitate towards, but this time, the lack of information about the food here piqued our curiosity.
McCrady's - Charleston, SC
Dinner - Friday, December 27, 2013
Before Husk propelled Sean Brock into the stratosphere, there was McCrady's. When it first opened, the restaurant had a fairly strong molecular gastronomy bent, but this has been significantly dialed back over the years, as Brock's cuisine has evolved.
While not as tethered to the South as Husk, there is still a strong sense of place at McCrady's. This is first expressed in the 18th century building (older even than Husk's space) that the restaurant occupies - a beautiful wood-and-brick structure that is warm and inviting. The menu, too, emphasizes regional ingredients, although with an appropriately playful spin in many dishes.
While not as tethered to the South as Husk, there is still a strong sense of place at McCrady's. This is first expressed in the 18th century building (older even than Husk's space) that the restaurant occupies - a beautiful wood-and-brick structure that is warm and inviting. The menu, too, emphasizes regional ingredients, although with an appropriately playful spin in many dishes.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Sunday, November 17, 2013
When traveling, it's unusual for us to visit an out-of-town restaurant more than once within a short time span - there're just so many places to try. Yet, this is our third meal at Aubergine this year - a testament to the house that Justin Cogley and Ron Mendoza have built. On this night, we shared our meal with two others who had each come long distances to dine here. Over four hours, we ate our way through 25 courses - an evening that will not soon be forgotten.
When traveling, it's unusual for us to visit an out-of-town restaurant more than once within a short time span - there're just so many places to try. Yet, this is our third meal at Aubergine this year - a testament to the house that Justin Cogley and Ron Mendoza have built. On this night, we shared our meal with two others who had each come long distances to dine here. Over four hours, we ate our way through 25 courses - an evening that will not soon be forgotten.
TRUST at Playground - Santa Ana, CA
Dinner - Saturday, October 12, 2013
Santa Ana always struck me as "that place between San Diego and Los Angeles". Indeed, I would've never thought about making a trip there if we hadn't been running a race in nearby Long Beach. Some restaurant hunting yielded a series of interesting blog posts about a restaurant called Playground in downtown Santa Ana. Further investigation showed that they were running a small dinner series called TRUST, a tasting menu at their chef's counter (interestingly, in a space separate from the main restaurant).
TRUST is billed as a refined experience, where the kitchen is able to perfect dishes from the more ad-lib menu in the main restaurant, while also focusing on better ingredients and a more cohesive narrative. As it turns out, it was still a huge mishmash, but our dinner was engaging and quite a lot of fun.
TRUST is billed as a refined experience, where the kitchen is able to perfect dishes from the more ad-lib menu in the main restaurant, while also focusing on better ingredients and a more cohesive narrative. As it turns out, it was still a huge mishmash, but our dinner was engaging and quite a lot of fun.
The Chef's Tasting at Cowboy Star - San Diego, CA
Dinner - Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Theme name - check. Butcher shop - check. Dedicated steak menu - check. One could easily be forgiven for thinking that Cowboy Star is just another steakhouse - many of the indicators are there, down to the staff's Old West belt buckles. And yet, as we discovered, there is far more than meets the eye.
Executive chef Victor Jimenez and recently-hired second-in-command Chris Osborne (this guy is serious - ex-Townhouse and ex-George's California Modern) have been running a weekday reservations-only tasting menu at the kitchen counter - an opportunity for the kitchen to play, experiment and just cook without restraints.
Theme name - check. Butcher shop - check. Dedicated steak menu - check. One could easily be forgiven for thinking that Cowboy Star is just another steakhouse - many of the indicators are there, down to the staff's Old West belt buckles. And yet, as we discovered, there is far more than meets the eye.
Executive chef Victor Jimenez and recently-hired second-in-command Chris Osborne (this guy is serious - ex-Townhouse and ex-George's California Modern) have been running a weekday reservations-only tasting menu at the kitchen counter - an opportunity for the kitchen to play, experiment and just cook without restraints.
Aubergine - Carmel, CA
Dinner - Saturday, August 31, 2013
So much can change in six months. Since our meal in February, Justin Cogley (deservedly and expectedly) received one of Food & Wine's Best New Chef awards, putting Aubergine on the map for a whole new segment of diners. Naturally, national recognition brings increased pressure, but the entire restaurant seems to be holding its own, and more.
We had planned a drive along Highway 1 for the Labor Day weekend, and a good meal is always the perfect way to end a long day on the road - what follows is an extended version of Aubergine's tasting menu.
So much can change in six months. Since our meal in February, Justin Cogley (deservedly and expectedly) received one of Food & Wine's Best New Chef awards, putting Aubergine on the map for a whole new segment of diners. Naturally, national recognition brings increased pressure, but the entire restaurant seems to be holding its own, and more.
We had planned a drive along Highway 1 for the Labor Day weekend, and a good meal is always the perfect way to end a long day on the road - what follows is an extended version of Aubergine's tasting menu.
TBL3 at Georges California Modern - La Jolla, CA
Dinner - Saturday, August 17, 2013
Trey Foshee's signature tasting menu must be in demand - previously available only three days a week, TBL3 is now offered Tuesdays through Saturdays. We took advantage of this expanded availability to enjoy a meal at the height of Summer. It was quite a ride - likely our best rendition of the menu to date.
Trey Foshee's signature tasting menu must be in demand - previously available only three days a week, TBL3 is now offered Tuesdays through Saturdays. We took advantage of this expanded availability to enjoy a meal at the height of Summer. It was quite a ride - likely our best rendition of the menu to date.
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